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yeah thats my point, if it comes with everything you need to make it work then there shouldnt be an issue. the HKS/Greddy kits come with everything you need. Apparently his magical metal fusing intake kit did come with its own hoses for him to use it so i dont see an issue there either.

EEE PC and Mines ECU back up for sale.

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doesnt look like it will use the stock hoses dude

if its coming from the centre then ive got some bad news for you - its going to keep whistling. if its anything behind there then the whole dash needs to come out to clean it out.

yeah mate, if i had that gauge in my pocket it would make me run faster. im guessing its leaves or just general crap stuck in your A/C system. which vent is it coming from? left, right or centre?

but it didnt use the stock hoses did it?

does it only come on during certain songs? id say it only likes some of your songs and wont whistle along through all of them.

i cant find that anywhere, even the apexi ones arent direct replacement.

there was nothing wrong with the gear. the item was never going to fit no matter what. its a direct replacement in terms of where it sits and the stock air filter location. i'd like to see a steel intake pipe that still uses the stock return BOV and breather piping.

just thought i'd raise this question, but how did you expect a STEEL intake pipe to be a direct swap when the BOV and breather hose return pipes are also made out of metal? how did you expect them to join? or did he advertise that it was made of magical fusing metal also? i mean, you must have looked at the photo and said - hang on, that wont work no matter what, even if the fittings WERE in the right spot.

they're pretty easy to get out, had to do it when getting the car resprayed.. you just need the strongest, thinnest metal wire you can find and strong arms/hands. it would be easier to get a wrecker though.

they arent a direct replacement for either the r33 or the r34. they're meant for you to make custom return lines from the BOV and the breathers. i like it because it means getting rid of the crappy metal piping for these which looks ugly. also means i can plumb in a catch can without having to plumb the return there. AND i can install a BOV somewhere else in the cooler piping and have it plumb back without having to use the standard piping. bottom line is its not for you if you are afraid of a little customising and cleaning up your engine bay.

when i was stripping my housing i soaked it in WD40 for a few hours and it did nothing. so much carbon gets stuck between there. i had to use a big-ass rubber mallet with the cartridge clamped to a vice while hitting the flange face to turn it - it was dodgy as, and i didnt need the cartridge. i reckon you freeze it somehow, either dry ice or a few hours in the freezer (ghetto) to shrink the metal a bit to make it easier. bad thing is everything inside freezes and you could really mess with your bearing clearances (im a backyard mechanic, not a licenced one).

i remember seeing these for sale on ns.com by one of the traders, i cant remember who it was though.

that would be the best way to do it. even weld a hose onto the turbo drain pipe and T it off there. you could also get a T piece made and connect that to the rubber piece that goes from the turbo drain to the block.

they did the friday night drags in the 07/08 summer. it sucks that they didnt do it this year, you get loads more runs as its not so busy on either wed or fri. from 4-6 runs normally to 9-10 runs was awesome.

try this: CLICKY

the stock o2 sensor might be messing with the afr's. what happens is you pull out the stock narrowband to fit the wideband, then tune it while the narrowband isnt reading anything. then you put the stock narrowband back in and it messes everything up again. my mate had the same problem with his pfc. try unplugging the stocky completely and see where that gets you. your other alternative is to get your tuner to tune the car with the wideband that hooks into the rear of the exhaust and leave your stock narrowband in.

ofcorse mate, just make sure you keep out of the pics. jk!! i might be in depending on if i get my car back today or tomorrow morning from the engine builder - i'll need to get some run-in k's on it!

i wouldnt solder onto the board, re-sale of it would be less if it was tampered with i think. is there a PC part out there that will work for now?

is the expansion loom an extra item?

im going to be installing my vipec tonight so i can get it in before my engine is started. ive got a few questions. i want to hook up my wideband to it, where do i get the expansion loom from? how much are they? i read in the vipec manual that you had to use a 1mm restrictor for the map sensor, has anyone done this? i was doing this with my greddy 3bar map sensor to keep the boost readings steady and it worked really well (except i had to use a 0.3mm restrictor). which wires does the IAT sensor connect to?

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