SECURITY

wow.. free stuff thread has been up all day and Steve-O hasnt replied? haha

if its the one that goes from the emanage to the PC you need a USB cable that goes from a 'type A' to a 'type B' - Type B is the square connector that goes into the emanage.

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read the rules and you wont look like a dickhead next time.

ill buy everything off you right now posted to me for 5 bux.

2.4m x 0.4 x 0.4 weighs around 25-30kg all up.

Price drop: $200!!!

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where do i go about getting the vi-pec board for my r33 gtst? ive spoken to 1 supplier in syd but im getting prices at this stage.

im thinking about going with the Nitto oil pump my engine builder recommended. he says the way they were tested for strength was they were put up against other oil pumps of the same drive type (std/n1 etc) and revved to 14,000rpm. he told me the other ones barely made it past 8-9000rpm where the Nitto was going strong after its time at 14,000rpm. he also showed me a Nitto crank shaft which weighed at least 1.5 times more than a standard one and is intended to rev to 9000rpm. it was a chunky piece of kit though.

Mines ECU is on hold - pending payment. EEE PC is also pending payment.

gauges sold

it will cost ~60 for each bolt a mobile stud remover to replace, try find someone who will do it with the manifold on.

not too sure which surface has worn and my car is auto.

i had the same problem and turned out to be the AFM showing its age. when i switch it to MAP sensor (bypassing AFM) it works fine. a cheap fix that MIGHT work is to re-solder the pins on the AFM (when you take the square panel off the top of the afm it exposes them) and see if it helps. if it does nothing then try swapping for a known working one then go from there.

the motor had around 12,000km's since the rebuild with all 3 oil changes from run in completed at the right intervals. i.e. mineral oil @ 0km (i was told), 500km and 1000km, then motul turbolight 8100 at 1500km then @ every 3000km interval thereafter. it wasnt my job to check if the oil pump was shagged before it was installed so i dont know if it was good to go, if it wasnt im sure i would've been notified. i didnt have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge so i dont know what it was like, and i cant go off the standard one because it stopped being reliable around a year ago. when i picked up the car i was told by the owner of the business that "oil pressure was off the charts". i dont have any other info for you.

i THINK the r33 and r32 share the same gearbox. either way it should be ok on a standard rb25. r33 autos go for around $300 in good nic/low k's so if it breaks it shouldnt be too much of a hassle to fix.

- get my motor sorted - fit my new plenum, injectors and my ebc - tune - sort out my rear suspension + tyres - new front bar + respray the car - FINALLY hit some track days - get into the 11sec 1/4 bracket

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not his fault that the o-ring on the pick-up wasnt assembled properly? i'll guess i'll just want till he opens up for the new year and see how we go. he seems like a reasonable guy, the engineer reports states a critical fault that would have come up in the build stage so we'll just have to talk it out and see where it takes us.

i just thought i'd add that when the car initially left the tuners, he even said himself that it was running a bit LEAN. on my way home i did some touch ups which saw the car on ~14.7 on idle (factory ecu settings as i run an emanage ultimate), and around 11.7-12.1 on low boost levels and around 14.5-14.7 (std ecu settings) on cruise. it wasnt the best tune but i wasnt taking it over 4000rpm anyway. later on after the run-in period i got into trialing software which cleaned up my afr's more - which i have data logs of. my AFR's were never dangerously rich or lean at any point other than the drive home from the tuners. and if it was lean after turning some boost up, it was for 1 power run to input into the software then afr's were sweet again.

for all those that have asked, the ultimate comes with ALL harnesses you will need to wire it in. all instructions are included.

nah no dent in the sump mate.

it just didnt occure to me that it was an oil problem, i even swung past the engine builder's workshop while i was in the area teling him that i was really happy with the motor etc etc - i figured that all rb's had noisy lifters and thats what it was, just the lifters playing up. but as you go along you start to piece things together, unfortunately for me it happened a bit too late.