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anyone know an engineer that will work on modified engines? the ones i have contacted will not touch modified engines!

as the topic states, im in sydney. all pm's replied

just so happens that i have a spare lol. pm sent.

RB30: - Full set of Federal and Mogul cast pistons only, no rings - better than stock rb30e pistons. to fit standard bore size - use standard rb30e piston rings. $200 - Standard Rods + Pistons + Rings in good condition. $50 RB25: - Air con compressor $150 - Short block - has pistons, crank and GTR rods bolted on only - good for rebuild: $300 RB26: - Standard pistons, came off R32 GTR with 89,000km - good condition $100 R33 GTST: - Custom turboback exhaust with changeable diff-back section to stock - mild steel - 2yrs old $250 RANDOM: 5x 14x8 + 1x 14x9 wheels (i think) - bought these and they didnt fit on my skyline. $200 Autogauge gauges - water temp, oil temp + oil pressure in bracket to fit into DIN pocket. comes with all senders and sandwich plates needed - used $80 I'll update the thread when i find more stuff in my garage. Contact via PM.

Guys, Following up off this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cr...ip-t246995.html I need an engineer to go inspect my engine and give me a clear report as to its failure. The engine has seen low km's and fairly easy driving (compared to what it was built for) and is now blaming the main-bearing failure/crank whip on detonation and lean mixtures which is complete BS. He'll need to be able to go to the mechanics shop in castle hill so if he is local it would be loads of help. Thanks guys, Joe

Ive found that it works best when you do a voltage clamp vs. throttle position. nothing else has worked properly for me. What you can do is do a map trace and when you feel 'boost cut' change your values in the Airflow Output Map (where you're putting your voltage clamp data) to a lower value to bypass it. the map trace will tell you which values you're reaching 'boost cut' on so all you need to do is change the values in the highlighted boxes. the WORST issue i had was cold start with the MAP sensor running. it would run like an absolute pig. i ended up buying an EEE PC just to have in the car with only the emanage software installed so i can adjust the cold start voltage when i turn it on in the mornings! The problem is on cold start the AFM voltage is around 1.70 on idle, then when it gets to operating temp it sits at ~ 1.06. the 1.06v on cold start makes it run like crap and VERY lean. I even tried playing with the temp adjustment map to add fuel but it only worked to a maximum of +20%, i needed at least 40% adjustment for the afr's to be anywhere near the right value to idle properly. Trent, do you have a fix for this?

Just got off the phone with the engine builder. He says that it was a mixture of detonation and over-revving which i know is complete bullshit. does anyone know of an engineer i can send out to go inspect the parts?

can we get a pic of this mod connected?

ok well this is looking like its going my way so far. so the noise i had from 2300-3000rpm could have been my main bearing rattling?

all i know is what he told me let go - which is the main bearings only starting from the thrust bearing outwards which indicates whip. apparently nothing else went, even the big end bearings were fine. also, my lifters were making LOTS of noise when it let go which is probably due to the main bearings.

fuel works fine.

which is why i think it sounds weird that i'd get crank whip from that.

check your wiring, also check the gauge's pressure sensor. VDO do good reliable gauges. good quality, good price and there is a shop in marrickville in sydney last i saw.

good info there. thanks for helping out mate.

My motor is back at the engine builder due to some apparent whip in the crank. Its an RB30 that got the full treatment. strengthened rods + arp bolts, forgies etc. He also stated that he had to send the crank/block off to get checked out as it was supplied by me. When i got the motor back from the builder it had a bearing/lifter noise from 2500-3000rpm on acceleration, we couldnt work out what it was. I asked the builder and he said that it was probably the VCT solenoid as it was blocked off and said to send the car back if it got worse. I have exact details and dates as I write EVERYTHING in my contract diary (also because these things are recognised in court - im a builder, covering my ass is my job). I didnt drive the car hard, only small squirts on the highway to do some data logging to tidy up the tune. The motor then suddenly let go while giving it a squirt on the highway. afr's were between 11.5-12 (i have a very accurate PLX wideband+gauge which i annoyingly always keep my eyes on). It sounds like the 2500-3000rpm noise i had but all the way through the rev range. The engine builder now has told me that there is whip in the crank which is caused by over-revving, mind you the rev limit is set to 7300rpm and was reached around 8-10 times during the 8 months ive had it on the road, i have also only travelled around 8,000km's since the build with 5 oil changes in total which includes the 3 run-in oil changes. The apparent parts that were damaged were the main bearings only, starting from the thrust bearing outward. I've was warned about this engine builder AFTER i had dropped the car off to be rebuilt and work had commenced which is making me wonder if he is trying to shift blame over a dodgy build. Can anyone give me some ideas on how whip develops? I plan to get the engine off to an engineer after his assessment then contact the proper authorities. Can someone recommend an engineer in Sydney who will thoroughly inspect the parts and give a report? If its my fault for whatever reason I have absolutely no problem in getting it fixed at my expense but I would like this to be confirmed by an independent engineer so I have proof if it has to go through fair trading/ACCC/court etc as I know i did nothing a regular person would do with a new motor. I just dont like getting dicked. Cheers, Joe

this is what i was thinking when i initially put my china split dump on. i put my mind at ease by putting two dump pipe gaskets to space it off a bit. works well and ive never had a boost problem. i dont have a boost controller (im running straight off the wastegate) and it runs 15psi straight to redline.

little update: pulled 220.4kw on the dyno half way through the tune when we started to hear some crappy noises from the car. Guilt-Toy and QUICKY can verify this. also pulled a 13.4 @ 106.9mph with a bodgy tune.

yeah, its just about building a stronger motor. guys running nitrous on stock motors dont like to activate it before 3500-4000rpm as the rods wont take it, with beefier rods you will be able to cope with more torque at lower rpms, other than that you wont really get a performance gain.

you're allowed to overtake on the left if there is someone in your lane turning right. he could just lie and say that you were turning right then changed your mind and went straight at the last second. just hope that he doesnt know his road rules, especially if you dont have a witness.

you want the BOOST CONTROLLER lines as close to the turbo outlet as possible. you want the boost controller to pick up pressure as soon as possible. BOOST GAUGE needs to be @ at the intake manifold to read actual pressure/vac passing through the motor. EBC's usually have 2 separate feeds. 1 for the solenoid (controller) and one for the unit to read actual pressure.

i spent a farken STRAIGHT 30mins on this and got 50.2 metres after buckling at the hurdle lol

300kw is exactly like 200kw on the street - you cant use it anywhere responsibly. im not being anti-remap. just saying you guys should keep your options open because i havent heard any skyline owner ever say 'i will not mod my car anymore'.

200kw is fun for around 20mins. it just starts to feel really bland. i was aiming for 200kw. made it. now im aiming for 300... then probably 400 lol. just make sure your gear suits your goals. remap is perfect to use with an emanage/fcon etc etc later on i guess.

The price isnt what is being disputed mate, its an average price for a tune. Just saying that you dont have other things as i mentioned above that go with it in the $500. These things matter as your plans for the car change - and often do. In total, ive had 3 setup changes. first it was the usual exhaust/cooler which i used an SAFC to tune with. Then i went bigger turbo which i used a remap to look after. Now ive got a new plenum 740cc injectors, 3.5" exhaust getting the full track/drag setup with around 20psi, launch control, map sensor, ign/inj adjustment maps, knock sensor maps, A/F target maps and data logging which im running off an emanage ultimate that i got for $540 off ebay which i installed/tuned myself. Just something that ive been through and thought alot about. How much is it to re-tune a previously tuned chip?

friends dont let friends move spas lol. do what i would do if you cant get it to move... set it up in the front yard.