SECURITY

ive been looking for that type of piping everywhere. where do you get it from???

not too hard mate, pull your spark plugs out, unplug CAS (loom attached to the thing on the front cover of the engine) and injectors (injectors are the grey plugs on the intake side on the front of the motor) make sure the compression tester is de-compressed, screw into the spark plug hole as much as you can by hand (dont over-kill). sit in the drivers seat, put your foot to the floor, wait for 5 rotations of the motor and stop. then go check compression. write it down and note which cylinder then repeat. report back.

you're meant to fill it up with vasoline so as soon as you start the car up its got oil pressure. before you start the car just leave the cas and injectors unplugged and crank the motor without the spark plugs in. this will build up oil pressure faster. once you've got oil pressure then put it all together and off you go.

i dont get what you're asking mate. whats the "address" of the TPS value mean?

doesnt motul turbolight have a cleaning agent kind of thing? or was that 300v? just use that if you're worried.

ebay are pretty helpful when it comes to having been ripped off. as Owgasm said, go through the usual process and see where it leads you.

try find a post by rev210 (something like that). hes made a guide that will stop your intake pipe from sucking itself closed. i've done it to mine and noticed a difference straight away.

it would work but you might not want that hose to be very long for the sake of accuracy.

i plan on doing this to my intercooler (and oil cooler when i get one) - run one of those water sprayer kits that activate on a certain psi. if you were handy with the tools you could probably hook up one yourself with a button you press whenever you think your temps are getting a bit high. my cousin had one of those kits on his rex and worked really well.

*looks in your engine bay* theres the problem! its an rb20.

id definitely want some braided lines if there was a trader on here.

there are alot of workshops that have these kits for under $4k with a std bottom end and using an rb25 head which you supply (usually ripped off your motor). id still rather a standard rb30 bottom end than a standard rb25 bottom end - go the rb30 if you've got the choice.

these things are pretty damn good. there is someone in fairfield in sydney that supplies mufflers with an electronically controlled one. if i didnt have a titanium exhaust i would've had one installed straight away!

there are a few cool installs. Craved is working on one which is a replacement for your washer bottle. half is for the washer bottle and the other half is for a catch can. check the fabrication section.

boost can be controlled by your foot - yeah. but even if you use the pedal to 'limit' the boost at 7psi you're getting nowhere near the acceleration as if it were set to 7psi to begin with and being at WOT. your ecu reads all of this extra air and fuel and goes.. WTF!!? and turns back the timing and adds fuel. to your ecu - extra air is the devil so it dumps a whole lot of fuel to make sure its safe. its not bad for it, but its not good - too much fuel can wash oil off your bores. in extreme cases you could score your bores. your airflow rate is calculated by your AFM voltage at certain rpm. if you hit a certain voltage at a certain rpm your ecu will ad X amount of fuel. if you increase the flow rate, your ecu will (in a way) shit itself and cut everything all together. when i had my hiflow installed i was hitting 3.8v at around 3000rpm which made it feel like hitting a brick wall - you just lose all power and it did it again at around 4.8v @ 5500 rpm.

look into getting an ebc - i know plenty of guys who have had the same problem and had an ebc with gain installed and fixed everything. lots more power all over the place.

sounds about right - flowing at around 80%. more fuel pressure and running at a higher flow rate (dangerous) will see around 450-480.

braided lines rock, ive got a braided line to my turbo, and my water lines have been chopped, expanded and had hoses clamped to them. as long as theyre properly insulated theyre great. mine have made pulling the turbo out a 45min job and installing a 1hr job. the worst thing EVER is trying to get the standard water and oil lines to line up when going back on.

at the end of the day, anything that will help detect knock is good! not sure of anyone using this in AUS but i have heard of the stethescope trick but its going to be hard to hold that on your motor while driving! look into something like the k-pro knock detector. URAS started a thread talking up a knock detector he likes to use - look in to that.

if you've got a compressor just hook up some hot water mixed with concentrated degreaser (which you can get from bunnings) into one of those spray can things you can get as an attachment. would probably be better for getting the grease off cause you can mix degreaser into it. thats what i do.

i MIGHT be in

yeah mate, lock it in. with body roll like that, id be surprised it doesnt tip over!

whatever number last is

rip off the CAS and spin it by hand while testing the spark plug for spark (holding it near an earth), if it doesnt spark then look into replacing the CAS. try swap with someone who you know has a working one.

i wouldnt look at a 32gtr unless its been acid dipped, re-built and re-sprayed.