SECURITY

you havent actually told us what its doing exactly. are the accessory lights coming on when you turn the ignition on but nothing is happening when you try crank it? (starter motor isnt working) is the car 'clicking' when you turn the ignition on? (battery is flat) does nothing happen at all? (battery/alternator failure) give some more info

did anyone hear about this on the news? from the preview it looked like a white r32 GTR. apparently some people died. hope it was no one from here.

thats shit! sorry to hear mate. at least you got her back. im guessing a kill switch is the next mod in line?

ive pretty much got everything sorted except tires. i just need to sort out a trailer for my car.

i did mine with the timing belt on - but i had to remove the tensioner and idler. i cable tied the belt at 2 spots to stop it from slipping - do that first. i only did that because my belt was in good nic.

they are capable of pushing over 300kw... but at the end of the day you're after reliability when you're in the 250kw+ zone. for me it was fine at the 220-230kw mark but for some reason the r33 ecu didnt like the figures that were going into the MAF voltage table (for the MAP sensor conversion) and would pretty much shit itself when trying to tune. a lot of tuners wont touch them because its things like that, that make them a PITA. best thing is to go to your tuner and ask them which ECU in your budget they prefer to tune. after all they are the ones that have to deal with it.

why would you run a piggy back on a GTR? i used to run an emanage ultimate - it was good for $500 and around 220-230kw BUT for anything above that you would want a standalone ECU. personally, i wouldnt go for a power FC unless it was a bargain buy at under $1000. for the extra $600 i'd go for a link or vipec in terms of bang for buck. support for the vipec is direct with its creator, ray hall on the vipec website. its simple to use and the add-on features are great (e.g. knock sensor, wideband for the auto-tune feature or logging, oil temp/pressure etc, boost control). and the help file ACTUALLY helps.

its pretty secure... the defect says "remove fire extinguisher from vehicle".

dammit.. i got defected for having a fire extinguisher in my car a few days ago!

another possibility is that the wrong coil packs were installed and now they're fried. series 1 and 2 coil packs arent interchangeable.

either a failed plug or coil pack. it could also be a loose loom.

have you still got any of these left?

do a compression and leak down test and let us know the results. blue smoke is oil escaping either through your rings or turbo is shagged. sometimes the PCV is blocked or not connected properly which sometimes causes blue smoke to blow out. check that all of your breather hoses are connected properly.

This one?

does anyone know which AASA licence we need for this event?

oil wont go into the engine - its more likely to blow straight out of the exhaust from the cartridge.

if you're losing water i'd say its the turbos that are shagged.

Flat battery wont effect the tune. Are you losing any water out of your radiator?

what colour smoke?

i think it comes down to how reliable you want your car. if your tuner can tune around the AFM's thats fine - lots do. but on stock injectors you'd be running close to, if not on 100% duty cycle. you would be leaving a very small margin of error so things are more likely to go wrong. personally, 85-90% duty cycle is the most i'd go at peak boost/power. you'd be well over that, most of your usable power will be in the 90-100% duty cycle range.

4 wheel steer is good if you're always going to have grip. the moment you lose traction in the rear it becomes too unpredictable. personally, id give up the 4WS for that extra bit of control if i lose traction. thats when it counts because thats when you NEED control over your car. i remember going into a low speed power slide and feeling the rear wheels started to wobble. i got a hicas lock bar the next day.

you havent even put up a pic of the car or told us of things that might stand out on the car... start with the basics.

i wonder how they'd get around the carbon build up on the lazer lens. unless it closed somehow.

how the hell does that compare? diesels have a compression ratio of something like 20:1 to ignite the fuel. try using that kind of compression in a petrol engine.

id just rather not risk it. even the SAU texi says something about wipers plus im suck of carrying around a bottle of water to throw on my windscreen when i need to clean it. dodgy as. thanks for the tip.