SECURITY

only a social retard wouldnt know i was kidding around mate. i put the 'lol' there for a reason - i was lol'ing. anyways, its not about me vs. sau, give this guy some freaking advice.

ive got dibs on the drivers side sun visor + a few other parts

as if it wasnt clear that i was joking you sensitive homosexual.

personal opinion would be to do wakefield park a few times. you wont go more then 3-4 times in the year, it'll cost $50 for the AASA. if you do the whole cams licence you'll be up for around $150 and you'll only really do wakefield park as its alot safer. by all means - go ahead and try eastern creek but its not the most beginner-friendly track there is. so like i said. $50 for AASA and do wakie - get to know your car on a safe course then look into getting your cams licence. at least if you choose to go for the more advanced tracks you'll only be out $50, rather than around $100 (-$50 for AASA) if all you're going to do is wakie. and sau are nothing but a bunch of c*nts anyway lol. p.s. welcome to sau.

properly edited.

you dont need to become a member of skylines australia NSW to drive on the track. just get an AASA licence (cheaper at $50, rather than $85 for a cams + $55 for sau membership) from wakiefield park as you're just starting out and probably wont want to head over to eastern creek just yet - lots of things to hit... like walls. i'd definitely start at wakiefield park till i build my confidence up as its wide open spaces and plenty of room to run off the track. then i'd start looking at getting a cams license if you want to do another track once you've increased your confidence/skill.

builder

any idea of what board it is? it says it on the actual board itself in brackets, something like: © or (E)

sorry guys, this might be a nub question but cant you put a T piece between the VCT solenoid and the head so you can retain VCT by doing it your way Nic?

can someone supply the details on how to apply for an AASA license?

whats AASA?

ill wait till i get it back then i'll organise something

this has got to gooo

the driver would've gotten thrown out of the ute before it crashed.

make it next week! i'll have my car back by then

if you dont sort it yourself let me know. i've got a mate who is a computer/IT genius and does this kind of sh!t all the time.

ive seen stock gtr's pull 150-160kw max on the dyno. thats not a bad thing as its at all 4 wheels. if they pull off the front drive shaft then you'd expect that to be a fair bit higher - 180kw as you mentioned. gtr's dont hold their value, they just depreciate at a different price range as they initially cost more to buy . r32 gtr's in decent condition are going for the price of an s2 r33 gtst (15-18k), and r33 gtr's are going for around $25k. when i had just a safc and basic mods with around 200kw i was keeping up with gtr's on rolling starts. i agree that stock vs. stock the gtst doesnt have a thing on a GTR - but its a GTR ffs.

its too much fun in my car. i like to give it a hit and feel the back about to kick out and know that the only thing stopping me from losing it is me, i feel like theres alot more driver involvement with a RWD but the more i get into beating my track times the better a GTR looks. for now im in it for the fun with the boys and the occasional hit here and there. and my only options at the moment are the r32 and r33 gtr, i could afford either but the r32 is too old and you cant make the r33 gtr RWD - i wont enjoy it. i've spent a fair bit of time and money on my gtst getting it the way i want it, i'd just be starting all over again.

bump

a stock gtr will give you around 140-150awkw but you can still pull a high 12sec pass on a good launch. you'll probably get the same in your car (220kw) with a good launch. you arent really losing much by selling yours and buying a gtr. you could pick up a decent enough r33 gtr for $20k. im putting off driving a high power gtr because i know if i feel the acceleration in one i'll dump my car and buy one. the bottom line is you can pull much quicker times with less power in a gtr. what you need to ask yourself is - how much money do you have to throw at your car?

same thing happens to mine except my oil pressure will sit at 2bar and the light will come on. i've put it down to my gauge being farked beyond belief. only way you'll know for sure is by taking it to a workshop to check your pressures with a mechanical gauge.

he used to have a tripple plate in his last car. im sure a little bite wont worry him!

i got a gcg hiflow when my slide turbo shat itself. i havent had a problem since. my mate has a gcg hiflow on his r34 gtt - he's got all the supporting mods and is at around 260rwkw on 15-18psi.

stop being a tightass. just go out and buy the most expensive one.. then get 2.

go for a jim berry clutch rebuild - hes in brissi. his details are floating around here somewhere.