SECURITY

its pretty easy. just get a copper pipe cutter from supercheap (the same thing plumbers use) for around $5-$10 so you get a nice clean cut on the water lines and you'll be sweet. you'll also need to expand the ends so you get more clamping force onto the pipe. other than that its all pretty much straight forward.

im using one. comes with everything you need. 2 banjo fittings, and some hose for the water lines (you've got to cut, expand then clamp the hose + banjo fittings on), and a completely new oil feed hose + fitting for the block. one thing i think it needs is some kind of heat resistant cover for the water lines as mine are starting to change colour from the heat.

sydney only please

... or i could buy a windscreen for $50 and do it myself.

yeah but if i can grab a 2nd hand one i'll be able to do it on the cheap.

im after a front windscreen for an r33 gtst. pm me if you have one. thanks guys.

this has been happening for yonks. around 3-4yrs ago my mate was getting chased through parramatta by a van with P plates on it.

friendly pm's are for people who have friends. anyways, swapping off the turbo would probably be the most expensive thing you do, yes. but getting a hiflow turbo and keeping it on would be better. things like the computer wont really matter as i dont think they check for this. just your emissions. so if you got a decent tune on low boost, and im talking 2-3psi (you wont reach any higher boost when they check your emissions as they rev it in neutral), it would be a different story if they actually drove the car, can someone confirm if they do?

i have this problem all the time if shes not ready for it.. what i do is grab a whole bunch of lube and.... oh you mean rims. try a camber kit. are your guards rolled? i had to roll my guards when i fit 19's.

thats exactly where i took it boys

i love it when you talk dirty, pumpkin. anyway. back to topic. are you looking to get your EPA friendly just for EPA? or you want it to be 100% EPA so you can engineer it and keep it like that permanently? because any tuner out there will do an emissions tune for you but i dont know how safe it is on your motor.

i dont think so, Roy. sounds like hes being a hold-out just because it was him who had to spend the money. i mean, if these guys didnt spend the money or the time, they wouldnt have the info to help you, would they? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/SE...lems-t2196.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...B25-t20624.html <-- even sydneykid, and we all know how much time and money he's spent. i think ash is just a bit of a tight ass, Roy.

but its different when you leech information off other people, right?

lots of chances to learn how to box in cronulla.

pfc has been used plenty of times on autos with no problems. i run an emanage on my auto, its a top computer. its got alot of great functions - more than a pfc. if your workshop recommended it it must mean theyre fairly confident with its capabilities. i say go for it.

lol nah dont worry about it, we can do a straight swap if you want.

cant you use the 260cc settings but by using the A/F map settings? like, you'll be getting the emu to tune your injector map to suit your preferred a/f's at every rpm vs. afm point.

i dont think so

its a nugget.

you didnt mention if you bought a cat converter either.

could be the wheel bearing.

k

these items are general maintenance items so you cant really see these as a negative because eventually you will have to do them on any car: castor rod bushes, new hoses, new radiator, wheel alignment, new tires. these are extra things out of the ordinary that you'll be spending on: paint job, front bumber scratched a lil and not fitted properly. a respray in the same colour shouldnt cost you more than $1200 if the body is straight. things like fixing the scratch (if there is a dent from it) will cost you, they will have to remove the bumper and re-fit it when re-spraying the car anyway.

if its oil on the electrode, it could mean that you've got some nasty blow by caused by a f**ked piston/ring. If it was light blow-by you'd see your electrode covered in a white chalky substance. but actual oil is a different story. this could also mean that your PCV or breathers are blocked and is pushing oil into your combustion chamber. im surprised you said 'a piece of piston was playing pinball inside #2 chamber' so casually. you didnt mention if you fixed this??

If Craved has sold his, ive got one that im selling.