SECURITY

my cars back up and running so ill be up for a track day some time soon-ish (probably after exams) to test out the new setup.

mine says GSCII 07207

whats 'over 4500' mean? where do i find out?

mine had an (E) on it.

the place theyre cruising to is called 'The Entrance', its up near Gosford.

yeah ive got a few mates who are up for the drive but not the dinner. sorry dude. YOU sound kinda gay.

does anyone know what settings to use to get a signal off the knock sensor?

somewhere in this general area.

i'd like to know the limits of the standard engine too. rb30's are too cheap for me to care if they blow. the power level im looking at getting is around the same as The Mafia's. its not alot and ive heard that the 30's can hold that much power on the std bottom ends well, but thats just what ive heard. a std build will cost around $1500 compared to around $6-7k for a built motor, so if theyre reliable @ 300kw with a std build then why would i fork out the extra $4-4.5k if im not looking to pass the 300-320kw mark? just thought i'd throw that up for discussion.

send me an sms on the night letting me know. we'll meet at the usual spot.

firstly.. i'd check for an aftermarket ECU in there, you never know - alot of people have imported what they thought were standard cars and got something completely different. get the car tuned and you'll get rid of the richness problem which will stop it from igniting in your exhaust. rb oil pressure gauges arent very accurate. get a mechanical gauge on there to check your oil pressure.

if anyone is hitting up the nasho afterwards let me know. ive got a few mates that are keen but dont want to go to the dinner.

rb25 is 27mm. getting the bolt loose is a matter of a breaker bar levering it so when the engine clicks over (cranking it) it will loosen the bolt. getting the balancer off will need a balancer puller. a long screw driver will damage the balancer.

or excessive blow-by.

save it as a .zip file then upload that. it should work then.

it does comes down to inexperience. what ive noticed with the emanage is that it works on a correctional basis, not a final output kind of mapping (PFC). for example, if you want timing to be 20 degrees @ set RPM on a PFC you just input 20 degrees at whatever rpm. with an emanage, if you want timing to be 20 degreesa @ the same RPM and timing is at 15 degrees already, you just input +5 into the ignition adjustment map @ whatever RPM. the difference is minimal but i think theyve just been turned off the emanage blue.

s14. or went ahead with my merc 500 SEL v8tt project i was dreaming about.

grab an rb25 front compressor cover and bolt it on. if thats not an option then get a 90 degree silicon bend from anywhere that sells them or get someone to weld a 90 degree steel bend onto the vg30 front cover.

i have, but your mum wont give me my money back either but yeah, i have. my problem is that the refund is coming from murnane motors, not slide. and with the turbo now in pieces my warranty is void as slide has told me. another thing - i bought the turbo before aaron lost his workshop. all warranty work wasnt sent through murnane then, it was sent to him. i didnt get a warranty document stating what the terms and conditions were. and they werent in his trader section either.

thats exactly how it is. all i want is a working turbo, if not, i just want my money back in full. ill be ringing the department of fair trading on monday to see what legal leg i have to stand on. i've got a few guys helping me with this case, and a helpful SAU'er trying to find precedent for when i apply to sue. i'll pick up my turbo and report from GCG on monday or tuesday. ive got 2 law classes on monday night so ill be asking both of my lecturers for a push in the right direction. and just a bit more information for everyone: i ended up blocking off my bov return pipe and made the breather hose vent through an atmo catch can and i was still getting oil through my cooler piping. i'll be getting my mechanic to write me a report also. another issue is that i paid Aaron Peters the entire sum (as requested in all of his threads at the time) into his personal account with the description as hiflow turbo. i've got all records of him asking for me to deposit the money for the turbo into this account too. is that good enough for a receipt? should i contact the ATO to back up my claims in court about the dodgy way of evading tax (to strengthen my case in court)?

1. where did you expect it to go? the wastelands? 2. ive got nothing against sliding performance but they pretty much screwed me by telling me to take it to GCG, then telling me my warranty is void by them opening it. its a direct contradiction of what i was advised to do and now im out around $1500 because of this. 3. ive tried talking it out. instead i was dicked around and was given contradicting advice. 4. this started by them telling me that they werent going to pay for GCG's fees and postage as a part of their warranty. i dont want the damn turbo anymore, the problems ive had with it have made me decide to sell my car once this is all dealt with.

listen guys, this isnt a thread for bagging out sliding performance. i just want a little guidance to form a case just to see if ive got a leg to stand on in court.

i think its been established that its murnane motors in burleigh.

n1 oil pump pumps around 25% more oil than standard. theyre a high flowing oil pump. if you're using one on a high revving engine make sure you do the oil feed mod to your block as it can empty your entire sump 25% quicker high pressure pumps increase oil pressure throughout the rev range. you can make any oil pump have a harder spring, just tighten the big bolt on it. all this does is raises or lowers the peak oil pressure. it works on the same principal a wastegate works on.

tricky thing about that part of the engine is that there are alot of coolant hoses under the plenum as well as the heater hoses. check out the heater hoses first as theyre easier to get to. just look out for the hose with the most chalky residue on it, look for a split in it and go from there. as for getting under the floor mats, it usually is a broken heater core that leaks into this area. some people have gotten away without ripping the dash out but its a little fiddly as the heater core sits right behind the centre console up against the firewall.