SECURITY

poor bastards . my mates bought around 30 of them when they came out. sold 25 of them in the space of a week, a week ago (with the price slightly inflated ).

id still try out run them.. except i'd hope i got one of the coppers that stacked it at the end of the vid chasing me.

haha yeah

would someone just answer his f**king question? its working out cheaper for him, let it go. im sure he knows its not the best way to go but hes playing the hand he was dealt. you'll need: -n/a headers + exhaust. -n/a ecu (and afm- double check that) -re-circulating or blocked off oil and water lines. the water lines can be fed into each other. -oil drain needs to be blocked off. -n/a intake pipe. thats all off the top of my head. you'll still need to get the work engineered for the RTA to pass it as an N/A. ring the RTA and ask them if you're allowed to do that first (as you were advised in your other thread).

AIAIAIAIAIAIAIAIAI!!

nice work mate. definitely going in my bookmarks.

thats still just what you've interpreted from what you've heard about the new laws, so thats an opinion too isnt it - its not solid info. he's asking a hypothetical so lets say he's got the car and the parts ready to go. hypothetically speaking, if he got the work signed off by an engineer (engineers cert.), and told the RTA what he's done because it was cheaper than buying a non turbo car, he might be eligible for an exemption (obviously it wouldnt be cheaper, but for the sake of getting the exemption, thats what he'd say). the fact of the matter is that the RTA is like any other government authority. there are loopholes around everything.

oh.. and broken turbo. oh oh.. and defects. fun times.

power is still there, but once 4wd is engaged the torque is split between the front and back. its only really useful when you're trying to build momentum off the line or out of a corner. but once you've hit a certain speed then the 4wd is useless unless you've got alot more power than standard.

yeah ive seen a fair bit of them going around. but theyve got all of the rb20 gear on them (injectors, coils etc).

1. its a piggy back ecu, but it functions as a full engine management system (i.e. theres nothing you cant do that any other replacement ecu can do). 2. it works fine with the auto. it even has an A/T shift control. 3. it doesnt work with the e-01 boost controller, thats only the emanage blue. im not buying an EBC for around a years time till they get something out. im sure they will make something for it considering the emu is proving to be more popular than the blue.

first car is always a shit box. he'll get a supra.

did anyone else leave that place we ate at still hungry? im starving!

yeah its all good. we still had a good go through the nasho.

i should've put batteries in my CB. shit go.

nice pics turdey. someone remind me not to follow whoever i followed on the way home, again! completely missed going through nasho with the main group farken.

aaaa-HA! its all your fault its raining!

a shit load of degreaser and a high pressure hose. try some stuff called 'bug and tar remover' if that doesnt work which you'll find at repco or supercheap. its top stuff. but still use a high pressure hose, or a paint brush if you're keen on getting inside the fins.

the twin turbo ones use a t25 flange (and are too small for your car), the single uses a t3 flange - same as your stocky.

valve stem seals.

there has got to be a problem with your car. the ecu i sold you was doing my head in for DAYS. i was tossing up between selling it and keeping it and i couldnt make up my mind. it felt way better than when i had my safc in. i bought the ecu off someone who was running it on a stock turbo gtst also with 'stage 1 mods'. i was running it on 15psi also with a standard exhaust. it would make me wheel spin through 2nd and 3rd. sure its through a hiflow turbo but even on 10psi (ask MANWH0RE when i was testing it out he was in the car with me), it spun through the rev range and through gear changes also with the standard exhaust. im going to say from what ive read, your timing is out and by a fair bit too. get it fixed up and im sure you'll have the same results.

id be up for that challenge

when my engine blew i still made boost. take all your piping off and check for missing turbo blades and shaft play. and/or take your spark plugs out and put a rag on the end of a screw driver and dip it into each cylinder. if you get oil on the end of it then you've blown your motor. or just do a compression test.

i believe he was talking about a worked auto which actually costs less than a new clutch. you cant get quicker changes in a manual. even on a stock box, to change gears all you need to do is back off and it will change gears. takes all of around 1 second. you dont need to wait till redline.

has anyone noticed these f**king things are coming back in different colours!!!!!!!!!!!