SECURITY

it depends on the weather, if its a cold start on a cold day it will screech more than other days. just tighten your alternator belt which is usually the culprit.

was it The Big Red Car from the wiggles?

ive got one for a 33 gtst for sale - $80

do they come in yellow?

bump

its not a hard thing to do - you will figure it all out as you go. its just the little things like getting the flywheel bolts on and off without a rattle gun that will do your head in - easy if you know how, its a little hard to explain. the few things that make it 100x easier to get it all on/off are the following: 1. take the exhaust off at the cat - you'll need it disconnected because you need to tilt the engine backwards. 2. loosen the engine mount bolts to the end of the thread. 3. get a regular car jack and jack up the front of the motor at the front of the sump AFTER you've taken the tail shaft off, disconnected exhaust and intercooler piping that moves with the motor - this makes it easy to reach the top bolts on the bell housing with a long extension. this also helps when pulling the box out, what i do is get my trolley jack, pull it out while ive got super clamps on the handle so i can turn it while under the car. the box drops to a height where you can kind of 'roll' it onto the ground. make sure you remove the jack thats tilting the motor before you're ready to fit the tail shaft back on. 4. i'll try explain how to loosen/tighten the flywheel bolts without a rattle gun... if you put the lower left bell housing bolt on, you can get enough leverage to put a BIG flat head screw driver into the flywheel teeth to stop it turning. you'll figure it out once you get under there.. it has to wedge between the chassis and that bell housing bolt to stop it from turning - next clutch i do i'll take a pic. with a breaker bar you'll easily get to the required torques. p.s. buy a nissan input shaft from any gearbox place - im pretty sure they're all the same.

its not a massive job mate. i did my whole manual conversion with my car on ramps and jack stands. the hardest thing is lifting the box back onto the motor. the rest is easy.

heres how you tell which box you've got; RB25 box on the left, RB20 box on the right. you can tell the difference straight away. the rb20 box is noticeably smaller and it has some differences in the housing. in your case, buy a half cut - it will be much cheaper than buying everything separately. it should cost you around $3000-$3500. i also recommend doing a leak-down and compression test before anything. if the motor is in good nik then the gearbox that is attached is more than likely to be in good nik, i.e. not abused.

you dont need your car very high to do a clutch change. i did mine while it was on ramps.

the only place it could be coming from is if the rocker cover gaskets have failed, or if the breather pipe is cracked and leaking. if there is a hole in the head then you have other problems.

how about a bolt on kit for the holset turbo range? re-sell the internal wastegate type, get someone to make up dump pipes, oil lines made up and a recirculating water pipe made up and a 15-20mm spacer. these turbos sound great, cheap to run, proven results, and are cheap to rebuild and push upwards of 300kw. the only down side is they are bush bearing (which hasnt caused any dramas) and there are no bolt on options for the rb's.

another +1 for Vipec. super easy to use and the support is unmatched IMO.

you might want to check that a loom didnt come loose first - the one for the switches. failing that, behind the drivers door panel is a black box, that usually gets damaged with water getting in and rusting out the board. what ive found works is to take the board out of the box, give it a light sand with wet and dry, spray some contact cleaner on it and re-solder the joints underneath.

to minimise the flow of oil vapour going into your intake. its not a 1 way valve, you can see that it has a hole in the middle of it with no valve. its not either.

you dont need to put anything in the reservoir tank. if its over-filled then it will just drain if your fuel cap ever releases any pressure. its not something you need to fill up. just concentrate on putting coolant into your radiator.

get any brand but make sure its concentrated or get a 50/50 blend. some do a 30/70 on non turbo cars (30 coolant/70 water). its up to you which one you go for - its just an anti-boil/freeze additive. you'll find that the concentrates are a little cheaper than the pre-mixed stuff.

you need to get all of the air out of your coolant system. it involves filling up your radiator, letting the car get to operating temperature and revving the engine to about 3000rpm every now and then while still keeping the coolant topped up. you need to keep an eye on the temperature, making sure it doesnt overheat. you need to be doing all of this while the heater is on full heat @ full fan speed. when it seems like its not releasing any more air, close the radiator cap, let it idle for a little while then crack the bleeder nut which is at the highest point of the cooling system. if its your first attempt i suggest searching 'how to bleed cooling system'. or get it to a mechanic to sort out. this has the potential of doing a bit of damage if temps get too high so be careful and dont be afraid to turn the car off if you feel like the temperature is getting too hot.

if you arent leaking water, it means you havent bled your coolant system properly. the sound you're hearing is the water moving around in the air gaps inside the heater core. bleed your coolant properly and it should go away.

they've got them in the factory breather pipes. its just a restrictor.

how much meat is left on the clutch?

i roll out a piece of vinyl floor covering. its easy to clean so you can re-use it. its thick-ish so it always rolls out flat and its easy to slide under the car as well as pull yourself back out.

ive got my hks exhaust - its not the silent type, its got a mean rumble to it on idle as well as full song - sounds great. its 3" to 3.5 to 4" then the HKS muffler - VERY good flow. its used but in pretty good condition, it has the usual marks exhausts end up with after a while. it needs a piece for the LHS mount to be welded on - but it held up perfectly with just the RHS. pics will be up soon. reason for sale is i bought a kakimoto 3.5 inch system and no longer need this. price: $450 reply or pm me. cheers, joe

^^ yep. use original hoses unless theyre of a good quality 4 PLY silicon type. the usual silicon hoses ALWAYS end up leaking/cutting/bursting prematurely. i think the just jap kits are 4-ply and sell for something like $130 delivered. if i didnt have an aftermarket plenum i would've gone for that kit. i ended up going to supercheap with all of my hoses and getting all different types to match the shapes i had and they're still going strong.

you know what i love about these..... is that if you've got a door, you've got a gym! sorry mate.. i had to. good luck with the sale.

firstly, run it on minimal boost. 5-7psi at most, even on that dont rev it out as you may run lean. throw away the SAFC and get your ecu chipped. contact CEF11E, im pretty sure he chips r32 ecu's and will cost about the same as a safc installed and tuned - and be much more reliable.