SECURITY

looks to me that he didnt touch anything on the map before 5000rpm (i.e. r&r looks like its still there). timing is adjustable with the emanage so that was purely an excuse to cover for his shit tune. did you get an AFR readout too?

sure can kid. it'll be worth millions one day.

not every rb20 does it when its cold. if you can, swap over a CAS (crank angle sensor) with someone else's if you can, its the thing that sits on the top right of your motor with the mitsubishi logo on it. its held in by 3x10mm bolts. keep note of your timing though.

what i did was get some radiator hose from supercheap that fit the GTR bov ($5), and cut the old hose over the return pipe then fit the new pipe over it. works fine

ive driven cars for a few weeks with a spun bearing. it will still drive like normal but it will eventually f**k things up further for you. rb20's are cheap these days, so it will probably be cheaper to replace the whole motor. also, spinning a bearing isnt always as simply fixed as it seems. you need to check for clearances before wacking in a new set of bearings. and it is possible to do the bearings while the motor is still in the car. i recommend getting your oil pump replaced to something like an rb25 pump with a crank collar too.

you could get an r32 in o.k. condition for around 8k. but otherwise i'd either go for a s14b or an sr20 s13.

cheapest long term? rb30/25. if you use the r32 rb25de head you can use all of your existing gear (injectors, wiring etc). would probably cost you around $2,000 doing it on the cheap.

say what?

happy birthday boys

do you forget saying 'the new one is the better option'?, implying that a hiflow is not new, and not a better option. choose your wording carefully.

the only 'old' parts are the exhaust and compressor housings which get acid dipped anyway. everything else in a hiflow is brand spanking new.

they're going to actually pay me now?

i think they were only after people speeding, not defecting anyone. be realistic, not everyone who goes to WSID is a car enthusiast and only gives it a hit on the track. alot of those who get done are spectators who are hyped from watching it all night, not just the competitors. it wasnt a shit go, if you were speeding that night you got caught. move on?

thanks turdy. yep thats me and my m3 in that pic above, and in the vid earlier you can see me getting beaten by the green VL. i catch up and beat him though ok maybe not. but i was close. ok i lied again.

hey mate, welcome to the forums. the e-01 is only for the emanage blue. it wont work with the ultimate. this is why i think Greddy will be releasing something similar for the ultimate. im going to hold on on buying an EBC till they release something.

another thing thats popped to mind was how they used to compress the tops of their standard fuel pressure regulators to bump up the fuel pressure up by around 15-20psi. there was a way of doing this by T'ing the FPR to a compressor, run it so it shows the psi then compressing the head of the FPR and you'd actually be able to see what pressure you'd be bumping it up to. again, im not sure how reliable it would be.

$100 says the seller is from china. dept. of fair trading will give you a big 'thank you come again'. they cant do a damn thing.

there are a few engine management systems that have a setting for an extra injector. im pretty sure the emanage does. how safe this is, i would have no idea on.

there is alot more into it than just that. they'll take your housings and bore them out. their hiflow housings dont just require a bigger wheel, and their whole cartridges come pretty much complete anyway and thats where 90% of the cost is. you need to have a cartridge to support the shaft that will be spinning 150-200% faster at full song.

GCG - around 1900 (ball bearing) bush bearing - 1200ish (some guy in sydney does them, forget his name, look up the member QURIOS or something similar) they wont take your compressor wheel either.

i dont think the new laws apply to people overseas, if you have a full license from where you live then i think it will convert to a full license over here. you might want to call the NSW RTA first.

what power are you looking for?

ok, ive read over what the manual says and it has become a bit clearer for me now. START option needs to be where you want your launch control rpm to be. this will only activate when the TPS and/or speed parameter has been exceeded. IGN CUT needs to be what your MAX ignition cut is. SHIFT UP is the rpm limit when shifting up (not sure if this means flat stick changing on a manual). Throttle position is the min TPS % that is required to activate the ignition cut. IGN adjustment is the amount of ignition you want to take away. # of V.S. Pulse is the speed in which you want the start ignition cut to disable at. what ive done is: START: 3500rpm (activates 500rpm over for some reason) CUT RPM: 7000rpm (as above) SHIFT UP: N/A i have ticked the boxes infront of the 2 i changed to engage the -ve timing that is input into "ign adjustment" below. Throttle position: 60% (throttle needs to exceed 60% for the ign cut to activate) Ign adjustment: -15 # of VS Pulse: 10 (km/h) (im still playing with this to get it to work properly)

after waiting a week for someone to make payment, they have pulled out. so im hoping to have these in, tested and ready for pick up or posted out by wednesday. thanks for your patience guys.

ok i tried to get it to work but i had a bit of a problem with the way it dis-engaged. i put the settings to 5km v.s, 3500rpm into the start input, (ign. cut automatically went to 3500 too for some reason too), and 50% throttle. ignition cut actually went to 4000rpm (it always goes 500rpm over what i set it to), went into D, took off and passed 5km/h but ign cut was still on and limited me to 4000rpm. i tried again and it went into ign cut, i quickly had to punch the accelerator again to get it to pass the rev limit. does anyone know if thats how its supposed to be?