SECURITY

it doesnt look like a big problem to me. take it to a machinist and get them to deck that face by .5mm. it would be the first thing i would have done anyway as ive seen a few copies come back without a flat surface. it looks uneven in a few spots anyway. get it done, it should only cost you around $40-$50 and you will regain a bit of meat between the water galley and the runner.

bump

wow. i cant believe how shocking your timing is. my mrs just did her last shift at telstra today. she still might be able to ask. what did you need to know?

apparently the new monaro is going to the USA and we're getting the camaro in its place. and i must stress the fact that my source of info is a bunch of guys sitting around a cards table. i cant be wrong.

i havent gotten the knock sensor to work either but i think the jumper is still set to read intake temperature (jp16 i believe). my worry is when i tried to play with my launch control (ignition cut control), when i set it to 3000rpm it would come on at 3500rpm. same if i did it at 3500rpm, it actually came on at 4000rpm. and when it actually engaged i got all of these errors come up saying that there was no signal for ignition (WTF??). im 100% sure ive set it up properly, is there a jumper setting that i missed somewhere? also, how does the ignition cut feature work exactly? how do i set it up properly? can someone give me a quick rundown on how to use it?

im only using some shitty 215's atm. i want all my times to be in street trim. i wont be removing anything to make it lighter either. the most i'd do is put some decent street tyres on my 17s.

in one of the menus there will be an option to "initialise". that will delete all data that has been input into the unit. i recommend doing that and starting from scratch. OR you can scroll through and find "file select" or something like that. this will allow you to choose between the 2 data files by going to the column which says "ON OFF" and pushing the joystick up or down to select. this is all off the top of my head so follow it only as a general guide.

yep.

they say aids makes you sicker for longer. look into it.

call the number. $100 says the guy who wrote the ad is trying to piss someone off by getting people to call.

hey turdey, come here for a sec.

he did say "save yourself some dosh". you'll save yourself around $2 of labour for removing those 4x10mm bolts and listening for noises.

i should be getting 13 flat at least, but it was a shocking run like i said, i wasnt using the gears properly and it was the first time i tried my new launch style. my 60 foot was 2.32. to get a flat 13 i should be working to make that a flat 2.0 or better. theres that and the fact that i thought it was in 1st (when it was actually in D), so i went to shift into 2nd and went into neutral by accident. it was the worst ive ever driven.

the kkr's usually come with everything you need to make a dump so fitting isnt really a problem (some come with oil lines). as for reliability - ive got no idea. im pretty sure theyre a journal bearing turbo (for around $900 they're not going to be ball bearing). unless i had some solid results id be going for a slide hiflow.

thats a shit go!! thats the kind've thing i hate to see. you're lucky r32 shells are cheap. im also suprised to see the wheels and tyres are still useable. it shouldnt take too long to get it running again. goodluck.

ive felt so shit the last few days. my muscles hurt. im always tired. i cant freakin walk properly from my hammies being so sore. im feeling a little better today. thank f**k for drugs!

i installed it myself, its not hard at all, theres also a guide in the DIY section. the tune cost me $200.

i dont have it anymore, ive upgraded to an emanage ultimate. i was running 191kw with all the 'stage 1' mods.

i got 191kw @ 10psi. some tuners get lazy and dont really change anything before 3000rpm. if you go in telling them you want to run a little lean before boost, then want a 12:1 afr from then on and ask for an AFR map to prove they did it, then you should get better consumption as well as power.

the knock sensor on my safc2 was a life saver. i turned timing over a bit too much, i saw it hit 99 then started to hear a little pinging AFTER. i set it to flash if it went over 40 knock, otherwise i would've have known and blown my motor to bits..... again.

safc1 has 8 correction points that can be adjusted in 500rpm increments. thats about all it does. safc2 has 12 correction points that can be adjusted in 200 rpm increments and has the ability to run 2 maps (usually 1 tuned, and the other standard) and it has the ability to minitor knock. safc NEO has 16 correction points, VTEC controller built in (i.e. VAFC built in) as well as all the features the safc2 has but has a colour display that kind've turns me on.

13.8 @ 106 accidentally didnt hold gears so i lost around 1000rpm through 1st and 2nd (was trying a new launch style so got a bit nervous).

tell him to check the lowest point of his intercooler piping for oil. that'll give you an indication if its the turbo or hella blow-by.

never!!!

no, he doesnt. i asked him not long ago and he was still trying to find the hardware to burn the r33 chips. but im sure once he gets his hand on the hardware we'll all know about it. theres a guy in sydney that does r33 remaps. give him a go on yuna @ tpg.com.au, i was going to get him to make me a new chip on my already chipped ecu but i ended up getting an emanage ultimate.