SECURITY

hey guys, i was talking to a mate in the business and he told me he had a fair few external hard drives that he can get in. he said he'd cut a deal for my mates (sau members) if we can get numbers up on orders as he has to do them on a bulk buy kind of thing through his supplier. they come from 80gig to around 500gig (and i think 750gig) and range from $120 for the 80gig to $240 for the 500gig. they are all seagate SATA drives and come in a choice of 2 covers. ill get pics once he's got them. as for prices i dont know if theyre good or not so thats why its an eoi. so... express your interest. cheers, joe

anyways, its not about sewid being wrong. so lets get onto the cabbie driver slagging! im pretty sure the thread in the cabbie forum is "i was a major tool last night, how do i find the skyline driver to apologise?"

in your eyes.

firstly, i wasnt in the overtaking lane. i was going a little faster then the person in the right lane so he chose me to 'try' force off the road. so i slowed down. when he got past me he deliberately tried to make me hit him. i didnt slow down hard, i eased off the accelerator. so how about you understand the situation before passing judgements, princess.

well i went for a drive last night and while on the m4 a cabbie drives riiiiiiiiiight up my ass. so i think to myself "f**k this c**t".. there was a car to the right of me so i thought i'd just block him in alll the way down the m4 (i was NOT on the overtaking lane). so i slow down till about 60 and he changes to the other lane to try overtake, as he gets next to me, i speed up and box him in - then he changes back to my lane thinking im going to go past the other guy in the other lane - so i slowed back down to 60. i did this around 5-6 times before i ran out of road and the m4 split into 4 lanes. he got around me, got infront of me and SLAMMED his brakes for me to hit him, because im so 1337 i didnt. he tried to make me hit him around 4 times. by this stage ive gone from happy, friendly joe to evil joe. so i grab my breaker bar and try get next to this bloke. as soon as he saw the breaker bar he dropped the gear and got as far away from me as he could........ by driving over the median strip at the end of the m4 near burwood. the lights were red but evil joe wanted to confront this guy. so evil joe ran the reds too and tried to catch him. evil joe failed because there was too much traffic i hate cab drivers. theyre all wankers. they think they can put their hazards on in the middle of the street and its FINE. they think they can skip across 2-3 lanes infront of you as long as they put their blinker on. f**ken.

450/tank average on mobil 8000, it also showed less knock when i used it on my safc when i had it. i get more out of mobil 8000 than i do out of bp ultimate where i get around 410-420km/tank and a little more knock.

how clean is the plug that connects to the sensor? try cleaning it out with contact cleaner or pushing the metal clampy thing inside the plug out with a really small screw driver so it comes into contact with the sensor alot better.

that stuff usually doesnt need long to set. usually around an hr or 2. but seeing as though you'd want to be 110% sure i'd be doing it in the afternoon/evening, leave it overnight till you drive it the next morning, fill it up with oil then off you go. if you need it urgently then 2-3hrs should be fine. a tip before you start (if you're only dropping the sump - not completely removing it): be careful when taking the sump gasket off. chances are bits of it will be pretty fried onto the block and/or sump, when getting it off be very careful not to get ANY into your sump.

yeah. replace oil and fuel consumption with burning even more fossil fuels which is a leading cause of global warming. top work. the question is.. which is worse?

looks the goods mate! just keep them ideas we spoke about in the books hey

ive got to pull out too. my car wont be ready by then

sorry i couldnt make it. i had an emergency at work.

yeah. what you'll notice if the cas is shagged that it'll be like that constantly as well as have a fair bit of black smoke come out the exhaust (as the fuel wont be firing). if you feel like you're getting a fair bit of hesitation and it is completely random (not misfire) then its most likely your fuel pump.

fuel pump.

that piece was made for a standard exhaust. you'll need to grind it to fit the bigger exhaust.

fuel pump rooted??

i attached the wrong file mate. i named the exhaust and inlet the same damn thing. this is for the intake manifold. sorry mate.

pfc (1400+... very rare now a days) or emanage ultimate (~$900), and a tune ($500ish). that will get you 200kw. the standard turbo will be at its limits at 200kw and may very well need upgrading. upgrading the turbo will mean another 1k-1.7k on a hiflow (if you choose to go into that direction). but if you get a hiflow you might as well take full advantage of it with: afm (z32 $300) and injectors (555cc off slide: $600ish) and get around 240kw easily. personally im going in the: slide hiflow: approx: $950 emanage ultimate: $900 ish z32 afm: $300 standard injectors (maybe 555cc - undecided): $0 tune: $400-$500 thats around $2650 or $3200 with injectors. $2800 will get you a nice set bilstein shocks, springs, sway bars etc with still a bit to spare.. thats if you're doing all the labour yourself. if not, that amount will be significantly less.

edit: the EXHAUST manifold from the workshop manual is here: the exhaust manifold doesnt show any torque settings on the turbo model, so im guessing it means to do them as tight as you can??? can someone confirm this? here is the INLET manifold torque settings: when i put mine together i didnt look at the torque settings, i put the new studs and nuts in pretty damn tight as well as used some lock tight.

-first, put some oil on the inside of the bolt and on the thread so there is minimal friction when using the torque wrench. -tighten the bolts to around 16N0m (1.4 - 1.6kg-m) -then tighten the bolt an extra 60-65 degrees using a protractor fitted to your breaker bar (use a breaker bar instead of a rachet so your angle is constant as a breaker bar doesnt click back and wont snap under high torques). cheers.

parts involved for a bottom end rebuild: pistons, rods, rings, rod bolts, main bearings, big end bearings, oil squirters, oil pump, metal head gasket. things you should do: rear main seal, regrind the crank (will require oversized main and big end bearings to suit), block x-rayed for cracks etc. thats it off the top of my head.

if you've allowed your pcv to be free flowing from the crankcase - catch can, and your catch can is recirculating back into your intake then you'll get what seems to be blow by. theres a reason the pcv valve is a 1 way valve - it doesnt let the OIL from the crankcase into the head, or in your case catch can. reconnect the pcv with the valve on it in properly then clean out your intercooler piping and go from there. while the pipes are off check for shaft play in the turbo.

yeah... dont run 14.8psi on the stock turbo..... unless you enjoy rebuilds. dont take it past 10-12psi if you want it to last.

pm slide. he is an sau member as well as trader that deals with hiflow turbos. check in the trader section. he'll rebuild your turbo and is also located near the gold coast. price will be around 900 (dont quote me - ask him) if you supply the turbo. prices are in the trader section.

it looks crap. so does the paintjob.