SECURITY

dont listen to her mate. shes probably got pms. keep up the good work.

i was thinking about offloading my car to buy that one. its a top car mate. congrats.

nice score mate. that car was going for wayyyy less than what it was worth. its pretty quick hey

take it off and blow some compressed air through it. its meant to be free flowing from cam cover > crankcase, and blocked from crankcase > cam cover. if it leaks from crankcase > cam cover then its time for a new one.

you can ring them and tell them to ad your bike to the list of cars able to use the tag.

we're on the one that direct debits a hunj every time the balance goes low. the way it works is they start off with 2 lanes and charge a set amount when they first build it. then when the govt comes in and says, "ok, you've had your run, take the price down". they reply with "we'll build a bridge to free traffic going from X to X" or, "we'll build another lane down the highway between X and X", "so we'll keep the price as it is, then once its finished we'll jack it up a few cents". then the government says "ok". thats why theres always work being done to the motorways. just so the price stays up. concrete costs less per m3 than any other building material so it'll cost them a few hundred thousand dollars to build but in the end make them another million. the government has been doing this with the m5 and the m2 for years.

so whats this 'track day t-shirt' look like anyway?

well the only other thing i can think of that would cause oil to build up there is: - the cam cover gaskets - you'll need to take the cam covers off and replace the gaskets and half moons. - rear main seal - gearbox off, rear main seal housing off, replace rear main seal. - gearbox - nfi, just an idea. dont just check the reservoir. get under the car and check the actual line leading from it as well as the PS pump.

im going to take a 'wild guess' and say its power steering fluid. check the line leading from the reservoir. power steering fluid leaks are one of the joys in owning a skyline.

hahaha thats whats needed to make an sr20 do 14s. nice one.

copper is actually a better conductor than the iridium or platinum coated plugs. ontop of that they cost next to nothing compared to iridiums or platinums. and not everybody pays a mechanic when getting something done. iridiums may be good for you, but the obvious choice for everyone in the know.

your lifters are in the head, theyre what your cam lobes push down to open your valves. gtst lifters are hydraulic so they need the right oil pressure to function correctly. if you're using thinner oil your oil pressure will drop a bit. use something like 10-40 which is the recommended oil weight, just make sure its synthetic. motul turbolight does the trick and is well priced. do the oil change soon, you dont want to damage your lifters. as for the vac hose you're holding, thats the one that goes to the factory gauge. either find the other end and connect them somehow or block it off so you dont lose vacuum/pressure.

your problem isnt with the type of plug suited to the car, the problem is the gap they come with. larger gaps will cause a bit of a miss under load. smaller gaps wont. if you know how to re-gap spark plugs i recommend gapping your iridiums to .8mm using a feeler gauge and trying them that way. if it still doesnt work then at least youve still got your platinums.

ill try help with a few of these... the standard boost gauge vacuum hose is shit. over time it gets really hard and eventually breaks. check for it at the back of the plenum near the aav valve for a vac hose thats split or come off. what type of oil are you using? if its too thin it will cause the lifters to tap a bit. use a decent oil, something synthetic and 10-40. any place that sells things like oil filters and fuel filters should have them. try a repco or anywhere similar.

if its the series 1.5 or series 2 r33 (internal ignitor pack) you'll need to do the same thing the r34 owners have to do to run it. its like a resistor or something that goes between the power feed to convert the 12v to 5v. URAS would be the man to give you the details on what to do. the EMU thread is here and it looks like there is someone wth the same problem as you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...161460&st=0

he hasnt stated a brand, so if you want to risk spending that money on injectors you have no idea on how they'll perform (or not), then its your call. injectors are a vital part of your motor dude. i wouldnt go around looking for the cheapest set out there. unless i had some real evidence that these things perform i wouldnt go near them.

my m3 (maybe not your typical m3) goes very well against anything. the way these cars were made was to pull throughout the rev range. and it does. ive never lost to a holden ANYTHING yet either

you really dont know whats been done to the motor. a motor with smaller bores and a longer throw could still make 2L but result in a higher revving motor which could power a turbo that size. and calling that thing an eclipse is like calling the pac performance drag car an mx6.

ive been told to do it at the first 500, then again at the 1000, then from then every 5000 as per usual.

top job mate. ill be giving this a go soon.

ive checked bro.. you got nothin

some people actually go to work ON TIME, Liz.

bought one off a local wrecker. thanks anyways guys.

i found a better pic:

happy birthday mate