SECURITY

wellll its the positive crancase ventilation valve. ill show you a piccie: it comes off the front of the plenum and the actual valve part sits in the side of one of the breathers (the one on the left when looking at the motor).

hey guys, ive just found out my pcv is really rooted, so i need one asap. would anyone have one laying around on a spare motor or something or know where i can get one? by the time i get to nissan they'll be closed and they take 2 days to order it in anyway. OR does anyone have a 1 way valve or know where i can get one from asap? cheers joe

just something else to look at mate. theres no real reason... the cas is something weird and strange to me. so i blame stuff on it if ive got no 100% solid explination.

if your coil packs are rooted, you wont be firing on 1 or more cylinders which will make it sound like a rex. but also, as you mentioned it was cold outside, the intake air would have been denser than usual so you would've been running more power (obviously before it cut out) which explains the +2psi in boost as well as the car blowing out the spark at the plugs with a .8 gap. if it was a 1 off thing then id blame it on the air temps. if its continuous then i'd be looking at replacing a coil pack, cas or gapping your spark plugs to .65. i'd be doing the cheaper thing first.

i thought we voted to not let you post anymore.

I havent heard of anything. i havent even heard of that car around here. Also, I put forward a motion that Rabid never posts again, and drives his saab into the mississippi river. All those in favour of the motion, say Aye. All oppose, say Nay.

yeah mine actually lights up (backlight), but it doesnt light up the actual PRND21. this orange thing just moves with the shifter. theres no actual light.

tried the water temp sensor? for some strange reason the water temp sensor effects cold start. ive got the same cold start issue and my water temp sensor is shagged.

im surprised nobody has said "insurance job".

actually.. come to think about it, the bearings on the m3's are REALLY thin. the crank wasnt re-ground and new bearings were put in. im sure that would need for the bearings to bed in to some extent. i guess on a fresh rebuild with the crank reground it would have less of an effect. im just regurgitating information i was fed.

alright so what sizes would you recommend for a single shim on each side?

haha oh ok, just messing with you mate. it looks the goods :sorcerer:

you missed a spot

this guy has a good reputation in the european car industry. hes one of the few builders in syd.

no i think he means these:

just to warn you guys who think thrashing is the way to go: i spent 8k rebuilding my m3. the mechanic was a firm believer of the 'tune it on the dyno' theory. so i was thrashing it over the weekend and it was back in the shop 2 days later from a spun bearing (as all bearings were replaced). the guy who built it has to fork out for another rebuild. he then told me to baby it for the next 1k after i got it back. its not just the rings that need to be bedded in. its the bearings too.

the list goes on and on. but the next mod i'd do would be R31Nismoid.

completely forgot about that one! thanks mate. i just undid the centre mounts and let it hang there, not completely remove it. tying it to something so its not in the way helps too.

it is possible, i did it on my car. first you'll need to undo the engine mount bolts. put a jack under the gearbox housing and jack it up -when doing this watch out for clearances with things like your fan and the shroud, wiring or hoses getting pulled on too hard etc etc.. its probably a good idea to disconnect as many things as you can before you start to avoid damaging anything. the motor will rise with the gearbox. you only need around 60-100mm of clearance to do it comfortably. make up a spacer so you can shove under the engine mounts to hold the motor up if your jack fails (safety first). undo the gearbox to sump brackets and sump bolts. heat up the gasket (if any) holding your sump on with a heat gun (or a hair dryer as i did). drop the sump but dont try removing it yet. the oil pick up is 2x12mm bolts you'll need to undo with a spanner. its in a prick of a spot so watch out. (getting this back in will prove to be a bitch. you'll scream at yourself asking WHY DIDNT YOU TAKE THE MOTOR OUT IN THE FIRST PLACE!... bring magnets as you may drop a bolt 100 times into the sump ) once thats out the sump should come straight out. NOTE: you may have problems clearing the harmonic balancer. get a HB puller ready just in case.

on a FRESHLY built turbo it is. if its not a fresh rebuild it will more than likely be a complete bitch to get off. when i was taking my blown turbo apart, i had to clamp the housing down then get a hammer and smack the cartridge with it till it came off. it took a fair bit of force too. i really dont recommend doing that to a turbo you're going to use as rebuilt turbos use a new cartridge anyway. undo the bolts on it and see if it will come off is the only advice i can offer you.

there are no seals you can damage from outside the turbo mate. were the cartridge bolt-holes exposed? if they were you will need to clean them too otherwise you'll get crap around your bearings, oil and water system.

you can blow some air through it and it'll be fine. you can also take the front housing off. its only 6 bolts and it comes right off. that way you can clean it properly and get rid of any big chunks of engine destroying debris. i recommend marking with a pencil or something where the housing lines up with the cartridge so you dont have any problems with it lining back up when you put it back together.

yeah sounds like you've got a bit of water sitting around your spark plugs. take out your coil packs and check for any water that has ponded in the spark plug hole. dry up as much of it as possible and it should run as it did before.

keep the revs under 4k, and as you take off a standing start, accelerate a bit quick (not too quick) to around 30km/h so the rings bed in properly before the 1000km or 1500km is up. also, try not to hold it at a constant rev, i.e. highway driving.

i dont believe in money you cant see. i wont even get a credit card. everything has been paid in cash.