SECURITY

when its coming from the centre its usually the heater core leaking. you've got 2 options here: 1 - rip out your dash to get the heater core out (someone has done it without taking the dash out though). 2 - bypass the heater by running a pipe between the feed and return to the heater core. this will disable your heating though.

happy birthday chicko

do the oil change before you do the turbo swap so you arent running the turbo without oil pressure for too long. it takes time to fill up the oil filter which means it'll take longer to build up oil pressure before you can start it up.

oh shit! yeah i understood that wrong, too early in the morning for me. sorry guys. that was a major brain fart.

even if it were possible, i dont think resetting an auto box will fix your problem. auto's work on pressures, so if your oil is thinner than usual (worn out & old), it will read pressures lower at certain rpm. so it will still have higher gear changes. do a search in the drivetrain and transmission section and you'll find a guide on how to change/clean the existing oil and filter (the filters are steel mesh so you can clean them instead of replacing them.

edit: sorry, wrong info!

everytime i wash my car bees hump on it.

as above. may need 2-3 soon.

next thing you know you're driving a vl turboz wif fluttaz. and wear shirts 1 size too small.. and do your eyebrows.

yeah thats fine mate. pm sent.

the valve springs would be easier. you dont need to mess around with pliers trying to get the valve stem seal out. but while its all out why not do the valve stem seals anyway? ive put up a DIY in the fabrication section. if you still arent keen to make one then just cover my costs and its yours.

not a problem mate. im 100% sure most supercheaps stock it. ask them to actually go and check their spraypaint cabinets because most of the people who work there dont have a clue.

supercheap stocks it (bankstown)

im 100% sure it does what he is describing with the BC setting on. my mates did it after a reset as i mentioned. i went through the settings to turn it off and it doesnt do it anymore. it is just a thought anyhow, if it doesnt work for him then move on.

you definatly cant use that tool on an rb25

no... my mates r33 had the same problem after he reset his pfc. only came on under load past 5k.

i know where you're coming from but the bottom line is, im not a workshop. i dont need to supply myself with a warranty because if it was still leaking the head would come off and i'd send it to a workshop. but in doing what i did i saved myself an easy $700-$1000. if it didnt work i'd be up for that anyway. that tool is for overhead springs. like in diesel engines. and in the SR20. although its a tight fit there so getting that tool in there is almost impossible.

hey dude, yeah i thought your car looked familiar but i wasnt sure it was you. i cant see shit past my tints at night so i waved anyway lol. already sorted out the farked bulb

try it anyway.

vrs kits are $170 (trade) without the valve stem seals from nissan in sydney.

it might not apply here, but turning OFF the optional boost controller on the pfc off sounds similar to what you're describing. on the hand controller, go to: Etc mode Function Select Boost Control Kit then opposite to whatever its on now (it will be in japanese). if it doesnt work then change it back.

payment and email sent.

have you checked your silicon hoses on your intercooler for small cracks or leaks? i had this and the car flat spotted high in the rev range. go around while the car is on and spray some detergent onto your silicon hoses and see if it bubbles up anywhere.

the sau nsw track day! yeah i'll be changing the pads as well as giving it an oil/filter change too.

legend. thanks mate. let us know how the new lock-bar goes.