SECURITY

i dont see how blue smoke in any case, big or small, isnt something to worry about. if your valve stem seals are shot then it'll only get worse. make sure it is your turbo before writing off the stem seals.

my brother in law had an rs liberty with an imported 2.5L liberty block with the wrx head, also had a rebuilt box with dog gears (T04GTR will remember this car form the last nasho run ). that thing was an absolute monster and handled really well (all upgraded though). one thing i learnt was to watch out for deer though. isnt that right dave?

small puff of smoke on cold start is usually valve stem seals.

so explain to me how my car is at 20deg and making full boost (12psi) at idle.

180,000. they were defiantly due for a change.

i pulled out an extremely ugly one today. it looked pretty worn out from the inside, and was a complete prick to get off. heres a pic, its not that clear, my phone cam couldnt focus on it that well:

what about track times too? instead of having a thread only for 1/4, can we add track times too?

the r32 came out with an rb25de from factory. so dropping an rb25 into an r32 shouldnt have any problems with rego. as far as i know, in NSW - if the car came out with an rb26 as the biggest engine and you drop in another of the same series engine that is 2.6L or smaller than you dont need engineering for it. which means if you dropped in an rb30 you would need engineering. best thing to do would be to ring up your local rta and ask.

ive installed a few of these on a few members cars. the trick i use is to not bolt the turbo on at all, get all the water lines on first. i loosen the dump/front pipe off its bracket under the car so i have movement and bolt it up to that loosely to that with 2 bolts as well as have it sitting on the oil return to keep it stable. it makes it a tiny bit stiffer to move into place but it saves at least 30-45mins of stuffing around with the bolts. if a banjo fitting wont line up, use a long flat head screw driver to adjust it a bit by sticking it through the middle and levering it into shape.

hey mate, the only way the bleeder will work is if it is at the highest point of your coolant system. seeing as though the bleeder was removed your best bet now would be do wait till your thermostat opened up, run your heater on the hottest setting at full power (if its still connected - it doesnt look like it is), then just keep squeezing the top radiator hose to suck out any air that may be in the system and just re-fill as it needs it. get someone to keep an eye on the temp gauge while you do this. if it doesnt pass the normal temp on the gauge after a while then it will be bled. take it for a drive then check your levels (carefully - dont do it when its hot) and keep your eye on the temp gauge.

was that pressure testing or pressurising? i didnt know you had to pressure test anything. if you're serious my email is in my profile.

its not really hard mate. -take your old ones out one by one, leave the bracket they sit on, on the car. -note which way they are facing before taking them out and put the splitfires in the same way. done.

you could double loop the wire OR only clip on one side of the timing light (i.e. dont clip it), if yours is the kind that springs then as cubes said just double loop it. and mine goes to FULL boost on neutral. but its an auto and timing is at 20deg on autos. may have something to do with that.

^^ what he said. the charcoal canister was probably removed on your car so they disconnected it and didnt bother doing anything with the open lines. its for emissions.

you'll be losing a bit of power too. block them with a bit of vac hose with bolts at the end of them, or just run thee vac hose into each other.

time for an update. i did 4 of them today, ill do the other 20 tomorrow. getting the collects to go in where you want them to is an ugly job at first, but you get the hand of it. the first 2 went in after 20mins of stuffing around then the last 2 went in straight away after figuring it out. you've pretty much got to move the retainer so the valve comes up dead centre between the collects, let one of them drop into place, then hold the other one tight and push the valve spring compressor all the way down till its got space to move in. its alot easier than it sounds.

my car makes boost with no load. and its a series 1 r33 gtst. i always thought it was normal.

the studs break because they have been worn out with excessive expansion and contraction with the heat, the material used back then was shit. sometimes they just fall out without doing anything to them. i had a few missing when i took my head off as well as some breaking when i took the manifold off. for $1.50 each from nissan you can have brand spankers in there. easy outs work well, i find using a shitload of wd40 helps as well as the biggest possible easy-out bit that will work. the small ones WILL snap and if they get stuck in there you have to either get a diamond drill or do the nut-welding jobbie.

cable ties are fine in the fuel. although i probably would've used some spliced fuel hose between the pump and the clamps to reduce the noise. thats what i did with my install: you can see that ive put something in between any kind of metal and the pump. also made it sit lower so it doesnt get '1/4 tank syndrome'. which i think will happen to yours as you dont have the standard pick-up any more. my fuel pump sits lower than where the standard pick-up did. i can run less fuel on a track day and not worry about '1/4 tank syndrome'.

+1 for the s13 idea. for ~1.5k you could have a rolling shell. for another 3k you could have a rb30/25 in there if you play your cards right. you might go over, but a project isnt a project unless you blow your budget. it wont take it unless he rebuilds the motor or drops something decent in there.

that thing is tiny! it probably came off one of those older EXAs, it wouldnt need an intercooler of any sort (stock exa's never ran them).

we regard series 1.5 as a mix between series 1 and 2. series 1.5 look like a series 1, but have a few things like the ignition system of a series 2.

ill probably decide if ill put it on the dyno on the day.

you should have told him to try claim it under the lifetime warranty.

looks like a series 1 at the front, series 2 at the back (only the bit that says SKYLINE). it could be a series 1.5 what year is the manufacture date?