SECURITY

unfortunately the plastic one didnt work, it didnt go all the way into the spigot bush for some reason. i went and bought a nissan input shaft from the gearbox factory in revesby for $5. worked great.

for a list of all analog/digital outputs and inputs and what they control, get the gtst/gtr manual off the vipec website. the help file is ACTUALLY helpful. its by far the most comprehensive guide ive read. any issue ive had with my vipec ive searched the help file and its explained it all there in great detail, and it gives you a good idea on how it works.

yeah could be lifters. if its like a clacking noise its most likely lifters (if its coming from the head). try use a thicker oil.

sorted guys, r32-25t was nice enough to give me a plastic alignment tool he had laying around. i'll be looking at getting an input shaft for the next time ive got to do a clutch.

you've got to be fucking troll right? you cant be serious.

ive done a little bit of the preparation work. - replaced throw out bearing - connected braided clutch hose to master/slave - installed the manual pedal - the holes are on the inside of the cabin. just centre punch and drill them out. i managed to do it without taking the dash out, but i'll need to do it to fit the manual brake pedal (but it can wait). i've got my redline shockproof oil ready to go. i just need to get the car high enough to start.

i have a question. will there be any toyotas masquerading as ferraris at the next show?

ok i got it. just wedged a long, thin flat head screw driver between the mount and the bearing, levered it a little and it started to slide off. i put it in a vice and kept going all around it till it was all the way off. getting the bearing on was easy. just aligned it with the bearing facing down, hit the back of the housing thing with a rubber mallet and it went on like a champ.

im after some direction on how to replace the thrust bearing on an r33. i bought the thrust bearing on its own but the one im replacing it with has its 'mount' pressed onto it. is there a way to get these off? does anyone have a guide on how to do it if it doesnt have to be pressed out? cheers, joe

its about that time that i do a manual conversion and im going to attempt it myself. yay. does anyone know where i can get a clutch alignment tool from? or even borrow one for a day or two? cheers, joe

if GCG's over the phone, uninformed investigation says it cant be the turbo, then it must be the turbo /sarcasm. if you arent getting blow by and if your intercooler piping isnt full of oil then my guess is its the turbo. oil could be pushing past the ring that is meant to seal it (not sure what its called).

the effects of heat are minimal in comparison. its because of the larger turbine drawing in and compressing the air, the larger compressor housing allowing larger masses of air to move as well as the larger exhaust housing that allows more air to exit the engine. its the same reason you get an increase in boost when installing a larger sports exhaust. its like if somehow you fit a to4 turbine into a standard rb25 turbo housing (like a hiflow). you'd be able to hit 30psi of boost easily, but the efficiency range of the turbo will be at a much lower point then if it was in a larger housing, you probably wouldnt make any more power above 15psi, because the housing would be at 'max capacity', there would be no point in adding more pressure as the flow would still be the same.

im running a vipec with an auto r33. it runs perfectly. the r33's auto runs off a separate computer so there are no interferences between the aftermarket ecu and the auto ecu . i am unsure about the r34 though.

i blew my motor on the stock ecu. my boost spiked to 16psi at WSID. The Mafia hasn't said a word wrong IMO. for example, you're comparing 10psi from a turbo that is sized like this (o) compared to a turbo sized like this (O) (my examples suck, i know). the air will travel at the same velocity, but the amount of air passing will be far greater on the bigger turbo because its BIGGER, bigger turbine, bigger housing bigger everything. it will create the same boost but more air is traveling. its pure logic mate. my 3yr old nephew was checking out my turbo i had sitting on the floor. after asking me a few questions he said "you should get a bigger one to push more air" he said that while his mouth was on the compressor wheel trying to blow air into it at the same time. in comparison, he is a fucking mechanical genius compared to you.

where is it? what is it connected to? what side of the motor? picture? your description is shit. edit: yes, that is definitely capable of causing the problem you are describing. replace the hose.

does anyone know if a soft-cut is useful when running an N1?

try a 0.8mm spark plug gap. also make sure your AFM is plugged in properly. failing those, you can open up the AFM using a stanley knife and re-solder the pins, there is a bit of sealant around the square part on the AFM that you can cut to open it up. just make sure you re-seal it. funnily enough, if your car is backfiring you will actually make more boost.

try swapping CAS's as well (check timing before and after on both cars though). try and eliminate everything related to ignition. also try unplugging each coil pack one at a time to see which one is dropping a cylinder. so, unplug one and if there is no change in the way the car idles then thats the faulty one. if not - plug it back in and try the next one. unless you're doing mostly drift work, get a 1.5 way.

1. check that your air filter and AFM arent wet. but the most likely is water got into your coil packs somehow. get to your spark plugs and make sure there isnt any water in there. 2. a re-shim will more than likely fix this. is it aftermarket or stock? a lot of guys re-shim their diff and get a few weeks of a good lock then it ends up freeing up later.

you might as well clean your hydraulic lifters while you're at it. sit them in a container full of diesel engine oil. make sure there is around 40mm of oil above each lifter. this will extract the gunk that is inside them. clean the diesel oil off them before you install them though and make sure you keep them in the correct order. dont mix any up.

Turning off the boost controller won't do anything except leave your boost levels unmonitored. If you run a line direct from your wastegate actuator to your cooler piping it should sit at around 8-10psi. Check if this fixes your problem but keep an eye on boost levels at the same time, as well as how your vacuum hoses were connected to your avcr.

when i was doing some data logging a while ago i noticed that the AFM causes R&R at two points. once if you hit ~3.8v @ 3600rpm and again if you're at ~4.5v @ 5000rpm or thereabouts. too much airflow through your AFM causes it to do what you are experiencing, not coil packs.

have you got any further info on where and what brand the muffler is?

i THINK its a hks hi-power exhaust. looks like a 5" tip with a 4" inlet. its a 3.5" most of the way then ends with a 3" where it meets the cat. quite weird but thats what i've got. i think i'll go with a mid muffler and if that doesnt work i'll add another.

I've got a pretty droney exhaust fitted but i want to quieten it down a fair bit. i'm not looking to make it completely silent but at least tolerable for daily driving. i've done a bit of searching and so far i've seen a lot of people say resonators are crap and only some mid-mufflers work. does anyone have any first hand experience with mid-mufflers that work? or have any other useful options?