SECURITY

yeah its more than enough. i can easily get a magnet or pliers in there. ideally it would've been a bigger deep socket - something like a 23-24mm one but i had this one laying aorund.

after a lot of stuffing around i decided to post a thread about finding a valve spring compressor that didnt require the head to be taken off, there arent many tools that let you do this, but Cubes came to my rescue. i got the design from Cubes, which got the pics he showed off sky30. the discussion can be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3027232 all up this cost me around $25 to make, rather than spending $150+ on a proper valve spring compressor specifically designed for doing them while the head is on. every other tool out there is either for overhead valve springs, or the big G clamp ones for while the head is off. NOTE: for using this tool you will need to compress the combustion chamber while the piston is at TDC. also, make sure the car is in either neutral (manual) or park (auto) as the compressed air may turn the engine. DISCLAIMER: use this tool at your own risk, i take no blame for anything that stuffs up etc etc. what you'll need (i got everything at bunnings) 1x length of square hollow piece of steel ~ 1m long = $5 1x length of flat steel (preferebly thicker so it has more compressive strength): $5 pack of nuts and bolts. i used 10mm bolts (8mm thread). $5 1x small extension. i used a 3/8. 1x deep socket (one thats big enough not to slip inside the valve chamber. tools: drill with something bigger than an 8mm drill bit grinder welder or take to an exhaust shop = $5 1. cut the lengths of steel into 3 bits then drill holes: 1x 70mm (attaches to the lever/extension) - drill a hole at both ends of this piece. 1x 55mm (base of T piece) - drill holes spaced at around 38mm (best thing would be to measure the distance between the bolts on your cam brackets incase they are different on other series). 1x ~90mm (this is the long arm of the T piece). 2. get the T piece welded together with the 55mm piece being the base, and the 90mm piece getting welded right in the middle of the 2 holes that you drilled (the hole that you drilled in the 90mm piece should be on the opposite end of the weld). 3. drill a hole into the small extension. going straight across, get it as centred as you can (very important), what i did to make it easier to get it centred was grinding opposite sides flat then centre punching it. the reason i used a small extension was so i could add more extensions to the end of it if i needed to. when you've finished drilling, get the grinder, put the extension into a vice (gripping the body of it) then grind out in between the holes, like this: 4. get your deep socket and grind out the centre of it like this: (this makes it possible to reach in with a magnet or long nose pliers to take the pin out of the valve) 5. get the hollow square piece of steel and drill a hole at the very end of it for the T piece to attach to. also grind out around 30-40mm into the piece from the same end so you have a larger angle to leverage, like this: 6. put it all together with the t piece at the end of it. 7. what you'll need to do now is to either: 1 - mark out each hole by lining it up with the tool bolted to the mounts then drilling the exact number of holes you'll need, OR 2 - drill a hole every 10mm or so so you're not stuffing around if you need to drill an extra hole later. each one is fine, except you might weaken the square metal piece depending on how thick the one you bought is.

go to an auto electrician and get them to test your battery and your alternator.

i took as many pics as i could for you. its not really that hard, just take the front end off the car (front bar and fmic and front bar support if you dont have a fmic as it may get in the way). remove your standard trans cooler. fill the new trans cooler core with transmission fluid then attach the hoses and bolt them on, make sure you dont spill any. attach the hoses to the standard feed and return pipes which sit behind the front right headlight (you'll see them when you take your standard one off). this way you dont spill any oil and you wont have to top up as much when you start the car. use one of the existing holes on the support i used in the pic then run a nut and bolt through it - i used another bolt as a spacer as it bends in at the top. drill a hole for the bottom mount and run another nut and bolt through it. start the car and see if you need to top up the fluid. then off you go. pics:

i cleaned up the valve spring compressor i made a bit, i made a T piece out of some scrap metal i had laying around and got it welded at my exhaust place for $5. im happy with it now. it works well. as soon as the fittings for the compressor get here ill be doing them straight away. here are some pics for anyone who wants to make one themselves:

could be the signs of a dieing battery/alternator.

ill take some pics for you tomorrow. i used the stock location for one of the bolts, then drilled the rest. i made a bracket and drilled the other holes then bolted it to that.

get over it loser. dont tell me you're having a cry now poor baby. make sure you do say hi at the next cruise just promise not to check me out again.

ok deal. ill bring the tweezers big boy.

that'd still be you. buy me a drink first. homos

i think it kicked in after june or july 1st last year so i think you're safe (in NSW). i dont read or watch the news. all my info is fed through useless arguments and debates me and my mates have while playing cards.

yes, its called.. 'you are a homosexual' by 'that dude who writes homosexual music'.

^^ what he said. theres no way it will hit. this is a pic of the head during my build. you can see how far up the spark plug sits.

ill keep this thread posted, with pics. yeah ive bought a connector off ebay that screws into the spark plug hole. then the hose connection for the compressor screws into that, then the compressor hose onto that. it should be sweet. i've also heard of another method called the indian rope method: what you do is get around 170cm of plastic/nylon rope. shove it into the bores through the spark plug hole while at bottom dead centre, keeping some rope hanging out, then rotate the motor close to top dead centre when you start to feel the motor get a bit tight to turn. apparently its common practice in alot of places. although air pressure sounds like a safer option to me!

any idea if this will fit an r33 gtst? if so ill take it.

ok all done. i just went to bunnings and bought what i need. cost me around $20 all up. heres how it turned out: thanks Cubes. you rock my socks off.

that is probably what ill be doing. thanks for that mate!

i know it can be done without and hassle, its just getting the right tool that seems to be the problem. i've got the cams out and the valve spring/retainers exposed. the tool i need is in america, and im extremely weary about sending my money to someone i cant find if they tried to screw me. the tool i need is similar to this: http://www.autobarn.net/xxxw-sp-91400.html and ive got no idea on where to get one in australia. can anyone help me out?

you probably blew your amp or deck. check all your fuses, the ones in the boot next to the battery and the ones in the cabbin behind the dash. electricity is a strange and completely gay world to me, so i make sure i leave most of my serious electric problems to pro's (read: sau pro's). what i suggest is checking with a multimeter all your channels on the amp and the rca's on the deck which will tell you which one has blown. other than that i'd recommend pm'ing manwhore as he seems like he knows his shit when it comes to electrics.

i have no problems running mine on 10psi (i wont turn it up till i get a tune). it still hauls ass but i have an safc that is tuned. if you're running the stock ecu then you'll be running mega rich so it may feel sluggish but i bet as soon as you hit 4500 you wheelspin all the way home

great way to contribute to the forums.

happy birthday :sorcerer:

club lock eh? that would've beat the shit out of my vacuum cleaner stability wise. all the good ideas come when its too late

commodores were meant for this kind of treatment i think. i went through 2 motors and a gearbox. i was driving it around for a few months with a failed main bearing on my 2nd motor till i sold it to a wrecker for $400. its a huge piss off though. i spent around $5000 fixing the thing.