SECURITY

oil pressure will drop with thinner oil. people have used thin oil then used something like motul 15-40 and have noticed the oil pressure increase in all rev ranges, so yes, using a thinner oil will effect oil pressure. increasing the volume of oil wont effect oil pressure. i've heard that over filling the oil in the 32 gtr's helps prevent the bearing spinning problem (dont quote me on that. if its gonna go, its gonna go!). just dont over fill it too much as it might create air pockets from the crank hitting the oil in the sump at a steeper angle. your pick-up could then 'suck in' a bit of air then cause you to spin a bearing. my oil used to get pretty dark, though since the rebuild it doesnt get as dark, more of a browny colour. what i suggest is getting a compression and leakdown test done, that will tell you if its burnt fuel leaking past your rings into the oil (caused by worn rings), or if you just need to flush your motor. to flush your motor get around 2-3 bottles of some decent oil. it doesnt have to be crash hot, just nothing too shitty (at the very least a semi-synthetic). also get some decent oil you plan to run for the next 5000km as well as a new oil filter. - drain the old oil. - pour the flushing oil in then take it for a good 10-20min drive (you should do it for 40-50km, but im impatient). - repeat this till the oil comes out clean. - replace your oil filter and then fill with your good oil.

something to think about would be a water/air intercooler. get one off an rs liberty with the pump and core etc. and it should work fine. they arent very big either and would fit around the same spot the stocky one sits.

thanks for that mate. do you have pics of how it came out?

the r34 gt-t's have the same rods as the gtr's. so you could order some gtr rods and they should go straight in as they are all the same.

ive taken them all off and im ready to primer and paint. the paint i want to use is the deep red/maroon colour, does anyone know where to get it from? also what primer am i supposed to use for high-temp parts? heres a pic of the colour i want to use:

dont worry too much marsss, they didnt want you to come anyway. you know i looooooooooooooooooove u.

marsss just because INS have been on your back, dont take it out on me!

hows the bankstown thread sticky coming along?

it was a good night, even though i came down late! happy birthday girls!

yeah i know, i swear i read it as coil packs when i was replying . must have been in another world. sorry mate.

yeah if its stock then i guess it would be your coil packs. if that fails then id re-gap them to .8

but you're getting more airflow at WOT, and you cant control boost with your foot to the floor.

if you're planning to run over 10psi in the future i'd recommend getting an ebc if you can afford it. but then again, im running 14psi on an mbc. if you were going to get a manual boost controller i'd only go for a turbotech boost controller. probably the most reliable mbc ive ever seen.

if you've turned up the boost, gap them to .8mm

fpr lets you increase the fuel pressure in the fuel system, which will allow you to scrape a few extra kw out of your standard injectors but will be running them at over 100% of their capacity which is a bit dangerous. ecu will let you control things like amount of fuel in the injector pulse and timing. it doesnt only do fuel mix and it does not control fuel pressure.

crd, jem and hitman. all good tuners.

increasing the fuel isnt necessary in the skylines on the stock computer, the computer will allow for this. the more air being passed through (+ boost) the more air the afm will read -> the more fuel the computer will add. you wont need to worry about any kind of engine management if you're only running 10psi on the stock turbo. if you want more power/economy thats when you'll be wanting to fit one. what you'll actually come to realise is that you'll actually be needing to take fuel AWAY from the mix

coil packs or spark plugs. there are a few different fixes for the misfiring problem. #1 - gap your spark plugs to .8mm (do that if not already done) #2 - fix your coil packs, there are a few threads around on how to do this. as for the bov sound, im not too sure if this fits the sound you described but it might be turbo chatter, where your bov doesnt actually open, the noise you're hearing is the air passing back onto the turbo blades.

most people just do what you did till they can get a nipple welded into the piping.

here you go mate

yeah you've got to chop out a fair bit, almost 1/3 of it. my mates got mine, ill take a pic of it next time im at his place.

whats 'fuel thats too rich?' very true. if its a little bit of smoke, its normal. blow off valve wont have anything to do with the on-throttle fuel mixture. if its not the usual skyline scenario, my guess would be the afm as mentioned, o2 sensor or timing. check all 3.

swap over the CAS with another rb20det (make sure timing is right though). i'd put my money on that, or the fuel pump has died.

if you want to speak to someone who had to rebuild due to a turbo failure, pm Duncan. his turbo actually sucked up a washer which chopped and damaged his bored etc. its unlikely that you would need a rebuild after an exhaust wheel failure. a compressor wheel failure is a complete different story. you'd just need to hope the fins in your fmic caught everything. take your intercooler and hoses off and see if there is any scratching in them. that would be an indicator to whether or not it was compressor failure.

woops! sorry about that. if they are a different part number then i dont think they'd work. ring nissan and ask them to look it up or wait for someone to reply here.