Fry_33

Sorry, not sure of the pricing Birds, mine's through insurance and not my fault. I'll get her back next week and will be able to see how it's come up then. Maybe Fuzzy can help answer that one.

Thanks Fuzzy, I'm giving them a go. CJ seems like a good guy.

Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has had any good experiences with any panel shops in SE Melb. Some prick just backed into my parked V36 ? I used to catch up with Mick @ Micolour a bit and had some work done by him at times on the R33. I know he did great work and trusted him but I haven't seen him around for a while though? Thanks!

If yours is a coupe then look for 80944-JL03A (RHS grip cap) and 80945-JL03A (LHS grip cap). These are the brush alloy versions so they don't scratch like the older style ones.

I'm about the same height in an R33 GTST. I have Recaro SR7 seats. The passenger rails are the standard Bride ones. The drivers side is a custom job made by the Recaro distributor, Ideal Seat. It is as low and far back as they could make it. Great guys and it was exactly what I wanted, not just what was easiest for them. It can even go back so far that I can't reach the peddles properly. Oh, and I've tried the R33 & R34 GTR OE seats but didn't find them that much better than the standard ones. I even had Bride Euros but a weld failed so I ditched them. SR7's are by far the best all round I've had. Good Luck

I purchased quite a few of the hoses I needed from RP Wallis (Spareco), http://www.spareco.com.au. They are over in Oakleigh so unfortunately not local to you. The actual website doesn't have the full info on the lengths of reducers etc but the below link has details on their black silicone hose range. http://spareco.com.au/documents/pdf/Performance Hose 22-02-2015.xls new.pdf When looking to fit smaller hose over a larger pipe don't forget to check the barb diameter of the pipe. You first need to get the hose to go over that. Good luck

No probs, hopefully you can get some more room. Us tall guys have to stick together and try to sort out these issues. I ended up with custom rails in the R33 to get as much room as I could after trying a bunch of different seats I forgot to mention mine is a coupe and I assume all the things I posted are for a coupe also. I don't know if sedans differ. The only thing I would probably like is to get the steering wheel a little closer to me now. I haven't actually looked to see if there is a similar mod that can be done with that. I'm a little more cautious of messing with the steering wheel. Would have for shafts to disconnect or wires strip from it moving too far. I figure it works in a similar way with the steering wheel with the steering shaft having a spline to allow it to go in and out.

If you've got a V36 then you can lower the original seat slightly I did this soon after I got mine as I'm ~192cm and have a sunroof. This is the guide I used. V36 seat height/adjustment mod Just had a quick search and found this one for the V35. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like you can get quite as much extra adjustment from dong it in the V35. V35 seat height/adjustment mod - Look for post by GWord256 (#44) on page 3.

Glad to hear it's looking ok now. Timing belts track due to the way they are made.. the tensile cords inside the belt that give them their strength are twisted glass fibres, when put under tension they want to unwind. This causes a slight tracking force to one side. If you flipped the belt around the other way then it would track in the opposite direction. That's the whole reason for the flanges. If you have any angular misalignment of sprockets then it will force the belt to track harder to one side. For standard setups this is not really an issue as everything is machined and in line. As always, once you start modifying things, that's when you need to be cautious of the tracking. As long as everything is line, tension it up and let the belt do what it wants A mark on the back of the belt normally indicates that something stationary has been in contact with it. That will obviously cause heat and can lead to transfer of heat and possibly rubber to other components like the idlers. That's the main reason for me asking about anything dropping down into the cover.

Make sure something hasn't dropped down into the bottom cover. It could be something sitting in between the cover and the back of the belt. It looks like you have the rear flange on the crank pulley, it has a smaller OD than the front one. The belt will sit where it wants on the pulley face. The pulleys should all be aligned as long as the added idler is correctly done. The flanges on the crank pulley will prevent it from tracking off the edge of the other ones.

Just in case it helps someone else.. the buttons have come good... maybe there is a dry solder joint or something? It's been fine again for over a week now. I didn't even open up the dash... fingers crossed it keeps working.

Thanks, don't know anyone locally with one so I figure I'll just bite the bullet and grab another one from somewhere. I need to rip it out and check the number on the back to make sure but I am thinking it could be 28395-JK05B based on some online info.

Hi All, I have a 2008 V36 SP (BOSE + NAVI) and the 6 buttons on both sides of the centre control dial have stopped working (TV AUX, CARWINGS etc). All A/C functions functions seem to work fine. The control dial and buttons on it still work. The DISC, FM-AM, ESC and Hazard buttons below the dial all work still. I noticed they weren't working when the passenger mirror camera didn't come on when I hit the button, then realised it was all these buttons. I have checked the fuses I thought might be involved and found no blown ones. I figured if it was a fuse though that there would be a bunch of other functions not working in the dash. Has anyone else had these buttons fail or even a control module for the buttons fail? I haven't ever taken apart the dash in this so it's not from me messing with something.. no issues for the ~2 years I've had it. Hopefully someone might have experienced and fixed this too. Cheers

BUMP - keep forgetting I've got these. Selling my set of 19" OEM wheels (made by Enkei) from V36 SP model. Fronts: 19 x 8.5" +43 - 225x45x19 (Bridgestone Potenza S001 - On car from Japan) Rears: 19 x 9" +45 - 245x40x19 (Triangle - New for compliance, about 1-2 months use) 5 x 114.3 stud pattern Few scrapes around the edges (only one from me) but in fairly good condition overall. Location = Cranbourne $1500 ONO (Not currently interested in freighting these anywhere, pick-up only) Sorry for those on the dark theme, I can't get the text color to automatically turn white for it.. here's a duplicate in white. Sorry for those on the dark theme, I can't get the text color to automatically turn white for it.. here's a duplicate in white. BUMP - keep forgetting I've got these. Selling my set of 19" OEM wheels (made by Enkei) from V36 SP model. Fronts: 19 x 8.5" +43 - 225x45x19 (Bridgestone Potenza S001 - On car from Japan) Rears: 19 x 9" +45 - 245x40x19 (Triangle - New for compliance, about 1-2 months use) 5 x 114.3 stud pattern Few scrapes around the edges (only one from me) but in fairly good condition overall. Location = Cranbourne $1500 ONO (Not currently interested in freighting these anywhere, pick-up only)

Bump

Hi All, Selling my set of 19" OEM wheels (made by Enkei) from V36 SP model. Fronts: 19 x 8.5" +43 - 225x45x19 (Bridgestone Potenza S001 - On car from Japan) Rears: 19 x 9" +45 - 245x40x19 (Triangle - New for compliance, about 1-2 months use) 5 x 114.3 stud pattern Few scrapes around the edges (only one from me) but in fairly good condition overall. Location = Cranbourne $1650 (Not currently interested in freighting these anywhere, pick-up only)

I thought you would probably have something Chris Just to clarify that is a newer style one that doesn't scratch as easily as the 1st type with the additional holes for cruise? I take it there is no newer version with just the cutouts just on one side for volume and navi/phone etc? I don't have cruise in mine. There is possibly a thread on it so I'll probably be blasted for not searching. It's not as simple as just hooking up the buttons and cruise is active is it? I know that sounds a little silly but wasn't sure if drive by wire throttle bodies just needed the buttons hooked up to make it work? There might be a separate control module that needs hooking up? If it needs more than that, do you recommend anywhere in VIC for installation?

I know I'm bringing this one back from the dead a bit but I noticed it while searching for something else. I am sure that while searching MYG37.com before I purchased one that these was a simple fix for the steering wheel surround. The 'Series 1' style surround is a plastic coated with a rubberised type of paint, similar to the Series 1 R33 dash panel. Apparently it scratched fairly easily. I have a few very small scratches on mine near the volume buttons, possibly from rings on someones fingers or finger nails etc. Anyway it sounds like the 'Series 2' surrounds are different, probably due to complaints. It sounded like they weren't using the same coating, ie maybe it it all plastic or proper paint etc. I don't seem to have written down a part number but look for the steering wheel surround from 2009+ and it should be it. I just had a look and I could only see the Tech package ones from the USA which have the openings for buttons on both sides so they may not suit our version unless you get the extra buttons. Oh, the USA one's will have the extra hole for phone etc on the wrong side. Maybe someone can get a part number for this bezel/trim for the Nissan/Infiniti 2009+?

Figured it was time I posted up a few photos of my new ride.. only done wheels, tyres and suspension. Might raise the rear a little when I go to fix the camber.

I'm 191cm or slightly more and in my R33 S2 have had R33 GTR, R34 GTR & Bride Euro II seats. The GTR seats never quite felt 100% right and didn't really drop me down that much. I bought some Bride Euro II seats and some welds in the front failed 2 times (yes they were 100% genuine Bride). I got sick of it and bought a set of Recaro SR7 seats.. they are the best of the lot and Ideal Seat made me a custom rail which is as low and as far back as you can get it. It is great now and I just wish I had done it from the start. The Recaro range is also good as Ideal Seat can source seats from both Japan and Germany. They tend to get more from Germany from memory as they are a larger build like most of us here. I can definitely recommend Ideal Seat. I'm getting a V36 shortly and doubt that I will change from the factory seats but I figure I would use the SR7's if I did. I won't ever be touching a Bride seat again, the build quality was just not up to scratch as far as I'm concerned. I may have had a bad seat or 2 but I am doubtful of that.

Try this old tutorial I did for photos.. Link/

I got one from Natrad recently. Their Product Number was IHC1013A. There was heaps in stock in Canberra so took overnight to ship it down to Melb. Note, I reused my existing plastic pipe connections. You can see if Nissan has spare rubber o-rings for between the pipes and core, if not you could look at using a gasket goo suitable for water/coolant.

I remember doing a little research about headphones a while back when I thought my Sennheiser ones had died. Turned out to be the front audio jack no my computer though Anyway, after a bit of looking round there were quite good reviews for the Audio Technica AD700's. People would use these and then just a clip on Mic ($10-20). You could also take the headphones elsewhere if you wanted, ie. no mic attached. Main cons were the large wire rings on top. You can get models which are open air or sealed on your ears. I think the AD referred to the open ones. Actually.. you've got me thinking about buying some new headphones.. damn you!

As Dale has already correctly stated, synchronous/timing belts don't slip, they are a positive drive system. You may be thinking of 'slip' when it is actually ratcheting teeth which means it is no longer synchronised (extremely bad for interference engines). A lack of tension is the only real way it can do this. The correct tension keeps the belt teeth in mesh with the sprocket grooves. Timing belts just don't stretch, they are manufactured not to.

Yeah, I noticed it was a sticky a bit after I mentioned it I think it may bump it within the stickies but not 100% sure on that. Anyway I figured it was worth getting a newer post in the thread anyway in case it could possibly get more people doing it.