Fry_33

The only real way a belt can jump is a tooth is from lack of tension or incorrect alignment to start with. If the tension is correct then the teeth stay in mesh with the sprocket. Which belt did you install? Did it have the timing marks on it so that it is easier to align? Hopefully it gets fixed well and you have no further problems.

If you think the squealing/squeaky noise is from one of the auxilary belts then you can just remove them one by one and see if the noise goes away. Make sure these auxilary belts are tight enough too as Micro-V and V-belts work via friction so they will slip if they're too loose.

Just a thought, if you can't find one that's the right dimensions can you get a sleeve (easy sleeve) from a bearing place that you could slide over the 75mm OD ones? A friend had to do this with the input of tail shaft once. Don't quote me on the name easy sleeve as I'm not sure if thats right.

There is an adjustment bolt on the alternator that points to the drivers side wheel. There is a locking bolt on the back of the metal block that the adjustment bolt runs though. You ned to loosen the locking nut and then adjust the belt tension using the adjustment bolt. Then tighten the locking nut. The power steering belt is fairly similar. The air conditioners adjuster is on the small idler right at the bottom. The adjustment bolt is underneath and the locking nut is on the back. I'm sure I've got the R33 manual with the tensioning info in it, I'll try and post up the details. Once you have these tensioning figures you can get a Krikit tension tester for micro-v belts, Gates part number is 91132, there's other brands too I just don't know them. This is a small item that you can use to check the tension of a micro-v belt. These wouldn't really be needed too much on new cars as they have auto tensioners controlled by springs. Having the timing belt too loose is very bad as the teeth of the belt may not stay in mesh with the sprockets. If a belt tooth get loose enough to skip a tooth on the cam gear then the cams timing is changed, this is very bad. This lack of tension and lead to the teeth being sheared off, also extremely bad. Having it too tight will probably make it noisy, if it's only slightly tight then it may calm down and become quiet. Synchronous belts though don't stretch very much over their life compared to a micro-v belt or V-belt. Since they don't stretch much the tension needs to be quite accurate. If you have a noise when the engine is hot and at idle just check it's not you turbo bearing. This can cause an intermittent whirring noise too.

A lot of people say that a Gates timing belt is noisy. As far as I know the standard Nissan belt is made by Gates too, I will try and confirm that though. The Gates racing belt (T1040R) has different tensile cords and a tougher tooth covering compared to the standard Nissan one. These tensile cords are less prone to stretch so the tension might need to be more accurate than the standard Nissan item. Every time I hear that a Gates Racing timing belt is noisy a few posts later it is fixed by correcting the tension. I'll admit I thought I had an issue with my Gates racing belt as other pepople did but it turned out to be not even the belt being a problem. Gates have only had 1 or 2 complaints of noisy racing T1040R belts in all of the ones that they have sold. There is another Gates option to choose, which is equivalent to the standard Nissan one which is a T1040. This is the belt I am running now and it's fine. As mentioned previously by others, you should replace the tensioner and idlers at the same time as the belt. You will void any warranty associated with the belt if you don't. This means that if you don't change the idler and it seizes the belt heats up and snaps, valves hit pistons and you're left with a large bill, this wouldn't be covered. If your cam pulleys are very worn then that could also cause the belt to be noisy. If you read the tutorials and give it a crack it is fairly easy, just time consuming. You basically just need to get the covers off so you can loosen the tensioner, rotate the engine 2-3 times and the tighten the tensioner.

I am just wondering whether anyone knows of somewhere else other than Racebrakes and Nissan to get piston calipers. Racebrakes do have them but not enough, Nissan have them but are around 3 times the price of Racebrakes. Surely someone else must have them.

I swapped my diff over on the weekend. I ran into the dreaded problem with the diff to tailshaft bolts too. I had a ratchet spanner but the head of it is too big to fit in that area so I started using my backup cheapy set of ring spanners. I still couldn't get enough leverage as I didn't have any pipe etc I could put over the spanner. I ended up having to buy a long spanner, I just bought a repco long 14mm. I then had enough leverage to undo it. Another thing that may make it hard is if you remove some of the bolts when the others are still tight. If you remove some bolts then the face of the diff and tailshaft may not be flat and increase the tightness of the bolt. Just crack the seal on all four before removing. I also needed to buy another 19mm socket for the rear diff bolts as my one didn't have enough reach. Repco came to the rescue again, the socket is as long as a spark plug socket. Good Luck

I think it was $250-300, can remeber exactly.

My diff is giving me the irrits at the moment. I have severe backlash which points to a problem with the meshing of the pinion and crown wheel as far as I know. I picked up a used diff from Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs (Paul) - 9568-4887. I have had it shimmed up so the locking is better and will hopefully install it tomorrow. It may have been fine but thought I'd get it done now and then I don't have to have my car off the road while it's done or have to do it any time soon.

In this case it is not a case of overtightening the filter. You need the adaptor to be fairly tight otherwise every time you take the filter off the adaptor will come with it and make extra mess. I think the main problem with this kit is the bronze adaptor. I think the machining of them would probably be to the correct specs but they must coat the metal in the bronze material. Just to get my mates oil filter to screw on properly we needed to run the thread over a wire brush on a bench grinder. We should have stopped there but hindsight is a MF and you don't always think about these things when you are doing the job. From memory there was enough thread on this adaptor but the overtightening of it literally tears the standard oil filter mounting thread apart as it must be a weaker metal. I think my mate was able to screw a filter onto what was left of the standard thread, slam in some oil and drive it to a close workshop. Unfortunately the sandwich plates appear to be one of those items which fall into the 'you get what you pay for category'.

This looks exactly the same as what happened to my mate. Looks like the same sandwich plate too. The reason this has happened is that the bronze coloured adaptor has been overtightened. As it is tightened it tries to squash the sandwich plate but can't, obivously the next weakest point will go. Unfotunately this is the factory thread that the oil filter attaches to. It is easily solved though as the oil filter thread and flange is actually bolted to the block and not part of it. You should be able to pick one up from a wreckers etc. It is a bit of a pain to swap it over I think but it shouldn't have caused any damage to the engine. My mates one came off at full boost in second gear. As soon as we heard it blast off and looked in the rear view mirror the engine was shut off. I think he may have ended up getting another sandwich plate but I will try and confirm that. Good Luck.

Bump

Sold, pending payments, thanks

Item: JBL GTO75.4 - 4 ch Amplifier - 4 x 104WRMS Age: 2-3 few years Condition: Great Price: $200 ono Location: SE Melb Contact: PM or post here Comments: JBL Grand Touring GTO75.4 Amplifier JBL GTO75.4 Specifications: 4 x 104WRMS channels at 4 ohms 4 x 142WRMS channels at 2 ohms 2 x 284WRMS channels at 4 ohms Dimensions (L x W x H): 384 x 313 x 60mm I would prefer pick-up as I wouldn't want the amp to get damaged in the post. If someone interstate is keen though I can send at their expense and I'll package it as best as I can.

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there is a DIY diff shimming thread n the Tutorials section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...Gt-t164288.html My diff has a lot of backlash and its really annoying the hell out of me. I have bought some 1.05mm shims to install in the diff. I will probably a workshop to do the work as I don't have a vice and really can't be bothered to be honest. I want to replace the diff bushes while I'm at it but am unsure if I will be able to do this with the subframe still in the car without too many hassles. I will be shimming up a second hand diff that has no backlash as the shims probably won't do any thing to help that. It also means my car isn't off the road while it gets repaired.

Hi All, I've been looking doing a full rebuild done of my brakes. The seal kits are fairly easy to source and the prices are fairly reasonable. I got a price for new caliper pistons from Nissan and they are around $120-130ea! I didn't expect them to be cheap but that is rediculous. What I was wondering is whether or not anybody knows of any alternatives for sourcing new pistons, other than Nissan. I have searched and cannot find any alternatives. I am sure I saw someone mention that they had their calipers rebuilt with new seal, pistons and everything but it cost them less than $200 for the fronts.. I don't see how that's possible at the moment. Thanks

Hi all, I have searched the forums as best I could but I was unable to fin a detailed explaination of how to replace the bushes of an R33 Diff (or others). It looks like there a a few different options as to the replacements, Super Pro, Nolathane and Nismo to name a few. I am thinking about getting the Super Pro SPF2637K bush kit. Here is a pic of an R33 Diff I borrowed from another thread. The green arrows are the mounting points and locations of where bushes are. It looks like the two front vertical bushes will be easy enough to swap over but the rear ones are mounted in the rear subframe. What I need to know is whether it is possible to swap these over without too many problems? If so could someone post up their process for doing this. Thanks

Bump - Price drop

Check out the file below, it shows which apexi PFC models the FCC3 HC fits. Apexi_Power_FC_and_HC_models.doc Column 6 shows the model number that is on the sticker of the Apexi PFC. Column 7 shows which HC models will work with that PFC. The car doesn't mean a thing, it is whether or not the HC suits the PFC. Hope that helps. Phil

Item: Apexi Power FC Hand controller Condition: Good Price: $250 To Fit: suits the newer types of Power FC's, ie ECR33, and GTR33 models.. lots more as well. Location: SE Melbourne Contact: Post here or PM me Comments:postage will only be around $10 or pick it up.

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Fuel Pump SOLD..

R33 GTST Brake Discs Age: ~75000kms Condition: Good Price: $70 ono To Fit: R33 GTST Location: SE Melbourne Contact: Post up or PM Comments: Disc thicknesses are Front - 29.6mm, Rears - 17.9mm. Minimum thickness for these discs is 28 and 16mm respectivelty so there's still plenty of life in 'em. Pick Up only. R33 GTST Standard Shocks Age: ~75000kms Condition: Good Price: $80 ono To Fit: R33 GTST Location: SE Melbourne Contact: Post up or PM Comments: There wa no problems with them when I swapped them over. Pick Up only. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and piping Age: ~75000kms Condition: Good Price: $30 ono To Fit: R33 GTST Location: SE Melbourne Contact: Post up or PM Comments: There wa no problems with it when I swapped it over. Pick Up only. R33 GTST Standard Fuel Pump SOLD Age: ~75000kms Condition: Good Price: $60 ono To Fit: R33 GTST Location: SE Melbourne Contact: Post up or PM Comments: There wa no problems with it when I swapped it over. Pick Up only. If you think they're over priced then make an offer and we should be able to work something out. Thanks.

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