Fry_33

Do you have any pics of your setup and pipe to post up. I know that's not a fix for you but someone may spot something out of place, and as they say a pictures worth a thousand words

I am looking at getting some Rays wheels for my R33 and have been trying a few places suggested on the forum but I haven't heard back from some. I was trying to find out who the Australian distributor for Rays are but there is no email address on the Rays site to contact and find out. Has anyone got pricing back lately from Access Autos? I tried Rampant aswell but got no response. I have tried RMS and some other places that replied and quoted (thanks), I just like to have all of the options. I couldn't find a list of wheel distributors on SAU, am I blind and have missed it? I am thinking of 18x8.5 on the front and 18x9.5 on the rear. I have an R33 GTST and was thinking I'd need something like +33 offset on the front and +38 on the rear. If you have any pics of how wheels of this size and offset look then post them up please.

It doesn't matter that other guys haven't needed a new fuel pump. It's easy to forget that R33's are actually getting a little long in the tooth and so are their fuel pumps, amoung other things. Each car has a different life so yours could very well be on the way out. If your ECU is asking for a certain amount of fuel to be put in and the pump can't match it you can be in trouble. Listen to Mafia as I'm pretty sure he knows what he's talking about. I don't have any experience with the Hitachi ECU's so I can't comment on that. Do you have a power figure with the standard ECU in and these mods? would be interesting to compare them. If they were similar then you may be better off running with a stock ecu and something like a SAFC. It may also suggest the ECU or tuning isn't the cause. Don't forget the basics either, it's no point having heaps of mods to chase power if you haven't addressed things like old spark plugs, dirty air filters, dirty fuel filters, even oil and filter.

I have used INOX in the past FTW. Spray it on, let it soak, spray on some more, let it soak again and try to losen it. An extension may help give you more leverage. Sometimes you could apply as much constant force as you can to some thing and not budge it but if you provide a shock load ie a quick snap of the force then it can help to break the seal (hopefully just the seal).

I haven't had this problem with my skyline but I did with my old car. The problem was a bad earth, fixed that and it was all good. I'd just do the simple things first like check all connections etc. after that you may need to check the flasher etc. Swap with a mates one if you can to test it. Good luck

You could try blackman & sons (I think that;s the name) in Moorabbin. I have heard they do great work but are may be a bit pricey. I'll be interested to find out from others where they've been.

I agree with this one as Gates make about 75% of the timing belts for all cars. The Racing timing belt is more than likely made on the same mold as the standard one. My Gates racing belt makes a slight noise every now and then, I just haven't gotten around to checking the tension of it as it was done by a workshop.

You could try the double sided tape or foam tape inside the pod to cushion it. You could even try a bead of sikaflex to do the same thing inside the pod. Foam tape could be cheaper and less messy.

When I hooked up my amp and sub it was working fine. Went for my first drive with it in and it was cutting out every now and then. I checked the fuse for the amps power wire and the fuse was a little loose in the holder at one end. I was able to just squash the ends in and now it bites down hard on the fuse and haven't had a prob since.

Hi Bass, I was just wondering what has happened to my black inlet? I am fairly high on the list and I'm guessing that is the order it was paid in. I saw a post of yours in the 2nd Group buy and it worries me a little. "The first group buy just received all of theirs, and yours arrive today or tomorrow!" I know you're not going to rip me off or anything like that but can you let me know if it's been sent or when it will be. If people in the second group buy are receiving them its not really fair if people in the frist one haven't. Thanks

It was a little while ago but my friend got the nissan rear pads for about $115.. depends on the dealership and the guy I guess. I'll probably just get whatever's cheap at Repco etc.

I'm in VIC and use a drum of water that fills with rain water to supply a pressure cleaner. Can also fill buckets with the water for the wash. I have never been to the car wash places but I have heard that you need to be careful of the pre rinse solution. Mainly if you have a new car with a factory paint protection system. This solution can take that straight off and waste the extra $$ you paid for it. I guess it would be similar with wax.

I did my doors a while ago now and it is great. It dropped out a fair bit of cabin noise and I have only done the doors. I probably went a little overboard but oh well. I want to do pieces of my rear parcel shelf and a bit on the inside of some of the flatter panels of the car at the rear. Pics of what I did with my doors

My rear brakes (mainly rear right) are squealing at the moment. I too just changed to RDA slotteds front and rear. I have EBC greenstuff on the front and they appear to be fine. It's the Bendix Ultimates on the rear that worry me (doesn't seem very popular this pad?). I am thinking that for the street these are just too hard or require a bit of temp to get them grippy. On the front they may be fine but the rear propbably wouldn't be doing much work. I might just try the Bendix CT or something else cheap in the rear and see how that goes. A friend had RB74's in his car and no matter what combination of anti-squeel product or method of bedding we used they would squeel badly. Once you got them hot they were great but as soon as you cruised and went to stop that last little bit of light braking would just scream. Put the standard pads in and it was fine. Ended up changing brands on the front and putting standards in the rear.

A friend and I removed some from a guys car about a year ago. We just bought a $2-10 set of sockets. We welded a socket to the lock nut and then just used a ratchet to take it off. We tacked the socket in place and then added a generous amount more. I think we needed an extension bar, depnds how tight they've been put on. One thing to note is it will depend on what the locknuts and sockets are made of. We were having no luck welding the two together but then found something called 'weldall' or something like that. It let us weld together the two different types of metals. It depends on the style of your rims as to how much room you've got to play with too. I'd try the supercheap ones people are talking about.. can't hurt, hopefully. Good Luck

I had some of my car painted by Mick at Micolour. Very happy with the results and after spending a little bit of time down there you see how he goes that extra mile to get things right and not just slap it together. There is a bit extra info and some pics Here Good luck with it where ever you go though.

I went for a 12" Sub and had a go at fibreglassing. It doesn't take up too much room.

Just make sure your RCA leads are nowhere near a power wire. There is only a fairly small amount of voltage going through them so it doesn't take much interference from a powered wire running along side it to stuff with it. In my R33 I ran RCA down the passenger side of the car. My RCA cables had the trigger wire for the amp attached to it but I didn't use it, I ran a seperate thin gauge wire. I ran the front speaker wires from the amp down the right side of the car along with the trigger wire for the amp. The signal from the amp to the speakers is a higher voltage so isn't affected by external interference as easily as the RCA's. I have had no issue with engine noise.

I use rags and carefully stuff them in under the oil filter. They obviously need to be right up against the block so they're under the end of the filter. Sometimes you will have a little spill but the rags soak up most of it and keep things fairly clean.

There is a stickied thread at the top of the cosmetics section that discusses detailing Click Here.. many opinions so you will have to decide which advice to take on board. A few points.. There is no point letting a cutting compound dry.. it is not there as a coating so buff it off with a microfibre towel when you're done with that section of the paint. The longer it sits there the harder it will be to take off. Once you have your cars paint swirl free it is the washing of the car where you will produce the most scratches after that. I don't wash my car with a sponge anymore I use a Microfibre Wash Mitt, some use lambs woll mitts. I wash all of my Microfibre towels and wash mitt after washing the car in the washing machine with a small amount of laundry liquid (DON'T add fabric softner). You can't clean the dirt out of a sponge so it will stay trapped in it and scratch the car next time you wash it. Here is a link that goes through how to wash a car to try and prevent swirls. I know it sounds a bit silly to watch a guy wash a car but the guy is Mike Philips, who is Administrator for Meguiarsonline and runs meguiars how-to classes (he knows what he's talking about). Every little bit of info helps in my opinion so have a look. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com This is my opinion and I know other people will have theirs so don't flame me if you disagree, give me an explaination as to why you do and I'll definitely take it on board.

There should not be an issue of the Gates belts not fitting in the cam gears. Gates make the majority of OEM timing belts for cars around the world (about 70%) so quality won't be an issue. I tend to agree with the gts4diehard, the racing timing belt is stronger and will not stretch as much as the original. This may mean that it requires a different tension to the original. I would love to know if anyone has an actual figure of what the tension should be for the timing belt. I have the service manual and it just says something like "tension timing belt to the correct tension". That is pretty usless info as I can't find anywhere what the correct tension is. It has the tensions for the accessories belts but not the timing one.. stupid. I had my timing belt changed to a gates racing belt by a tuning shop and it hums intermitently. I also had the tensioner, idler, adjustable ex cam gear, and water pump changed at the same time. It is no good that so many people have experienced this.

I didn't cut back the insulation, just pushed it back enough to get the inductive pickup on the wire, it was kinda tight though. I just found an old photo and yeah it was a white wire. I am not sure whether this varies between models though so don't hold me to that. As long as its the fattest wire it should be right, I guess that would be the one providing the coil with the spark as it would need the most grunt for it. When you're checking your timing remember to remove your snorkel and line up with the timing marks on the block, not from straight in front of the engine.

I am not sure what car you have I think its an R33 GTST. Mines an R33 GTST and I checked my timing by using the fattest wire connected to coil 1, I wasn't concerned with what colour it was. I was told by numerous people that the white loop in the coil loom that is at the rear top of the engine is unreliable. Don't forget to let the engine warm up to operating temp and disconnect your TPS.

I changed my brake rotors and pads on the weekend as well as bleeding the fluid. Thought I'd post up some pics and things I found helped. I saw this good Rotor Swap Tutorial afterward I had finished but had a pretty good idea of what to do anyway. One thing extra I did was to use a bit of sand paper to rub over the rear parking brake shoes to freshen up the friction surface. I bought one of the one man bleeder kits and it worked great. I had always been a bit worried about bleeding brake fluid but as long as you are careful its easy. NOTE: Brake Fluid loves to eat your paint so be very careful not to spill it. If you do clean it up when it happens. As mentioned earlier in the thread the bleeding order is. (Start with the wheel furthest from the master brake cylinder and work towards it.) Rear left Rear right Front left Front right Disable immobiliser/alarm Disconnect battery Front ABS Rear ABS Reconnect battery Enable immobiliser/alarm I used a small surynge that I got for free at my local chemist and removed brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir. Once it was down to the MIN mark I topped it up with fresh fluid and put the cap back on the reservoir. Here is a rear caliper showing the bleeder nipple. Just gently pull off the rubber boot. Put the bleeder kit together and connect the clear hose to the nipple. Now use the magnet on the bottle and attach it to the car somewhere HIGHER than the caliper. Use a spanner (9mm?? can't remember exactly) to losen the nipple. This isn't much, only takes 1/4 turn or so. You will probably see the fluid enter the clear hose a little. Now go to the drivers seat and pump the pedal 3-4 times. If the pedal is hard you may need to loosen the nipple a little more. KEEP AN EYE OUT AND MAKE SURE THE FLUID LEVEL IN THE RESERVOIR DOESN'T GO BELOW THE MIN MARK. Go and check the bottle and see if its getting full. If its full, tighten the nipple off, attach the bottle to somewhere LOWER than the caliper and remove the clear hose. Empty the bottle. Check the fluid level in the reservoir again and top up if required. (remember to put that cap back on). I did this at least two times for every calpier. I think it is possible to get different coloured fluids which would help to know when it's fully bled. Just work your way around the car in the order shown above. I changed my rear rotors, pads and bled the rears and then did the front. That way I only need to jack up each end once. Now I just need to bed in my pads..

Good point Daniel.. I probably should have explained myself a little further. Washing is where you will end up swirling the paint most of the time. Here is a link that goes through how to wash a car to try and prevent swirls. I know it sounds a bit silly to watch a guy wash a car but the guy is Mike Philips, who is Administrator for Meguiarsonline and runs meguiars howto classes (he knows what he's talking about). Every little bit of info helps in my opinion so have a look, you'll know some or most of it probably. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com