Fry_33

Go to www.apexi.com. Select the picture on the left (America) Select 'Support' at the top right of screen Select 'Installation Manuals' Select 'SAFC II Instuctional Manual (401-A911)' That might be what you're after

I would have to disagree with that.. I'm no expert but if you are putting circles (swirls) in your paint when you're polishing you are either using the wrong product or technique. It shouldn't matter what direction you are going in, most buffers/polishers use a circular motion of some sort, but used correctly don't put swirls in.

You could try Bayside Bumpers in Cheltenham 03 9553 0876 Guys name is Grant, friendly and helpful. He welded up a few holes in my bumper for me at a good price.

Micolour in Cheltenham (03) 9555 8011. Mick painted some of my car for me and am very happy with the results.

My old coils, R33 GTST Series 2. I think one might be a bit dodgy. - $60. postage included. R33 Standard Gear Knobs, I think these fit most if not all skyline 5 speeds I've got one that is in good condition - $55 postage included. I've got another 2 that are used and not in the best condition - $15ea postage included.

My setup is Fronts (JL Audio TR-650CSi) and sub (SWS-1222D) running off an alpine MRP-F450 amp, sub is bridged. I have some old cheap 6" pioneers for the rear running off the deck for fill. These don't need to be too flash, some don't even run them, so you can do without them until you have more money. I have sound deadened my front doors which seemed to help with the mid bass of the fronts and cut out some road noise. Amp is mounted above the fuel tank and sub is in a fiberglassed box. If you have a newish deck installed but want another one, best to sell it now to get the most you can for it and buy another one. Buy some items like the ones sid suggested. I'd buy a deck, splits, sub, amp, and wiring. You can do sound deadening later if you like. In my opinion, go to a dedicated car audio store and see what they have to say and listen to some of the gear their. I went to Stylyn Car Audio in Moorabbin and I won't be going to JB or strathfield for car stereo gear again. See what you can get for your budget from each store though and make your decision based on that. You want to try and listen to the speakers and sub that you would be installing playing the music you listen to. I found that I definitely wanted a 12" and not a 10" that way. Alpine (not sure of other brands) are just bringing out their new models if I'm not mistaken which means you could probably pick up a decent deck for a low price. This could mean some speakers are being replaced too? So maybe, and these are just rough. Headunit ($400-500) Spilts front ($200-350) Amp (250-400) Sub 12inch (200-400) may buy a box seperate or together. Wiring and fuse ($100) Installation will cost a bit and will depend on the store. You may need to do it in stages. Don't get carried away and say this is all I can afford at the moment and then buy some things you're not completely happy with. If you decide to do it in stages then maybe you can start reading up on how to do some of the stuff yourself and save on installation costs. You can find some great info here: http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php I leave the rambling there, Good Luck

I'm paid up too Cheers

SOLD...

I'm glad some people started to actually be of some help. As stated above by govich to stay legal the catch can setup needs to remain a closed system. The other system does look pretty good though. If you just put one hose on the left cam cover and run that to the catch can and then return the other one to the right hand side of the cover it will not do much at all. It needs to be like Govhichs setup otherwise its a waste of time. The PCV valve is open at idle and then closes once you hit boost, it is a simple one way valve. Off boost the engine sucks air from the cam cover through the PCV valve and then into the manifold. On boost the manifold is pressurised and wants to push air back into the cam cover and the PCV valve stops it. If you don't want any unfiltered Crank case gases getting into your engine you probably need to block the pipe that goes from the cam cover to the manifold. I am not sure on the legality of this but the gases will still pass through the catch can and then go into the inlet if setup like govich. Even if you don't block the PCV valve section then the govich setup will filter the gases and help keep your turbo, intercooler, and pipes a little cleaner. Read though the catch can threads to get more info and to see where a few more people have put theirs. Good Luck

Part number for the one with the lid is 68475-15U20 (I don't think there is a difference between series 1 and 2?) Brand new from Nissan it's about $65

Sounds like the auto elec's suggestion would be the same as mine.. just to be sure it's the same I'll describe the method I'd use. DON'T START THE CAR WHEN DOING THIS.. Would help if you had 2 people.. Turn multimeter to the amp reading setting. Undo the negative battery terminal and touch the positive wire from a multimeter to the battery post. Connect the negative wire from the multimeter to the negative clamp. (This will complete the circuit, needed to measure current) Get one person to watch the current draw. Normally it should be very small but in your case it would probably be a higher reading. Get the other person to start taking out fuses one at a time, replacing as you go. The person watching the multimeter amp reading will say when the reading drops. Whatever fuse is out when it drops is the circuit you have a problem with. Someone will probably have a better idea but that's what I'd try. Good Luck,

Put me down for a BLACK R33 GTST one thanks

Check out this thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=159050&hl= If you search you should find some other threads You can find/get a lot of good info here.. ( formerly Car Audio Australia (CAA) ) http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php

Access Autoworks have most of the bride seats to sit in and try. They are the australian distributor I think so warranty etc should apply. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=166870

Here's a few pics of mine

Gave my car's paint a bit of attention for the first time (apart from a standard wash). Before, dirty and swirls all over it Did a test spot as there's no point doing the whole car before you can do it to a small section. After Process: Washed car with Meguiar's NXT Car Wash Clayed with Meguiar's Quik Clay Random Orbital polisher with Meguiar's Dual action cleaner polish (M83) Random Orbital polisher with Meguiar's Speed Glaze (M80) 2 coats of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. Easy test for NXT Tech wax (possibly for most??). Spread it on your prepped surface as evenly as possible. Let it sit, after a while use a clean finger to swipe off some wax. If you can see nice shiny paint its ready to come off. If it is a smeary streak it needs to sit longer. Have started off with the Meguiar's products as there's heaps of info about them. May start to try some other products later on.

Sorry, it is used. The model number is 415-A001, suits all skylines (except R34 GTT), early Silvias, early S14, Pulsar GTiR.

Hi, I got this with my PFC but have already got an EBC so have no need for it. I'm after $250 for it delivered to your door anywhere in AUS. SOLD

I'm in and paid up for the R33 GTST Rotors F&R Thanks Rianto

I doubt there would be any difference in the mounting points for the different parts between the two models. From the look of the two cars I would say to fit the headlights you would need to change the bonnet and grill. The indicator section of the two lights appear the same so you shouldn't need to change your quarter panels. Once this is done the front bar may not match up with the lights or grill. I think it would fit but may look strange, you could grab a standard front bar or any aftermarket one to suit a series 2.

There are a few installs in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=159050&hl= I listened to a 10" and 12" sub in the audio store and the 12" had a fair bit more bass and was only about $10 more or something like that so made my decision easy.

I am after a drivers side seat rail for an R33 GTR seat. I am hoping to modify it to get a little more leg room. I know the bolt hole locations but am not sure if the rest of the rail system is the same as the GTST ones, anyone know?? If so I guess I will be able to get those much easier. Thanks

I go to Total Tyres in Oakleigh - 8564 1166, they have always been cheaper than anyone else when I ring around for prices. If there's somewhere better in the area post it up for all to see.

Thanks Kinks, I might have put that tps plug back on between attempts at measuring it.. probably just forgot to take it off again, derr me. Will check again tomorrow, I'm not stressed about it as the tuner would have picked it up like you say.

I ended up taking another reading with the pickup on the fattest of the 3 wires going to coil 1. I couldn't make it out properly as the marks were jumping all over the place. The reading was very clear going off the wire loop? I took a photo so that it would pick it up better than my eyes and appears to be at 15º going by the marks shown in the below pics (4th mark from the right). This is with the timing light pickup attached to the fattest wire that runs to coil 1. This is with the timing light pickup attached to the looped wire at the rear of the engine. My CAS appears to be very advanced as I thought for 15º the bolts should be roughly in the centre of the adjustment holes. I might put a lead in between the coil and the spark plug tomorrow, pickup off that and see if that cleans up the signal/light pulses. Thanks for the advice, thanks for the PM grigor