Fry_33

Hi, I have just had a PFC installed on my R33 GTST series 2 and had an adjustable ex cam gear put on at the same time (set at 4º retarded). The car seems fine but I was working on the car and noticed the CAS seemed fairly advanced (turned anti clockwise). I checked the timing, after letting the car warm up, and it appears to be set at 25º BTDC. I used a timing light attatched to the white wire loop at the rear of the engine. Now I don't want to stuff the PFC tune around so I thought I would find out whether I should just leave it or put it back to the standard 15ºBTDC. If I look at the hand controller it shows 15 in the ign map grid it is using. So I was just after people's thoughts Thanks

Sorry Kent, I wrote it a while back and obviously didn't proof read it well, if at all. I just edited it to the way it should have been.

Could I get a price on R33 GTS-t: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305 R=908S 297mm RRP $190+ Cheers Phil

I just had some of my car painted by Mick @ Micolor, great guy and does a good job. I am pretty sure he used to work at ultrafine (mentioned above). My car had a blend mark in the bonnet, a dodgey bumper and some humidity blistering and scracthing all over my rear left quarter panel. Its all good but am now worried when leaving it at shopping centers etc but you can't do anything about that. here's what he acheived, from this: to this: Good luck with your car

Just took a few pics of the car so I thought i'd post a few

I had to replace the spoiler LED part in my Series 2 R33 and it was all one piece.. they're quite expensive too, called Nissan for a new price and nearly fell over. I don't know if Series 1's are the same but try your local wreckers first and go from there. Good Luck

As 95SKY said, leave the nut on the end of the thread for safety to save a broken nose. Then put a hand on each side of the wheel while sitting in the seat (I move the seat forward so I'm nice and close) and pull hard while 'shaking' the wheel. It won't come off if you just pull it, you need to shock or work it off so 'shake' it, ie alternate the pulling force from left to right side. If needed get someone to hit a punch on the end of the thread as you're doing this to help. Good Luck

You're saying it doesn't get above 4psi, I hope you're not talking about the gauge in the dash as that isn't in PSI it's in mm of mercury or something like that from memory. If so then that's about right. I suggest get a boost gague before you play around with boost controllers etc.

I know it might sound funny but the RB20DET PFC is an AP Engineering model which new are around $2000 and up, sometimes without a Hand Controller. All the AP eng models like a lot of others are now discontinued also.. these are rare so $1600 is pretty fair.

I wasn't after anything flashy and wanted to keep some usable boot space so I fibreglassed up a box and mounted the amp next to the fuesbox and battery. Really need to retrim the rest of the boot though now as the subbox puts the rest of the trim to shame This probably won't help you much as you have 2 subs and amps but you never know.

As for the solution, there is now 5 things I can see possibly causing the problem: 1. Bad RCA leads (I do know of some1 that changed them & it fixed their problems)I think I have some Audioline RCA's (probably made quite a few car audio enthusiasts cringe) One thing to note though is they have an Amp trigger wire attached to them and I did not use them. 2. RCA leads too close too speaker wiring (I personally find this 1 highly unlikely) I would remove any unnecessary wires from near it. The small amount of noise you're experiencing my be caused by your speaker wire. 3. Power source to the head unit. I don't think this would be it but you can always try. I would say it would be more to do with the RCA's as they the weakest signal which would be the most influenced buy interference. 4. A need for a power capacitor for the Amp (400W RMS 4 channel Amp) I thought capacitors were only needed for very high end systems, again I could be wrong 5. A need to neaten up the wiring to the Amp I have taken power from the +ve terminal and then earthed the amp to the same chassis ground the battery uses. My RCA's run under the battery and down the passenger side. I was a little worried that it might pick up interference from the ECU wiring but it seems fine. There is some wiring on the drivers side beside the seat aswell and some of the wires seemed a bit thicker than the ones near the ECU so I figured they would affect the RCA's more. My Amp trigger wire and the speaker wires run together down the drivers side.

If your PFC has an RB25 sticker on it then you will need a Hand controller with FCC NT on the back of it, Apexi P/N is 415-N001. This is the older version suited to your PFC. The 415-X001 is for the newer models and is for the ECR33 model PFC, as well as many other car model PFC's. Both R33 model Power FC's work for series 1 and 2 R33's. Jeff, try pm'ing slide (sliding performance) in the business section of the classified section. I'm fairly sure he has or can get new handcontrollers. Eugen, if you post your HC in the for sale sectoin I'm sure someone will buy it. and $350 is pretty reasonable if it is in good nick and almost new. i think most are $390 plus for new ones.

I usually run my 245x35x19's between 40-42psi. I was told by my tyre place to run a minumum of 40psi for 19's. I bought second hand rims and two of the tyres had heaps of little cracks on the inside sidewalls. They said this was due to insufficient pressure. The pressures being run by most of you I would consider fine for 18's but I thought the lower the profile of your tyre the higher the pressure you'd need to run. I have some K104's on the rear and found this on their website. 'Generally, the optimum inflation pressure is about 90% of the maximum level. For high-speed driving, drivers are recommended to use a higher than normal pressure.' Unfortunately my car is in the shop so I can't check to see what the maximum should be according to this.

The KCA347 (rear camber kit) and KCA331 (castor kit) are for the R33 GTST.

ICE is definitely still around. Gerald is now situated in the rear of the building he was in on Dissik St. I'll be getting my timing belt done by him soon, couldn't be stuffed doing it myself. His mate Mic is using the front of the shop for his new panel beating business.. Micolour is the name I think. Both great guys and haven't had a problem with either of them. Mic has a brand new booth and paint system. Try Gerald on his Mobile 0414 359 888

Just because the factory computer runs fine doesn't mean the Apexi will. My car with standard ECU was running fine without the fuse I mentioned, the apexi wouldn't work. The standard ECU's tend to be less fussy with some missing signals and weak power. If all your fuses are there and fine you may need to start looking at your wiring. Pin 58 (black with white stripe wire near bottom of harness i think) needs to have a good 12V going to it. Just unplug your ECU harness and check this with a multimeter. While you are at it check pins 50 and 60 (2 black wires on the bottom of harness I think) and make sure they are good earths. Thats a starting point. good luck

That looks right to me, as far as I can figure out. I haven't installed mine yet. I would think that to get the closest to 355/345 you'd be using groove 2 or 3. Groove 2 looks like it will give something like 360/350 and groove 3 the 350/340. Just remember the 350/340 settings are not set in concrete, this could vary slightly from car to car but should be very close to it. Clip grooves are 8mm apart but that doesn't mean the car height will be altered by exactly 8mm (anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I will be trying groove 3 and see how that goes. It seems as though this is the settings most people are using so it should be fine.

This is in one of Gary's posts on page 4. Note that standard height is 2 circlip grooves up from the standard circlip groove, ~350 mm is the standard circlip groove and 330 mm is 2/3 circlip grooves down from the standard groove. You can pick the standard groove as it has a yellow stripe accros it. Plus the circlip should be in that groove when you get the shocks. The 'standard' groove (350/340) has the yellow stripe as it has been painted with the clip still there.

R33 GTST Series 2 Standard Turbo Standard ECU Boost - 10psi Front/Dump pipe HKS Super Dragger Apexi GT Spec FMIC Airbox w Apexi Panel Nismo Fuel Pump Splitfires 166.2kW

My shocks arrived today ! Thanks for all your efforts involved with this groupbuy Gary, much appreciated.

I could be wrong with this but at least its a quick and simple check to do. Check all of your fuses below the dash on the drivers side. Don't just check they are all ok, check they are all there. I attached the pic of the english translation of it. I was missing the electrics or engine control one. Go through the PFC FAQ it has a section on problems with clicking relays R33_Fusebox_translation.doc

Hi everyone, I was just wondering if anyone has installed one of the Apexi AX53B70-p25 turbos on an R33 GTS-T. I figure my turbo will die one day so I'd try and get a bit of info on replacements. There's a fair bit of info on the HKS and hi-flowed items, just thought I'd try and get a bit of info on alternatives to these. Thanks

As Chris said get the RCA's on their own. They run a very low voltage so it doesn't take too much external influences to alter them (add noise). As I said I ran my amp remote wire and speaker wires from the amp on the drivers side. The speaker wires have a much higher voltage running through them compared to the RCA's therefore they aren't really affected by electrical noise. Don't worry too much about your terminals. Your system is only going to be as good as your weakest point I suppose, which at the moment is your RCA routing. Good Luck

Didn't think I should start a new thread on this so I thought I'd just put it in here. There's an R33 Apexi PFC on ebay.. I have one already, just thought it might help someone else out.