Fry_33

This could mean that your water pump needs replacing. Happened to my mates R33 and was told that there is a small hole that will leak water/coolant when your water pump has had it, nissan mae it this way as a warning sign. You can see it if you look hard from memory. He was also told that once it starts leaking it should be changed fairly soon as it won't last much longer. If it is your water pump then arrange to get your timing belt changed at the same time if it's close to needing it. Good luck with your vehicle man

I am fairly sure that all series 2's had the chrome bonnet S standard. The grille is an option, It should be available from Nissan, be expected to pay $500 plus for it new, could be closer to $1000 from memory actually. My mates S2 was badged by some maggots and they took the Red S off this grille and he couldn't replace it as the grille is technically one piece. There is a very similar Series 1 grille but the lower corners are rounded which suits the Series 1 lights better. The grille can be removed and the plastec part painted, as far as I know they are all grey, so they can be colour coded. The Grille is metal that's been plastic dipped and on a lot of them that I have seen the plastic is flaking off. I have just used the angle grinder with a wire brush attached to remove the black plastic. I will now get it sand blasted and powdercoated which will stand up to stone chips etc much better.

I have noticed this with mine a while back.. as yet haven't bothered to fix it. I am thinking that when I installed my deck and ran new wires, I broke the circuit to it. Maybe the deck and the cig lighter get power from the same loom? can someone confirm or deny this? good luck with it

Just to confirm, these suit R33 Series 1 GTS-T (RB25DET). good luck with the sale.

I agree with Joe. I'm fairly sure that a pool of water, if not from hoses is the sign of a worn out water pump. Nissan makes it this way. It wears past a seal or something sacrificial, can't remember exactly how it works, but it is telling you that it will soon fail. It drips out from a small hole in the housing of the water pump (I think) you might be able to see it. This is what happened with my mates car. If you do need to change it and haven't done your timing belt yet then you may want to change it at the same time also and save labour costs later on. Good Luck

Mint, thanks for the pic and definitely the drawing.. if I choose to do it that way will save heaps of time Can the sub cover/Grille you used be purchased easily? or was that fabricated too? I am thinking of getting a rockford P2 10" 200wrms sub and making the enclosure (0.65cu.ft), just figuring out which way I want to go in terms of materials/shape. I assume yours is a 10", what is the rough size of your enclosure? Is it all MDF or part fibreglass? I would love to make a fibreglass one that looks good but can also be removed easily, with banana plugs as you have or similar. If I was to go part fibreglass I was thinking about making if fit the trim on the RHS of the boot. Do any of you know whether it would be better to remove it and form it to the metal instead. I'm worried that if I made one to suit the trim, it might rattle when the box is against it.

I have been looking at installing an amp and sub in my R33 to improve the low-midrange of my system. I am wanting to install the amp beside the rear fuse box and have ben looking at the jaycar AA0425 4x100w digital, looks like it will fit easily. I have been suggested to also look at an Alpine MRP-F450 4x70WRMS. http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/prod...0〈=en&tab=F The Jaycar amp RRP is $400 and the Alpine is $469 approximately, I am leaning towards the Alpine one, as long as it fits of course, it should. I think 70 odd dollars is worth saving up for this amp, others may disagree.. but thats ok. I am probably going to go with the amp setup like Mint's, neat and functional, just the way I like it. Then maybe a fibreglass Sub box for a 10" in the right hand side of the boot. Maybe a Rockford Fosgate P210S4 (~$230). Do you have a sub Mint, and maybe a pic of it's enclosure? Anyway I shouldn't stray from the topic.

I haven't tried as yet to sort this problem out yet but I have tried at least 5 different pfc's in my car and have had this problem everytime yet they work fine in friends cars. Sometimes they will work but rarely. A few times when they have powered up I have tried to reset to factory settings but it won't. I think it is just the wiring of my alarm. Check out the post below as I think this is where my problem lies, maybe your too? The earthing of the eccs and coil relay seems to be cruicial. It appears both earths for these relays need to go to pin 16 for the saving function to work, maybe stop it from carrrying on too. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=109187&hl= good luck with it.

This is what I was meaning really, there not too much point in saying a car gets this or that many rwkw's unless its comparable. One car could read 40-50kw different on different dynos. On a different note.. Mad, I would be interested to see a dyno graph of yours with the boost or preferrably the AFR's on it. Would like to know what the computer is doing to the afrs to get such a power figure. Have you ever been under the impression that your stock ecu has been chipped/ flashed? Are you running splitfires to cope with your increased boost or are the stockies holding in there for now?

I'm no expert but surely a standard computer running high boost etc, to approx 200rwkw is not going to be as good as an aftermarket programmable ecu. Sure the car might make 200rwkw but on what dyno? If the same car for eg had a PFC put in and tuned (on the same dyno) then it might only make about 200rwkw aswell. BUT I'm pretty sure that an adjustment on the standard fuel settings alone will give you an improvement in low-midrange power which would be quite significant. It isn't all about the peak figure is it? its the area under the power line i think that makes the diff. This would make a SAFC 2 or similar worth installing wouldn't it? but then if you save a few extra $ then you get a pfc, you still have to tune both it's pretty much the diff in cost of the pfc or safc. I have heard the Blitz sbc boost controllers are probably the best followed by the HKS one, this is what I have heard (not experienced), is this what others think? The apexi boost controllers aren't supposed to be very good . Is a Nismo or Tomei fuel pump a better option than the bosch (in tank setup)? does anyone have trouble with the pump picking fuel up when the tank is below 1/4 fuel? The nismo and tomei are just a direct replacement item and should be exactly the same as standard, only with a higher pressure capability. If anyone disagrees with me then thats cool, back it up though and give me (us all) some reasons and I'll gladly accept it, I'm open to suggestion an here to learn. Good luck with the mods Quinny

I'm not fantastic with electronics but here goes. If you have a multimeter switch it to the amp setting. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and put the multimeter in series with the battery , ie -ve bat terminal to multimeter positive lead and -ve multimeter lead to earth cable. This will show you if you have an amp draw. If there is a decent draw then you can start removing fuses one at a time and watch the amp reading (helps with 2 people). If you remove a fuse and the amp draw drops significantly then you now know that you have a problem within that circuit. Simple elimination process. Sometimes peoples boot lights stay on and will drain the battery. Good Luck

I just found this webpage. http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/blitz/tt/index.htm Assuming you have this same one then it looks like the whole turbo timer just taps into everything, ie no cutting and re-routing. Therefore you should be able to just unplug it and crimp and cable tie the vacc hose.

Do as mad says. If the car doesn't start without the turbo timer though you'll have to find out which wires coming out of the turbo timer provide power to let you car start. Then you'll have connect that wire to an ignition wire going to the turbo timer.. or something like that. I would say that its part of the bigger plug, the smaller plug looks like it is for the handbrake cut out.. Good luck with it

Here's the wiring diagram and pinout, don't forget the fuse. If an alarm is installed then sometimes it would directly control the ECCS right?? depending on how the installer hooks it up of course. This would interfere with the PFC and stuff up it's shutdown/save function I'm guessing. This could be a problem seen by a few people who haven't had there engine swapped.

Thanks Dave I knew there was a pcv valve on the plenum side just wasn't sure if on the other side it was a PCV Valve or just some re-inforcement for the pipe so it isn't collapsed by the suction. Would I be right in assuming that this inlet pipe is sucking all the time. I was thinking about installing my can this way. The PCV Valve in between the catch can and the plenum is the one from 'A' on the side of the cam cover. Will just need a male/male hose connection of the right size to replace it I guess. Would be putting a stocking filled with stainless steel wool inside the can too. I had thought about installing it by putting something inside the S-shaped pipe to the plenum and then blocking the turbo inlet pipe. Then running a hose from the passenger side cam cover to one side of the catch can and the 2nd outlet down to near the sump. Just thought if pulled over then I shouldn't have any trouble with the top way.

Hi, Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I just have a quick question about the pipe from the passenger side cam cover to the turbo inlet. Is the lump in this pipe a PCV Valve? shown below. Thanks

I don't know very much when it comes to audio, but I am looking into what to do to improve the sound in my car like yourself. I am going to sound deaden my front doors soon to improve the sound from the front speakers (JL Audio TR-650CSi's, probably could have got something better i know ) Will possibly add a bit of deadening behind the rear seat and in the boot to help reduce road noise also. A pre-out is the output signal from the headunit that goes to the amp to be amplified, as far as i know. Headunits can have none or different variations, ie 1 front channel and one rear, or front, rear, and sub etc The links below will show you what sound deadening is and various ways to do it.. it basically turns your door into a box for your front speakers if you cover the cutouts in the doors and do it properly. Stops things vibrating due to resonance too. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73455 http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installat...it_install.html http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19 Good luck with it slip

Hi, I have a pair of R33 Series 2 front seats with Rails for $350. They are in Excellent condition, came out of my 65000km car just after I got it. I am located in SE Melb. I am only interested in taking pick ups as it is much easier with seats. If interested contact me via PM, [email protected], or 0409 140 915

Bump

If you're still having trouble, try Trevor from the parts section at Nissan Brighton 9563 9977. He is pretty good with the whole import scene. Might need to get it from Japan though. Good Luck If you do find a place that has new ones available post it up as others may want one

I've been looking into sound deadening and looking at getting some dynamat xtreme. Was thinking about putting an amp and sub in but thought I would try sound deadening first and see how it goes. Found this tutorial on the CAA website.. http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19 There's also these ones on the Dynamat website.. http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installat...ation_menu.html If anyone knows of where to get some sound deadening stuff cheaply then please share the wealth What are some of the options for deadening the area directly behind the speaker?

Apexi PFC for sale..

Steering wheel sold, pending payment

Price drop on wheel and MAP Sensor added

Thanks again guys for your input, its a big help. I am steering toward the AA0425 (4x100wrms) or AA0426 (4x130wrms) jaycar amp. As you say these should work the splits better as even when the gain is down to say half it will be around the 50wrms mark (i guess). Do you know if these amps have a multiple gains, to control seperate sections? it looks like it might. That way you can set the splits and sub at different gains yeah? Could be totally wrong there. If so then you can have the sub channels a little higher to help move the subs cone. The AA0426 (4x130wrms) puts out 2x 380wrms bridged which would steer me towards something like the jaycar CS2366 (10" 250wrms) sub or CS2278 (also 10" 250wrms).. these are both dual voice coil units so i think that's just a different way of wiring it up. Don't worry will look into it before installing. Anyway will ponder over all this info and slowly come to a decision. Thanks Phil