Fry_33

There should be plenty around.. below are some examples Selby Acoustics.. Monitor Mounts PC Case Gear

Thought I'd bump this topic in the hope that others may join in. I stopped for a while as I couldn't use it with my ATI/AMD HD6850 GPU after I upgraded. I have recently downloaded the Beta V7 and I can now make use of the GPU again. As far as I can tell this Beta is basically just a new way to change all of the setting in a windows based style, instead of via command line tweaks. I got the V7 Beta from here (NOTE: there is only a 32bit version as 64bit doesn't speed up folding). This link was a good help to get it up and running. If you want to use GPU only then I think you can choose this when installing it.. if not it's no drama. You can change to the EXPERT screen, click on configure, then the slots tab. I ended up removing the cpu slot. Then click on the GPU slot and click Edit. To make use of the HD6850 I made the index values -1. Then go to the bottom of this configure folding slot screen to the Extra Slot Options and click ADD below it and put in the following values.. NAME: client-type VALUE: advanced That was basically it and I could fold after that. There are currently only 2 Projects available for the ATI cards so the number won't really change much at the moment. The Nvidia cards really do have a major edge when it comes to folding as far as I can see. Good Luck!

See if someone can FAST this part number for you and display the image of where it is located. That might help figure out what it is etc?

I purchased my Recaro seats and rails from Ideal Seat Company in Melbourne (Recaro Distributor). They have their own distributors across Australia, check the list on their website for somewhere local. I had Bride seats and rails and I am so happy I upgraded to the Recaros! They are much more solid and just better all round. I had Ideal mount the rail in my car as low and far back as they could as I am 6'3". My car is an R33 too. Their distributors should be able to do the same thing for you.

I just had a quick look in AutoCAD based on a 400 x 650mm core. I added circles for the fan sizes. It is only rough as I'm not exactly sure what the external dimensions are. 16" = Green 14" = Blue 12" = Red Looks like you may be able to fit a 14" & 12" together.

Don't know, that's what I'm asking.. hell, I may even consider using one if they are any good Might even be worth it for replacing the A/C one on the front? I just had a very quick search but couldn't see any reviews..

Has anyone tried these ones from eBay?? they're stupidly cheap for 2750cfm! That could mean they aren't that great but much cheaper than the SPAL one to at least try. NOTE: I see that the SPAL 16" Extreme one has the following warnings, not sure about the ebay one? "The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration." Maybe even 2x 12" ones as it appears they are rated to 1650cfm each. Seems to be basically the same as the rating of the SPAL 12" High Performance.

I'd also consider the Concours 900 Polisher from Waxit (SAU Trader). This looks to have more grunt than a lot of others. I have one of the cheaper Porter Cable units similar to the old Meguiar's ones. It is ok but lacks the ability to get out things like sanding marks. I haven't tried a wool pad with it though. A rotary polisher would be able to do that but requires a bit more skill and care to be taken. I have been thinking about buying one of these Concours 900 units.

Isn't this product mainly diesel or kero? I took the cap off when in a store once and it smelt like crap.

Ah true, forgot about them.. they seem like they are great prices.

I just came across SpeedflowDirect. They have by far the best prices I've come across for Speedflow gear (unfortunately I recently purchased my items ). I just received an email from Andy there they are located in Adelaide but freight won't be much for fittings and a bit of hose. They guys name is Andy. If anyone is in Melbourne, MSCN have 'opened' up a store which is now part of Meridian Motorsport in the same location in Moorabbin/Cheltenham. I missed out on the good pricing but hopefully this might help someone else As urtwhistle mentioned, for simple Metric to AN adaptors, ie for RB block water fittings, you could try hydraulic distributors, ie Hardy Spicer, Hydraulink, Soutcott, Enzed & Pirtek etc. They will refer to them as Metric to JIC fittings. AN is only really used in the Auto industry as far as I can tell. While I'm at it I figured I'd add the items I was getting for my GT-RS (GT2871R) turbo water lines.. WATER HOSE -6 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-06] For 1 Turbo end.. 14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06] BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06] -6 HOSE to -6AN 45 DEG (200 Series) [202-06-D] For other Turbo end.. 14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06] BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06] -6 HOSE to -6AN Straight (200 Series) [201-06-D] For Block water outlet. M14 x 1.5 to -6AN metric adaptor [732-06] -6 HOSE to -6AN 90 DEG (200 Series) [203-06-D] - For Block end I didn't get the Oil fittings (came with turbo) but below looks to be what is required. OIL HOSE -4 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-04] Block end - Oil outlet. M12 x 1.25 to -4AN [358-04], possibly [730-04] -4 HOSE to -4AN Straight (200 Series) [201-04-D or 201-04] Turbo End 7/16" Eye Banjo to -4AN [311-04] 7/16" Banjo Bolt [300-04] -4 HOSE to -4AN 90 deg (200 Series) [203-04-D or 203-04] You may want to use slightly different combos depending on what your setup is so that is definitely not a one size fits all but should give a bit of an idea as to what sizes are required. I found it hard to find all this info in one place. I am going to use the exisitng oil drain parts but you could use a Turbocharger adaptor with some -10AN hose and fittings. You can also do this cheaper with the SS hose with rubber lining but I went the teflon lined hose for added protection. I'm going even further and getting some black Insultherm sleeving from Thermo-Tec to further protect things.

I would say it may be slightly on higher side but then again I haven't see the car in person and aren't in the industry. I got a light tap in the rear of my R33 GTST and it ended up being approx $3.5K. It pushed in the rear metal plate in the boot and some other things causing it to not line up. The Friday arvo that it happened I almost thought it would buff out however once I started to have a look with the panel beater the damage started to show. The V35's might be stronger in the rear than the R33? It looks to be a fibreglass rear bar as plastic ones don't tear like that. So, you have to replace the rear bar to start with which may need to come form overseas? The reo bar needs to be fixed if damage or possibly replaced. It may have pushed some of the structure that it bolts to. The panel shop then needs to make the bar fit the car properly as a lot of the time they won't line up with the car. That can take time which equals cost. To paint a rear bar I'd expect $400-500. Just remember that you cannot always see the damage until some trim is taken off and you can get a good look at things. I'm not just directing this at you but anyone who reads this.. For the sake of everyone on the road (you included) please get some insurance!!!! I would be so fn angry if I was the one you hit. Imagine if you hit something like a BMW 5 series you could be in a world of hurt, more to the point the poor owner of it would.

LOL.. yeah there is definitely more to it than simple lid off What gets me a bit is the 'cooling panels' that people put over their grill in front of the radiator support bar. These basically block the snorkel flow.. I did start to muck around with fibreglass one that had the snorkel sit sitting low but didn't end up finishing anything.

Just to make sure.. I wasn't having a dig, just wanted to mention some observations I've made with a lot of looking at the standard airbox setup for the R33 GTST. I believe the R34 GTT is nearly the same apart from a slightly different snorkel design. I did buy GTT & GTR ones at some point in the past to see if I could use them instead. I did not. I have had the airbox lid removed at a 200rwkw level and it made a noticeable power change and altered the Air/fuel ratios, so it definitely changed things. I have modified a standard airbox quite a bit and it still didn't make any huge improvements so I am going to look at some alternative options.. I'm pretty sure Stao and others found the airbox a limiting factor and had to cut holes in the lid to flow enough air. As mentioned though, being a GT, it's not going to change much in this situation.

The GTR airbox & snorkel design is much different to the GTST one, the GTR is much more free flowing. What works for a GTR will not always work for a GTST/GTT. Best thing to do is probably put the car on the dyno, get a baseline run with the standard airbox, snorkel and filter. Do another run with the lid & snorkel removed, then another with the filter out. This should let you know if there is a restriction there. For a GTST/GTT I would say the answer is yes there is a restriction. You can always try and put in a new filter with/without the lid & snorkel and see if that makes a difference. I have heard that the standard Nissan filter is quite good for flow. I am thinking of using these and replacing them regularly like I would copper plugs. Standard Nissan panel filter is dry too so no oil on your AFM. A pod should provide you with the best flow as with the right one the surface area will be much larger than the panel filter. Not to mention the base of the airbox in the GTST/GTT blocks a considerable area where the AFM bolts to it.

Most Hydraulic hose companies will have fire/heat sleeve. Try places like Hardy Spicer, Southcott or Hydraulink. Most of them will carry the red stuff as this is the main colour used in the hydraulic industry (Red = hot I suppose) However, I just saw recently that Speedflow is carrying a black version, here, page 30

ah, didn't think about the length.. are you using the standard metal long angled drain pipe off the turbo base? If so could you just use a unicoil with the other type of turbo fitting that is just a small pipe fitting?

Thanks for the Apexi dimensions.. bit too large for what I'm looking at. No the R33 doesn't have much room either.. I have a return flow intercooler though using standard piping. If I had one that was crossflow and went over the radiator/drivers cam cover then that gives you more room to play with. The ones that go over the drivers cam cover would be good as it leaves lots of room for a snorkel. I don't want to cut any holes either though so the crossflow I/C is not something I want. In terms of cutting a hole in the lower section it is just an idea to remove some of the restriction to the flow to the pod.. I'm fairly sure that Tao had issues getting enough air into the airbox once boost/airflow levels started to get up quite high for the Hypergear turbos. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact you're trying to suck the surface area of the pod/filter etc though a much smaller snokel/airbox lid inlet. If you open up the box you/re removing a bit of that. If you seal the area around the airbox then the flow past the headlight can feed it. If you have a crossflow intercooler then you already have a feed hole right below it I'm thinking out loud here a bit (Well typing as hard as I can) so I may not be taking some things into consideration. My main point is I guess that the pod removes the full need for the box alone to be sealed.. you can increase the area.

I am playing around with a pod in box idea myself.. I'm trying to use the standard box though.. I know you say that there is stuff all difference between a Pod and Panel filter.. however have you looked at the difference between the surface areas of the 2? I have a pod here, just 120mm diam x ~140mm long.. if you roll this across the panel filter it is about 1.5 times the length for a similar width. I'm all for trying to make things breath as easily as possible. It is also something to try. I'm not sure if the pipe bends I'm thinking of using to get the pod to fit will negate the slightly improved flow? What are the actual dimensions of the Apexi pod? I couldn't seem to find any dimensions which included top diam, bottom diam and length. If you're making up your own box like this, I see no point why you can't try and shield of the remainder of the corner with some sheets at either end of the box.. then open up some holes below and on that shielded side. Since it's a pod you don't need to worry about opening up the base the snorkel can be a restriction one the flow levels get up there. Good Luck with it!

If you have a hose kinking, a Unicoil might stop it? Most Auto Shops should have them.

I don't know if R32's are the same as R33's but mine started doing that when the heater core went. It drains onto the passenger side floor. Check to see if the carpet is wet.

Do the standard R33 GTST airbox snorkels sit fit with aftermarket alloy radiators? Anyone know which ones it does/doesn't work with?

Got any photos of the marks? It should come off without too many dramas. If you work on an area that is too large then it can dry out and cause a bit of grief. A quick detailer should help lubricate it and get it off. Also is the buffer you are using a random orbital one or rotary?

I second this, look up anything done by Nexson. He is very good at making this look OE and perfect (ie lot's of filler and sanding ). Might need to joining the forum to search but well worth it. I do recall going through a massive thread regarding a dash 'upgrade'.. quite ridiculous but still a great display of skills to do what he did.

Even though the PFC has more cells to adjust the standard ECU calculates/interpolates better between them. I think the new HPI covered this subject come to think of it. The standard ECU takes TPS into the load calculation. Not sure if all PFC's do that? So if you got your cells as smooth as the PFC with the Nistune then is should calculate the load points better under dynamic conditions. In saying that I don't know if you can adjust the load points, ie if you can't what happens once you go above the standard redline?