Fry_33

I purchased a set of Toyo T1R's for the front of my car the other week and am very impressed with them. Braking and steering has definately improved. I have tried a lot of tyre places and the best prices I have found have always been Total Tyres in Oakleigh, MELBOURNE.. and no I don't work for them. These guys prices are always cheaper than their competition in my experiences, buy a good margin usually. They have a large range of tyres.. may need to go elsewhere for rims but ask them for a price anyway. These guys are not a bunch of grease monkeys either, they are careful with rims. A friend had some painted rims which 2 other places scratched (after being told to be extremely careful) and these guys haven't made a mark after numerous visits. They can install suspension too, during the week only though. Just though I'd let you know.. If any one knows of somewhere that has cheaper prices in melbourne preferrably in the SE region then POST IT UP, I want to know. I couldn't see one but is there a section for good tyre places stickied somewhere?? Go the T1R's!

Just don't forget that the expected life of the clutch will drop significantly for modified cars.. The standard clutch just isn't made for too much more than standard power. Currently looking at alternatives myself as my clutch is on the way out too.

Good idea bout the BOV. A friend of mine had an RB20DET which stopped producing full boost and it ended up being a partly blocked CAT. The insides had melted/ broken apart and formed a fairly solid blockage. Replaced it and all was fine, could also gut it but not as legal. Could be worth pulling it off for a quick check if nothing else seems to work. If the turbo was standard then I would say it could be a bent turbo shaft. Have seen that also and the series one turbo has a black plastic compressor wheel which made a weird siren like noise as it span up and hit the compressor housing. Anyway, Good luck with your problem

Hi Guys, It was annoying me that my LH side mirror wouldn't angle in when the button was pressed. Rather than go straight out and pay bout $90 for a replacement one and replace the inside of mine I thought I'd try and fix it. I needed to take the door trim off to disconnect the mirror plug and remove the flat triangle trim cover from the back of the mirror. After a quick look, the plug to it was getting power so I undid the 3 bolts holding the mirror on and after dismantling the mirror the majority of the circuitry was getting power too.. found it was pushing the mirror out fine but not in. So I pulled it apart a little more and found that underneath the small circuit board there are two small contacts which push up against the bottom tracks of it. The one which is part of the 'pull in' circuit was just loose in there.. ie no circuit. I just cleaned the area with contact cleaner and then areldited it back in place. waited over night then put it back together and re installed it. It's now working like new. I've added some pictures which may help but they're not great. Just keep undoing the screws til you can carefully pull the wiring through to give you more working room. My friend had some trouble with his mirror as well which we fixed. We think it was from squirting water into the mirror when he was cleaning it. We opened up his mirror and the gears inside were a little rusty. So we saved as much of the yellow grease as we could then started to use contact cleaner to clean it all up then put the grease back in. We also used contact cleaner on the motor an hooked it up to power on it's own to test it. Put it back together and now his is all fine too. SWITCH LIGHT FIX I have also fixed my hazard and demister switch lights in the dash (I thought I'd seen a post on this before but couldn't find it). If they don't light up when you turn your lights on then they've blown. Parts places want to sting you a bit for these sometimes and it costs peanuts to fix. I didn't take any pics of this so you'll have to wing it a bit. Just remove your gauge/dash surround and unscrew your demister and hazard switch (if not working) and Very carfully prize them apartwith a fine flathead screwdriver. it will take a bit of stuffing around, once you get it then it's not too bad. Just go slowly and pay attention to where everthing goes, do the demister switch first as its more straight forward, the hazard switch has a few small parts inside. Good luck. Once apart take the small globe out of its rubber sheath, take note of what it looks like to redo, and replace with one from Dick Smith, Part no P8130 i think about $1 (Radio Parts or Jaycar will prob have similar), they're 3mm 12V. The heat shrink needs to be carefully cut off the globe and the wire stripped back. I used clear globes and put the little coloured condoms back on, alternatively you can get red and blue globes as well (probably diff coloured ones one ebay?). There'sprobably some better globes than these out there so post up a part number if possible. Anyway Good Luck, this obviously won't solve all problems but may help some of you out there. I just came across this thread that is very similar but has pics http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthre...ighlight=hazard

BUMP..

HKS Super Dragger is SOLD, thanks to all those who enquired about it.

Answers PM'd

PM's replied to.. I think I got them all. Just to clarify the HKS Super Dragger is not new.. I I forgot to mention that it has a scrape mark on the bottom, nothing major, every one of these I have seen has had this, they're a pretty big muffler. Sorry Player_Hater, I am not looking at splitting up the system, would like to sell it whole. Thanks Phil

DELETE THIS THREAD..

Sorry man, but I beg to differ. If the product code for the coils is SF-DIS-001 then I'm very sure they are suited to: R32 (all models, GTS, GTS-T-T, GT-R) and R33 (GTR and series 1 models), even HR31. good luck with the sale

Both items are now sold

Bump, Price Drop

Bump, Just the Intake left

Looks like Turbo Timer sold

Hi Drift King, Postage is included in the price (to your door). COD not prefered too much stuffing around and will cost you $9 more Cheers

Bump, Price drop

Thanks Paul.. much appreciated.

Hi Guys, I have an Apexi Power Intake Kit (507-N006) on my R33 GTS-T and was thinking about getting a Z32 AFM for the PFC. Does any one know if I will need to get another Apexi Filter to fit the new AFM or not?? Cheers Phil

Sold

Yeah, got one on my car, piece of piss to install. Got a slight power gain, and now it has that raw induction sound (not too loud though).

PM Sent

Hi Guys, I have a New Apexi Power Intake Kit (507-N006) to suit an R33 GTS-T, R34 GTT, or WGNC34. This is the genuine KIT containing filter, bolts, gasket, and bracket. These kits require no modification and take minutes to install. It is also maintenance free ie no oiling required. The filter also bolts straight on to a Z32 AFM, so if you've replaced the standard AFM it will still fit no probs. SELL FOR $120 - Pickup (SE Melbourne) or $135 at your door, can COD if preferred but will be $9 more to cover the extra cost. Also have a New Apexi Turbo Timer, decided to keep my original one SELL FOR $115 to your door.. can COD if preferred but will be $9 more to cover the extra cost. Location: Melbourne, Bentleigh.. Pick up welcome Payment via Direct Bank deposit preferred You can contact me here via PM or Email: [email protected] Mob: 0409 140 915 Cheers Phil

I have a NEW set of Splitfire Coilpacks (Part Number: SF-DIS-001) These fit: R32 all models including GTR R33 Series 1 including GTR Price: $900 Free Postage. Payment Via Direct Bank Deposit. Mob: 0409 140 915 email: [email protected] Thanks Phil

PM Sent