Fry_33

I would have thought that if the Nistune handles the Z32 AFM's and aftermarket injectors etc that it would be the better option. That is if it can control the idle better than a PFC and peg back the timing it it is knocking. If it doesn't then it is going to be pretty similar as far as I can tell. I haven't read up much on the Nistune as I have a PFC which is why I'm not too sure about it's exact pros and cons. If if is the change in AFM that causes the idle issues with PFC then maybe Nistune is in the same boat depending on what it can adjust for idle? Is there a better option for Nistuning an R33 GTST, ie any pros and cons of Z32 or R32 ECU's?

Thanks, I do remember coming across your thread now. I figure if a 2-Din head unit was installed then you may not even need the English conversion, the software one anyway. It looks like you can use a stand alone head unit and have it output to the standard screen if you wanted. However I could be wrong about that with 2005+ models? If I ended up getting an iPhone for my next phone then there are some apps (REV) that look like they can connect to the car (via BDC-2 plug) and provide you with any info you wanted with regards to economy etc. I doubt that this would be displayed on any of the screens but you can log with that even. For the most part I probably won't even really care about the economy as I'd just drive it and fill it up when I need it. I figure it will no doubt be better than my current R33 anyway I've never heard of Xtrons until now, how do you find it? I'd probably be looking at one of the better known brands for a headunit, something like an Alpine INA-900E, JVC KW-AVX836NAV or Kenwood DNX7360BTNAV. Of course I'd have to research that a bit more. I have a 160Gb iPod classic connected to a headunit now with loss less compression on most songs. I figure if I got a new head unit and an iPhone that I probably wouldn't be able to connect this and my current iPod at the same time. Unless of course the iPhone can connect via Bluetooth and the iPod via the USB port. If you've done something different to the norm then post up your setup!

Thanks, I found this Link which covers info on the different options. So hopefully if the car doesn't have Navigation pack it becomes very similar to upgrading the stereo in any other car by adding a deck, speakers, amp & sub.

I just read on a site before checking back here that the leather was an option, not a Premium only feature. So do you have a trip computer etc at all? I don't need it, just thought the standard one was on the screen so didn't know if you don't have one or it's in the dash like lots of cars. Have you done anything with your sound system yet, Head unit, amp or speakers etc?

Thanks Glen, I forgot about that option. So does that mean you have a 2005+ model minus the sat nav, does that mean it's a non-premium model, and no part leather seats etc? Are the newer rear lights a 2006 (Series 3) only thing? I know the front lights are but can't recall if the rears are in the same boat.

Well, I currently have an R33 GTST and am thinking of getting a V35 350GT (hard decision but I may just do it). I have searched through a fair bit of info in this section but wanted to ask what solutions and systems you've come up with to some things, mainly the audio etc. I realise that the earlier 2001-2004 models can be converted to use the existing screen/replace it and convert it all to English. Obviously this would be the easiest solution to buy if you wanted to have it converted to English and make use of the existing stuff. A later model, series 2 or 3 is more preferable due to them being newer and hopefully lower km's, although who knows what's actually genuine I think the English conversion for the 2001-2004 models is approx $2-3000 if you get the GPS etc all in that. If you just want it converted to English, ie the Fuel Economy, trip computer etc then that was about $300-400? Since the 2005+ model can't be translated yet, what systems and solutions are people currently running in their V's? I'm more interested in this one as there isn't currently a solution taht I'm aware of like there is for the 2001-2004 models. Are you just converting the dash and using a Double-din unit and maybe a separate stand-alone GPS? I see you can convert the AC buttons to English and even move buttons to keep the Dual CC if you have it. However, I think if do this though that you may loose your fuel economy/trip computer as this might be on the lower half of the circuit/board with the standard stereo that is removed when you do that? I guess the iPod/iPhone conversions also come into this too, is the Griffin unit through Chris still the way to go? Sorry if this has all been covered before but all of this info seems to be spread across multiple LONG threads and I thought I could hopefully see what people have been done and keep things in the one place. Maybe it can become a bit more of a 'Check out my V35 System' thread? I'll appreciate any info and feedback supplied!

If you are only doing it because the seats have that type of insert then you could just change the current insert to something else. If you want black then just retrim or get new ones from Recaro. Most of their seats, especially the SR3, have interchangeable sections.

What gave it away?

I'm in.. I don't have a super computer but every little bit helps

I did this.. I think I just some 6mm MDF I had lying around. I basically traced the floor carpet onto it. Since the MDF isn't flexible like the carpet I took some measurements of the actual boot opening and trimmed as required. Once I got it close I just kept trying to install it and trimmed it further until I could get it in. I cut the foam piece off of the original one to help space it up and keep it level. I also used to foam tape to stop some tapping on the boot floor and keep it level when things were on top of it. I stuck the carpet to the mdf (can't remember what I used though). I left the carpet loose up the front section so that you can lift it up and access the hole/handle I cut into it to match the original one. It is a snug fit in/out of the boot with the carpet on the sides folded forward/back. It all depends what you want though. You may want thicker MDF and or a completely flat boot floor, ie side pieces too.

I know that this is a little old but thought I'd at least give a quick reply.. NEO = Neoprene which is also known as Polychloroprene. The different types of rubber compounds the belts are made of give the belts different temperature resistance ratings as well as oil resistances. You can also Nitrile, and HSN (Highly Saturated Nitrile). I would sat that you would want to at least match whatever the material of the standard T1040 timing belt is. There's a number of ways to do the conversion so it all depends on the method you use as to which belt/compound option you have. I think that there were approx 5-6 belts that were possible to use for this. I'm just going off what someone else told me so someone here might be able to correct me on that.

I don't think it's been mentioned yet so I figured I'd mention it.. looks like moved threads don't display the number of replies or mention the last one to reply etc.. eg check out the few threads in the 1st page of the Tutorials section. Good work with the changes.. as a lot of people have said.. can't wait for a dark skin as all this white is hard to look at

If it's a standard turbo with the nylon compressor wheel (cant recall what R34 has) and sounds like a police siren it could be a bent shaft in the turbo. This causes a weird noise, probably by rubbing on the inside of the compressor. Happened to my friends R33 GTST a few years ago. Made zero boost after this happened. Definitely check hoses though.

I suggest sitting in some Recaro seats. If you think they are ok then you can even look to get the rails set up exactly how you want (I guess that goes for any make of seat though). I have gone with Recaro seats and have had R33GTR, R34GTR, Bride Euro II's. I've settled on Recaro SR7's which are basically an updated construction (frame) and look of the old SR3's. The Recaro's are the best of the lot as far as I'm concerned, especially build quality. I am about 6"3' and have always wanted to adjust where I was sitting to help with leg room. Main way to do this is to get your bum sitting lower and further back. Michael and the guys from IdealSeat in Cheltenham/Moorabbin made me up a rail which starts behind the rail in the floor. I can't really touch the pedals with the seat all the way back It took 3 of them to get one of the bolts in for the frame as it is quite low. Great guys and it was no where near as expensive as I was expecting a Recaro setup to be.

I just took the plastic bends off mine and took it down to a Natrad. They found one that was the same.. could be from a Maxima or something similar?

+1, the timing belts are only there for installation assistance. As long as the cam and crank pulleys line up with their marks you'll be fine. as soon as you turn the belt through even one revolution the belt marks won't line up with the marks on the pulleys. Even if there is an arrow on the belt it is only to help with the installation. But if you ever need to remove a timing belt make sure you install it to go back in the same direction as the teeth will have worn etc so you need it to all match up afterwards.

I thought I had seen a thread somewhere on this before for an R33 but I think it was the one for the Stagea I was thinking of which had photos.. thread here. The below was taken form this thread... 1. remove glove box. There are 2 sliding clips at the bottom of the box (stick head into the foot well to see them), you slide them and pull them out, that will let you take the glove box out. There is a retracting cable that is attached to the right hand side of the glove box, that needs to be slid off to let you remove the whole box. 2. remove all the screws behind the glove box, including the clip that the box grabs to in order to stay shut. Can't remember how many, probably 4 or so. This lets you take the whole panel off and reveals the aircon blower and filters. 3. locate the rectangle white plastic thing. there is a metal clip on the bottom, take that off. then slide the whole plastic thing up and that allows you to take if off. 4. now the white plastic rectangle thing is off, the filters are revealed. Might have to give this a look myself to see what condition they're in.. maybe clean or replace them.

You should be able to get the frame modified and move the mounting hole for the buckle to where you need it. It shouldn't take long for someone to modify if they know what they're doing.. and I'd want them to if they're playing around with your seatbelt. Try contacting Idealseat as they are the Aus distributors for Recaro. Idealseat are in Melbourne but they will no doubt have a distributor up there or know of someone to try.

Phil, put me down for the next group buy. Cheers

The search button is you friend Here is a link I added some info to a while back.. Boost Gauge and Pillar Pods, Installation guide. I've actually taken the boost gauge holder I was using in that off and moulded one into the A-pillar to how I wanted it, link here. Good luck

+1 for Spareco!

I am thinking that those experiencing the modified pipe closing up near the BOV, PCV return that it could be a combination of both the level of boost/power you're making and possibly even the condition of your engine mounts. The other thing that could make a difference is the type of turbo you have. The higher the boost/power level you have the more negative pressure you have trying to suck it closed. The more worn your engine mounts are the more the the engine could lean to that side (I think it leans to that side? ). The more it leans the more the pipe is likely to bend at the narrowest point, especially if you have a pipe inside the larger section. If you used a long piece that just fits in there then this could make it worse as that end can't compress at all. If you turbo sticks further out towards the passenger side then that could compound this issue. Yes, I realise that this is a reply to a post from 09, but I can live with that, can you?

Do these metal rings do anything?? This pipe is exposed to suction not boost. I would have thought metal rings on the outside of the hose would only help under boost, ie to stop it bulging out as much? The JJR one looks to just be a rebranded Autobahn 88 one. I bought one of the Autobahn ones a while back and wasn't impressed by the fit (or lack thereof) at all. No matter how I tried to trim it the thing just didn't sit right. I have issues with power dropping off and then coming back above 5000rpm which sounds similar to the issue mentioned previously. I have a 3" piece of stainless in the large ID section of the standard intake pipe so maybe I'm having issues with the smaller end near the bend closing? I'm running 18-20psi with a GT2530 but only getting 200rwkw so somethings holding it back.. figure isn't on the intake side or the exhaust side. Anyone else used one of these intake pipes with the metal rings? If so I'd love to hear about any opinions of what they have experienced.

I'd be happy with two of the three mentioned so far in this thread.. and one of them doesn't start with a D. Why's that you ask, who do you think makes the genuine belt??

R33 GTST Series 2 had a mesh grill too. The below one was on mine when I bought it. As far as I know they're an option. There is another style one (series 1/1.5?) that is different again. It instead of having square edges in the lower corners it is rounded though. Both have the color coded edges.. actually I think I have mentioned this before somewhere else.. Found it.. See here