Fry_33

I would say that's your issue there. If you don't have vacuum leaks etc then I would say it's something to do with the idle setting of the tune. On some occasions my R33 GTST doesn't like to idle. I can be when it's restarted after being warm. Eg idling fine when you pull in to get fuel and then start it up to leave and it starts to carry on. Sometimes get the same when the lights are all on, windscreen wipers and AC too etc I'd be asking your tuner to see if he can fix it.

Glad to see everyone's safe as that would have been a big shock, definitely at that speed. How long since you had a wheel alignment? I only ask as the right hand side tread block in your photo shows that the small grooves in that side have almost worn away completely. Made me wonder if you've got a lot of neg camber or tow dialed in causing a bit of weakness in the sidewall? Are many other people out there running nitrogen in there tyres?

I just thought I'd mention in here that I have ended up purchasing some Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1 tyres instead of the Nitto NT05's. The NT05's do seem like a great tyre but they are more performance orientated. The tread depth of the Nitto NT05's is 7.2/32" (5.72mm) whereas the Dunlop Z1's are 10/32" (7.94mm). Even though the Dunlops are slightly more expensive that is quite a bit more tread depth. I have seen good reviews on the Z1's as being a similar tyre to the Nitto's too so I'll see how they go. I can't really say how good they are yet as I need to lip/roll my guards due to some slight scrubbing

Totally agree, I think an advanced driving course should be part of getting your license. Maybe even an additional day on a skidpan if it's not included in the first one. The first thing I thought of when reading the issue with merging onto the freeway was how many people would ever do that during a driving test? I understand that some might but during peak traffic times is another story again. Oh and I HATE tailgaters. If someone constantly tailgates and has done an advanced driving course then obviously they weren't paying attention to stopping distances etc. I especially hate when someone tailgates you and you have a line of traffic in front of you with no where to go.. wtf is the point of getting as close to the rear of my car as possible? It's just pointless and I am just worried about them hitting my car. I think a lot of the time tailgating and going around a long line of standing traffic and sneaking in up further just comes down to attitude. Obviously they think they and their time are much more important than everyone else, but they only do it in a car as they think they'd never meet you. Would they do that in line at a supermarket or movie ticket line.. me thinks not.. Maggots! Rant over..

About 8:30-9:00am. was in traffic just a few cars behind me for quite a little while, heading east.

Spotted a Black R33 GTST Series 1 on Greens Road this morning, seen it a few times over the past months/year, WPI.. I think??

Try Tyre Power, that's who was going to offer the Nitto's to me. I didn't get a chance to call them back today but I am thinking that these would be the ones they were suggesting. Joey - how good are these in the wet? Are you saying they are good brand new or even used? I'm no tyre design engineer but I would have thought that NT05 design wouldn't have handled that well since there are some quite solid sections to the thread design. I'd figure they'd be ok in damp conditions but not in a decent amount of rain.

I was getting some prices on some tyres and had Nitto tyres mentioned as another option. I haven't really seen too many reviews on here on Nitto tyres. My R3 GTST is used mainly for street used as a daily driver. I don't really want to go for tyres like the NT05 of the Kuhmo KU36 and other semi slick style tyres as I don't think that they would be very good in the wet. Sizes I'd be getting would be 235x40x18 fronts & 265x35x18 Rears. Unfortunately the phone line I had wasn't very good so I didn't hear the model number of the Nitto tyres the shop had. I've had a look at the website here and I figure the tyres that might suit would be the Invo, NT555 or Neogen. I think the tyre shop said that the Nitto's are made by Toyo? I didn't get a price for any of these so will be looking to do that tomorrow. Basically I was just wondering if anyones been using Nitto tyres lately and if so what are they like? If anyone has comparisons to tyres like KU31 of Falken 452's etc then please let me know.

Just a thought but if you have a dyno graph then the more experienced guys will be able to comment more on what that is saying. Does the power delivery feel any different to before? The same peak power doesn't mean the low-midrange is the same as before. As mentioned if you can't make more boost then look at flow/restriction issues. Do you still have the rubber intake pipe from AFM to Turbo? Have vacuum leaks been checked for, eg. hose clamps, split pipes, BOV etc? If you are making similar power then and now and all you changed was the turbo maybe something has been wrong or at it's limit since before and you're only now finding out as you can ask more of it. Good Luck with it

I am going to be needing new tyres shortly and have been searching through a few of the threads. I have seen some people say that the KU36's are not bad in the wet and others which say they are bad. I was assuming that they would be not too good in the wet for the road. Just to clarify that more I am saying bad in the wet, I think they might be ok for a damp road but not if there is standing water and heavy rain. They just don't look like the sort of design that would allow for that. I have been weighing up the KU31 & KU36 choice also. I was even wondering if a combo of them might be ok but realise it would be best to stick the same sort all round for a specific task, ie KU31 for street & KU36 for track etc as mentioned above. My car only gets driven on the street so KU31 tyres look like they would be the better choice for me. Saying that though my next question would be what other tyres are similar in a performance & price bracket to the KU31's from other manufacturers? I can always move this to a new thread if required as I don't want to cover too many subjects at once but I find it is a lot easier to search/find things if similar topics are all in the one thread. I don't have prices but are any other choices to choose from close to KU31's? Eg. Falkens (no idea on prices?)

I've had K104's too and was quite disappointed in their performance after reading so many positive comments about them.

Some traction issues will no doubt come from how the power is delivered. if you have a fairly even rise in torque then you won't spin them as much as there's no instantaneous jumps in boost. Mine hold on ok but with a smallish turbo it comes on fairly quickly. Someone who has a large turbo on that does nothing and then all of a sudden goes from nothing to all in the blink of an eye I'd have thought would struggle with traction? I suppose though if the suspension is set up well then maybe it's not an issue.

If you look at the images you can see between standard and all round performance that the subframe doesn't move. It isn't higher or lower the pineapples just go underneath to help stop some of the squirm/movement caused by the rubber subframe mounts. by grinding off the tops of the rear subframe bushes you are effectively doing the same as the max traction setting but instead of lowering the fronts by putting in a pineapple you are raising the rear. Since the urethane pineapples aren't solid there will still be a little movement and give there. This means that there could still be a way for the rear to store and release energy in the form of axle tramp. obviously there is a change to standard so this will change when/if it occurs. Any flexible joint in the system will add to this which is why some suggested the solid metal pineapples to do this. It effectively locks the subframe in place. There is a down side for street cars though as without the nice new subframe mounts may solve your issue and help tighten up the rear. I hadn't looked up their website in a while but there is now an online catalogue for the Whiteline Plus range here. Your subframe bushes look like they'd be W92446. I figured you would have had the suspension alignment done after all your changes but were they all the same settings? If your new control arm bushes are adjustable they allow you to achieve more or less camber etc. The new ones might be allowing you to reduce the amount of negative camber that you had previously helping to reduce some of your issues. I used to get tramp with Bilsteins, Whiteline springs, 19x8 rims and 245 tyres on my R33 GTST but I don't anymore. I can't say I really went about trying to solve it though. I have changed most of the bushes over to Whiteline adjustable ones just to freshen up the rear. I have pineapples in all round setting (I think) and have replaced the front diff bushes. The rear ones need to be pressed in and out I think, front diff ones might be possible to do on the car?? I've got 18x9 rims with 265 tyres at the rear now.

Daniel (and others with them), How do the KU36's go in the wet with that power? Also what size rim/tyre combo are you running? If it grips really well mind putting up your suspension settings up too, mainly camber etc? I have seen the KU36 & KU31 tyres mentioned a bit lately. I thought that the KU31 might be a little bit better in the wet, only because it is not a semi-slick type design. Wear of KU36 will no doubt be a slight downfall for them. Cheers, Phil

Just a thought but you said it was the lower control arms that improved the issue. Now I figure that the new bushes will be better at doing the job they're supposed to than on old set. The thing that I want to know is what was the alignment before and after changing these? Geometry will play a part in inducing/affecting axle tramp in some way. If the new bushes are adjustable and you now have the alignment good, were you able to achieve the same settings with the old ones? Diff bushes will take a little while to change but for a suspension workshop it shouldn't take too long with a hoist. The painful part is when you're crawling around on the ground to do this. Maybe change the fluid while you're at it? Changing the 4 subframe bushes is a big job. Good Luck

I've seen some images of yours in some other threads SLY. It does look (and sound) good by the reviews I've seen but that model is now discontinued as far as I can tell. In the photo looking at the tips the large bends in the piping under the HICAS look fairly low, does that pass the 100mm test? I've been too busy at work to be able to call Sabbadin yet. I don't know how this will compare in price vs a Fujitsubo, plenty of pricing around for the kakimotos? No one looks to stock the Kakimoto.R's but I think the Fujitsubo Legalis R would look a bit better. I's all a bit hard though as as mentioned there's just no good images of them. You'd think there would be a few angled shots of each model exhaust on a car.. I mean they've gone to the trouble of making it fit on the car so it's been on one at some stage, all they had to do was take a photo, it's not that hard! (end rant )

Thanks Dave, I always thought Sabbadin was up North West.. shows what I know I think I'll have to give them a call or drop in there and have a chat. Is your exhaust "legal" as in fairly quite? Was it comparable in price to the good jap systems? Cheers, Phil

I am steering more towards the following two.. Kakimoto.R (NS309) or Fujitsubo Legalis R (790-15075). Can't really get any great photos to show exactly what they look like which makes it pretty hard to make a final decision. I guess I now need to try and find some good prices for these options. I can see quite a few people selling Kakimoto's but not many seem to deal with Fujitsubo. I figured I'd put it to the people and see if any of you know of any good places check with. So hit me with your suggestions.

Id say this would be excessive knock causing the engine light to flash. Take it easy until you can have it sorted out would be my suggestion. It will probably only be a few load points that may need to be rectified so hopefully nothing major.

Thanks for the pics, I saw the pics of that exhaust somewhere in one of the threads. As far as I could tell it is actually an ER33 NA exhaust, NS310, according to the Kakimoto listings. I think I am tossing up between the Kakimoto.R (NS309) & Fujitsubo Legalis R.. I think the Fujitsubo will look a little cleaner as from the very vague photos I've been able to find the rear muffler looks rounded. The Kakimoto one has the flat square end. I don't know if you really see this much though as the tip looks quite long on the ones in the pic you posted so it could be basically out of view? I haven't really noticed too many companies that stock Fujitsubo though. They appear to be quite a bit dearer than the Kakimotos from what I've seen. I don't know if I've come across anyone stocking the Kakimoto R either come to think of it, all Regu 06&R's.

Thanks for the input so far everyone, much appreciated! Andrew - any chance you could post up a pic of your exhaust? Cheers

Thanks, so Trust PEII looks like it is off the list for now.. If anyone has a behind shot of their R33 GTST with one of these or any of these other exhausts, even if angled then you may as well post em as you may end up changing my mind. I forgot to add the following exhaust options. Kakimoto Regu 06&R (N21307) & Kakimoto.R (NS309) - haven't seen much info on these. Just found them on the Kakimoto website, might help someone else with this info being in the one spot.. Kakimoto ECR33 exhausts Kakimoto.R looks like it exists straight, still can't really be 100% whether Regu 06&R exits angled or straight. Kaki.R has more bent pipe at the end so me thinks 06&R would exit angled as it doesn't have as much of a bend. After a bit more searching the Fujitsubo Legalis R looks like it the same exhaust for R33 GTST & GTR and exits straight Fujitsubo Legalis R It's either that or standard R33 GTST's actually came out with 228kw Still not sure if the Not sure if the Blitz Nur Spec R/RX exhausts exit straight or angled?

I've had an old second hand HKS Super Dragger on my R33 GTST for ages. I was pulled over and told to have VicRoads check the middle muffler as it is 95-100mm off of the ground. I figure I may as well sort it out properly so it isn't an issue again. I was thinking of just having the centre muffler cut out and replaced with a new resonator making sure it is a legal height. I figure that that is going to be approx $200 to do and maybe it's worth replacing the whole catback with a new one? I want something quiet that exits straight out the back, no angled mufflers. I've been searching through a lot of old threads but a lot of the time they are quite old threads and/or there are no great pics of them installed after they've been discussed etc. The other thing is some threads look like they are straight and another angled and they say they are the same exhaust?? So I'm basically after some clarification of what's what, a few suggestions and experiences to help me with my decision. The following catbacks seem like what I want but can't confirm if all of them exit straight or if they come with drone issues (although I guess drone will be more car/mod dependent). Feel free to suggest another brand etc if you think it meets my needs. Trust Power Extreme 2, seen some good reviews for these Fujitsubo Legalis R Blitz Nur Spec RX (might be too loud?) and finally a custom made exhaust. I'm located in SE Melbourne so if you end up suggesting the custom route then let me know of a good workshop. Is there a Kermit (Exhaust maker from the West) clone here over in the East? I have seen the images of this Fujitsubo exhaust but I think they are well and truly discontinued now though Pretty sure it was MintR33 who has/had one of these years ago. I already have a 3" bellmouth dump and 5" Catco CAT. Thanks

100% agree with you, definitely replace these. If you do not replace these and the bearing seizes this just rubs on the back of the belt generating massive heat which leads to belt failure. This can turn out to be engine failure. Obviously there are other belt failure modes that can occur but you get the idea. No one will warrant it in cases like this either, nor should they. They need to be changed as per the Nissan or Gates etc recommendations. I know Gates (possibly others too) are offering some timing kits which now include water pumps too but I don't know if there is one for the RB's?

I say screw the silicone intake pipes that are out there. I thought I'd get one so that I didn't ever face the issue of having the standard rubber one suck closed. I was a bit disappointed with the fit. I tried trimming stuff as best as I could but it just didn't sit right. Since I'd trimmed it I couldn't really send it back. I also wondered whether the standard rubber one was actually a stiffer construction, it just didn't impress me (can't remember the brand so some might be better). Some silicone ones I've seen have a metal spring/reinforcement on the outside but this pipe doesn't see positive boost pressure so I'm not sure that would even do anything. The rubber one has all of the extra external reinforcement to brace it all. I just threw the silicone one out after seeing the metal pipe mod. A local exhaust shop was really good and I got a piece of 3" stainless for free. A knife, couple of hose clamps and some tools to cut/ tidy up the pipe was all that was needed. To keep it looking more stealth make sure the hose clamp screws/ bolts are underneath. Put the 2 ribbed rubber section you cut out over the pipe and match up the cuts so the only difference is the two stainless bans of the clamps showing. This is a great mod as you won't suck the metal closed and it's cheap to boot.