Fry_33

I thought I should say don't get me wrong at all with what I said earlier. I wasn't having a crack the the police officers that have to enforce this, more so the fat cats at the top that give this the go ahead as a good idea. If the police hid in the bushes and spent the same time working on stopping the fks who actually steal stuff from cars or the case themselves then that would be ok. Why punish the public even more than they are, it's like the police are helping the thiefs by adding to the issues for us innocent folk. I really loath those who don't respect other peoples stuff. Ive had 3 cars broken into and a set of number plates stolen and there's basically nothing you can do, same goes for the police. I was under suspicion at first for the plates as someone used them to get petrol and piss off without paying. I didn't realise until the cops called to question me about it. On both occasions I get no help.. have to pay for new plates myself. Dumb VicRoads idiot asked me if I wanted the same number plate and I said well, no actually, I've just explained that some Fwit stole the old ones so that would be stupid. Unless they catch someone in the act of breaking in or sitting in a stolen car what can they do really? They could make a bucket load of money if they actually took the unroadworthy cars issue seriously and not target things like performance cars. I mean how many times have you been driving along and seen a bomb of a car and thought that just looks dangerous? On a side note I can't believe how many new or fairly new commodores and falcons have one taillight out, maybe it's just me? I suppose if they started targeting the easy target of average joe and his cheap knockabout car then the police/government would be very unpopular with the masses if fines/ unroadworthies where handed out in mass. Anyway I'm obviously just rambling now.. rant over Thinking of the fks who have broken into my cars has just raised up feelings of how pissed off I still am about it.

You could always be a smart arse if they ever pull you over on the side of the road. If they're at your drivers door they probably have their car unlocked and would be 3mtrs from it might even have the keys in the ignition. by the way I'm not going to try that one. I agree with the fact that's it's fn dumb. So many issues with violence and knives etc everywhere and they want to pay a cop to walk around a car park checking for unlocked ones. Hang on someone spending time in a carpark checking cars.. kinda sounds like a parking inspector Get them into the areas that need them. Better yet spend time catching and punishing the fks that steal cars and/or the things in them!!

The marks on the belt are for installation assistance only. Even the arrow is the same thing, timing belts aren't directional but the assistance marks are. That's because the distances between the marks are generally different numbers of teeth. If you are going to take off a belt and reinstall it though install it back so the direction it was moving before is the same. You can install the belt with the marks on the back (engine) side so you can't even see them if you have the pulley marks lined up with the ones on the block/covers. As most others have pointed out after it's installed ignore the marks on the belt, refer to the pulley/block marks.

I'm with Just Car and need some repairs done to the bonnet and front bumper (no-hail related). I normally get any work done by Mick @ Micolour as I know he does great work and makes sure it's right the first time. He always tells me I should be with Shannon's as in the event that something does happen to the car you have choice of repairer - no questions asked. Unfortunately I chose to go with Just Car again (and keep $500 in my pocket) and now I wish I had gone with Shannon's. Hindsight is a MF! Basically I got told I need to get a quote from a repairer of my choice and one of their 'approved' repairers. Even though they're backed by AAMI not all AAMI approved repairers are Just Car approved?? Go figure? Anyway I went down to the workshop options I had, (Not Mick unfortunately ) and they took photos. I was pretty busy as it was around Christmas and the car was completely driveable. After about a month I called Just Car to find out what was going on and they said 'oh you need to get the car viewed and assessed' and they gave me the phone number of the guy to arrange this. I called the guy and he said I've got the photos so no need for me to see it in person just choose which repairer you want to use?? Why the FK couldn't they let me know this straight away once they got the photos! I was on holidays and now I need the car for work.. not real impressed by that. No I need to try and arrange a time it's not so inconvenient with work etc now I back. Saying all this I did see a guy in an Audi Q5 the other day which had small dints over every panel and windscreens all cracked, when I looked at him he just looked back and shrugged his shoulders with a smile on his face. My issue is only minor compared to that so Good Luck to all of you with any hail damage, I feel for you!

You could buy one of the HKS upgrade actuators. They'll be fine for the boost levels you're looking at. You can also add in some preload as the rod is threaded.

Don't just tease us with results of more low end/ midrange torque... what did you set it at? and what turbo do you have? was it laggy to begin with and now you've made it more bearable or was it good before and now great? I know it is fairly dependent on the full set up and what works for one engine won't necessarily work for another but the more info available on each persons setup and results the more we all learn. Cheers

When I modified mine all I used was a dremel and a stanley knife. I could have done it all with the knife, just would have taken a little longer though. The plastic is quite soft and if you take you're time you'd be fine. All you need to do is remove the grille, take 2 bolts from either side of the bar and maybe some screws underneath where the grille was. Only thing after that is a clip/tab under each headlight. Use a small screwdriver or something else to lift the tabs and pull the bar forward. Just use these tabs to put the bar back on and locate it to check how you're going with the bar modifications. You might even be able to get the 2 bolts either side of the bar by turning the wheels to full lock. Oh, if you have the plastic under tray on then there's probably a few more screws.

I verified my files and have changed the text in the files back to 510 and at the moment it is full gore again I have turned off the auto update through steam and I'll see how it goes... Oh, and I have L4D & L4D2 running on Windows 7 Home Edition 64-bit with no dramas

+1 for GCG especially since you look to be in Sydney. I had them rebuild my GT2530 and am very happy with their work.

Just backing up what others have said already, check that everything is straight and in line. Also check the flanges on the crank sprocket/pulley are hard up against the sides of it. All timing belts will track to one side or the other due to the way they are manufactured, the flanges are their to keep them from tracking off. If one of the pulleys or idlers etc are misaligned then it will force the belt to track incorrectly. If part of the belt is running over the edge of a pulley do not drive it as the belt could become damaged and fail. Good Luck.

Don't forget the things you can't see.. eg the air conditioner. Filters etc in the system can hold those stinky smoke in them too. Maybe try and use an air freshener/ odor eater and put the air con on full blast and let it idle on recirculate. Nil Odor doesn't smell that well but after a few applications over a few weeks we got basically all of the smell out of a mates car.

I bought a fairly cheap 'automotive' multimeter from dick smith ot radio parts a while back which also came with a K type thermocouple or what ever they are called. You can plug it in and run the wire to the air box etc. Unfortunately you don't get two sensors two compare at one time but you do get a multimeter out of it too. Maybe one of your mates wants one too and then you'd have two readings?

Fair point, if there is a wrong number then let whoever you bought it off or Gates know as they won't know unless they get feedback. You can imagine how many aftermarket parts there are to take care of over the number of makes, models and years of vehicles out there. Imports also make it that little more difficult to get the info on as they won't have as much local knowledge to fall back on.

I should point out that I don't recieve an benefits from selling or promoting Gates Auto products so please don't think that I am rubbishing the PE products to promote Gates or anything similar. I haven't actually used or seen the PE products before. I know that Gates would not be purchasing a auto belt from an external company, it would always be the other way around. I know it wasn't about timing belts but they were mentioned on the same page as the Micro-V belst so figured it was worth pointing out a few things. I meant to be more educational than picking on a particular brand etc.

Don't get caught out by buzz words and flashy marketing.. The PE belts do have Kavlar in them but look at where it is. To start with Kevlar is also known as Aramid. The main component of a timing belt that prevents stretch is the tensile cords. They are glass fiber like the majority of belts on the market, not Kevlar. The Kevlar in the PE timing belts is in the tooth jacket, that's it. I can't see any great differences to the Gates Racing ones or any other 'up market' belt. As for the Micro-V belts again, the Kevlar is just actually fibers mixed into the EPDM undercord compound. Companies have been doing this for years and it is nothing new. The tensile cords are polyester just like the majority of belts out there. Just to put this into a bit of perspective PE look to have been around since the late 1990's. Gates have been making belts since the early 1900's and are the largest non-tyre manufacturer in the world. They are also the largest automotive original equipment supplier.

I just checked the Gates Australia Online Catalogue and they list the following belts for a 350Z. Z33 (2002-08) - 3.5L V6 24v DOHC EFI (VQ35DE) - AC Belt = 4PK945 Z33 (2002-08) - 3.5L V6 24v DOHC EFI (VQ35DE) - ALT Belt = 6PK1170

Oh, sorry, I didn't actually check it. I'll have someone look into getting it updated tomorrow if I remember. I figure it will be the same as the 350Z so it is something that should be in there. I wonder if it's similar to any other models like a Maxima? Gates might already stock it here but it's just not linked to the V35 as an application which happens occasionally.

Make sure you're checking out the Australian Gates Online Catalogue. Go to www.gatesaustralia.com.au then click on Auto Aftermarket and finally On Line CATALOGUE - Automotive. You might have to log in (just some basic details etc) the first time but once you're in I think you can add the webpage as a favourite and not have to worry about logging in from then on. With automotive micro-V belts the part numbering is pretty simple. 4PK915 = 4 ribs, PK pitch (classifies the cross section and distance between ribs), 915 is the length in mm. On cars like mine, R33, they have threaded adjusters and not hydraulic tensioners you have some room to play with so don't need to be 100% on with the length. Just note some belts could have K040360 or similar on it which is the same belt as a 4PK915 just in imperial, so 36.0 inches long. There should be a length that matches the V series skylines.

I've purchased a few things via a differnet buyer in Japan and you do need to be careful if you don't speak Japanese (I don't). It is unfortunate what has happened to you but this is what can happen when something looks like a great price and you don't have all the facts. The first thing I would have looked at is the 2x negative feedback, not that this appears to be the issue in this case though. It says that the heading is an automated translation. You cannot trust these engrish 'translations' so if it's not clear enough or there's conflicting info then have it checked. It mentions Headlight singular twice in the one sentence. Also check what other items the user is selling as if you saw they had two auctions of R34 headlights you might have questioned things further. +1, Tom could have handled the first response better. He may get this often and as mentioned already they probably end up as a huge headache for little reward. If you need to email someone and english is probably not their first language try to be as clear as possible as you could just cause more issues. I email a number of contacts around the world for work and it is unbelievable how so many simple things can be misinterpreted. I can only speak english so I take my hat off to them all, especially some of my European contacts who know 6-7 languages Good luck with the headlight, I hope it all arrives fine. Hopefully other people read what has happened to you and they learn from it.

Ok, figured I'd do a bit of a write up as there's been a few questions and requests for one. I am by no means great at this sort of thing and have only made a sub box (first thing), pillar pod and now the snorkle so I'm still learning. This actually too me a long time to do over many weekends. I was originally thinking of modifying the standard plastic snorkle but decided that was going to end up being tricky as it's hard to get things to stick to plastic. The standard snorkle is also quite restricitve and I didn't want to end up with leaving any of that in it. The first thing I did was to figure out what I could do to increase the inlet in the airbox lid. I just carefully cut the end off in the middle of the lid and moved it to the outsied edge like the opposite end is. I just hot glued this in place and kept going with the rest of everything. I would suggest finalised this first before going on. cut out the new hole in the airbox lid and go and get a plastic welder (bumper reparier etc) to attached the free end to the lid and connect the two sides with straight pieces of the same plastic as the lid PP from memory. clean this up and try not to scratch the lid during this process. Now I go a bit silly with taping up and masking as I don't want to get an FG on things. I taped up the paintwork along the radiator and then cut pieces of cardboard to create flat surfaces and bridge gaps. I also put some rags over the piping before I taped them up. You need to leave a bit of a gap under the snorkle since the engine moves rocks to the side. Once you're happy with everything and sure that no fibreglass is giong to find it's way down into the engine bay you're good to go for a bit of glassing. I put a bit of wax on top of the tape to help stop it sticking. There are also mold release agents you can get for this. If you use polyethylene tape to mask up the FG won't stick to it as it is plastic. it's not always easy to get it to sit flat though. I glassed up the base inside the snorkle so that it had something to sit on and hold it later. Here's what it looked like at this stage. After that cured I marked out the outline and cut it with a dremel (reinforced cutting disc). I sanded that down to remove the major peaks and put on a bit more resin to help smooth it out as this will be the inside surface. I started to mix body filler with a small amount of FG resin added to it to smooth it out a little. I then added a bit of hardner for each and brushed that on. I goes quite thick at the end so you can fill in holes and even build up small pits as it stops flowing. Be careful as the base of mine changed shape slightly at this stage. It's fairly flat so there's not much strength to it. I guess you could add more FG layers or bog to it before you remove it from the engine bay that way it'd keep it's shape better. I sanded this back until I was fairly happy with it. Once the lid goes on it will be harder to modify so best to do it now. Unfortunately I didn't take any before pics of the next stage. I masked up the engine bay again and installed the airbox lid over the top of the masking. I taped up the base and put it in place. It sits on the inside lip of the airbox lid inlet and above the radiator. I added some pieces of cardboard under the bonnet above the snorkle and taped up the entire underside of it taping it on the top of the bonnet using a polyethylene drop sheet. The next part was a bit tricky but basically I maed a channel around the perimeter of the snorkle and then used some PE drop sheet to lay inside this channel. I bought some two-part expanding foam, mixed it up, poured it in and shut the bonnet.. I was freaking out at this point! It didn't help when my mate says at this stage I'm going to laugh my arse off it that makes it's way into the dipstick hole and fills the engine.. friends, who needs em I popped the bonnet to find the following.. Phew, all good!!!! I then cut and sanded this into a shape that I liked. I taped the plug up, waxed it and then FG over the top. I had taped up so that I could split the top and base still so that I could remove the plug. I trimmed that up and then smoothed off the underside. I should have probably joined the top and base at this stage before boggin the top as it would be less likely to flex change shape that way. Quite a bit of bogging and sanding later I had this.. A bit of paint and it's pretty much done.

If you don't want any suspicion from the police then don't wash it much/paint your car silver and don't make it stand out I haven't installed my custom snorkle/airbox lid yet as I still a few things to change. But I have increased the size of the inlet to the lid and internal cross section of the snorkle. If you make your piping run behind/underneath your I/C and back to the standard piping it is going to stand out much less than any non-standard looknig piping running over the engine. You can then use a larger custom snorkle etc to cover some other things slightly it you're concerned. If my setup doesn't provide a great gain then I still have the option of changing the lower section. In standard form the AFM is set quite a long way into the box. This blocks off a lot of potential area of the filter. Mounting it further back will free up this filter area. The inlet pipe will need to be altered also so it would take a bit of stuffing around. This would only be needed though if there is no major drop off in boost/power high in the rev range. If it doesn't drop off then it should mean it's flowing well enough not to be an issue.

I just tried to have a look for some photos of the switches but didn't have any luck unfortunately. I am sure that there is a how to somewhere on the net. I stumbled on it a while after I had sorted out mine. It had really good pics and an explanation of how to do it. The plastic of the switches is pretty thick so as long as you're careful you should be fine. Just use a small screw driver to gently release all of the tabs holding the cover on. just undo it slowly so that nothing flys apart and you end up with a jesus spring Once it's opened just take note of how the current light is installed (take photos as they're always a good reference) and reinstall new ones the same way. If you take photos during the process you can always write your own how to. I honestly can't be stuffed taknig my dash apart at the moment. Do your best not to touch the globe as you put it in as otherwise you may need to replace it a little while afterwards, I did. Can't be sure that that was the reason but I used a microfiber cloth to hold it the second time and it's been fine for over a year now (hazard light that is).

Check out the Custom Fibreglass Enclosed Airbox And Snorkel For Gt-t, Ghetto Gruppe M thread in this section (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Custom-Fibreglass-Enclose-t261635.html). It has a few ideas in there. Any fabrication work you end up doing might not actually improve much over the standard snorkle if you're restricted by room. The standard snorkle is actually pretty restrictive. You may be better off spending a little money on getting the I/C piping to return to stock I/C piping locations. You can then do a snorkle mod and get more beneift from it do to the extra room and less restriction.

Can you put up a pic of what part you want to fix to give a better idea of what you're trynig to do? If it is just really a cosmetic fix you're after you could just cover it in material, stretch old T-shirt etc and coat that in resin to make it hard. Sand back the peaks on it and then put a thin layer of bog on it and paint what ever colour you mant to. If youneed a bit more strength glass some light FG matting on before bogging. You're best to sand the plastic beforehand to roughen up the surface. Fiberglass doesn't really stick to plastics so it helps to make a little bit of a mechanical bond. If you want to make an even better mechanical bond b/w the fiberglass and plastic item you can also drill a few small holes in it and then loosly put some tape over the back of the holes. When you fiberglass on the front side it seeps through the holes and flows into the cavity left by the loose tape. This puts a 'flat' top on the end of it and it can't pull through so it holds it to the plastic. If the plastic part needs to flex don't put anything on that's too thick otherwise it may not flex.

Cheers, does this look more convincing? [attachmen t=237125:Snorkle_FG_2.jpg] The bog is probably what makes it look not look like it.. I have thought about trying to duplicate it but I'm not thinking about any of that until I know this one actually works and does something useful.