PlasticStan

If the oil is cold how can it be hot???? Unless when you say temperature gauge, you mean pressure gauge?

I seem to remember a discussion on here from a few years ago about this, and from what I remember the problem had something to do with the throttle switch signal not being passed from the power fc to the lsd controller. Could be wrong as it was a while ago. Try a search for alsd.

In the Nissan FAST parts program they are called 'Rocker Covers' as well, and that is in the Japanese and English text. For those who don't read Japanese this says 'Cylinder head and rocker cover'. Sorry! Couldn't resist.

They are not 1/8BSPT they are 1/8NPT-27. All the senders are the same thread.

Did you connect RX to RX and TX to TX? If so try swapping the RX and TX wires. For a serial connection you always connect RX on one connection to TX on the other, and vice versa.

Raising the boost will increase the fuel pressure, but it will also increase the manifold pressure on the open side of the injector by the same amount, therefore the pressure difference is constant over the injector. This is the whole reason for the fuel pressure regulator. It maintains an equal pressure across the injector so no matter what the manifold pressure, the same duty cycle of the injector will always give the same volume of fuel.

A push bike goes faster than a car with a f**k'd engine and no turbo mate! LOL

The RB25DET NEO has solid lifters instead of the hydraulic ones on the earlier engine. It also has the 2nd throttle butterfly for the traction control.

Flutter has nothing to do with the wastegate. It is compressor surge, and will happen if the bov doesn't open when you close the throttle, there is nowhere for the compressed air in the intake pipe to go, so it goes back through the turbo, the flutter noise you can hear is the air as it passes over the compressor turbine. This has all been covered a million times on here.

Check the fuses in the boot next to the battery, 2nd from front is the 10A fuse for dash lights and sidelights illumination. In the future, you should disconnect the -ve wire from the battery when doing any electrical work, and you won't have any problems if you accidentally ground a live wire.

Check the Nissan Part number against the following list from FAST. 23710-21U00 RB25DET S1 Manual 1993-08 to 1993-09 23710-21U01 RB25DET S1 Manual 1993-09 to 1994-04 23710-21U02 RB25DET S1 Manual 1994-04 to 1994-07 23710-21U03 RB25DET S1 Manual 1994-07 to 1995-01 23710-21U10 RB25DET S1 Auto 1993-08 to 1993-09 23710-21U11 RB25DET S1 Auto 1993-09 to 1994-04 23710-21U12 RB25DET S1 Auto 1994-04 to 1994-07 23710-21U13 RB25DET S1 Auto 1994-07 to 1995-01 23710-21U60 RB25DET S1 Manual 1995-01 to 1995-08 23710-21U61 RB25DET S1 Manual 1995-08 to 1996-01 23710-21U70 RB25DET S1 Auto 1995-01 to 1995-08 23710-21U71 RB25DET S1 Auto 1995-08 to 1996-01 23710-13U00 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-01 to 1996-06 23710-13U01 RB25DET S2 Manual 1996-06 on 23710-13U10 RB25DET S2 Auto 1996-01 on Wow, there was a lot of changes to the S1 ECU, 6 versions in just 2 and a half years.

Check the fuses in the boot next to the battery, 2nd from front is the 10A fuse for dash illumination and sidelights. If this has blown then it will be because you have wired in the illumination wire on the stereo, so disconnect this one wire you won't need it, if it does anything it will only be to dim the lights on the stereo when you turn on the headlights. It's not really needed IMO. I've seen this happen to a lot a Skylines with new stereos fitted.

If it's not knock, then it will either be injectors or air flow meter maxing out. Check what peak injector duty and airflow voltage on the hand commander are.

This is the tacho input on the dash, it's the 2nd from left on the top of the leftmost plug.

They're not to help you, they are to make it easier for you to be seen by other drivers. You use them as well as your dipped headlights, you don't use full/main beams in fog, as the light just reflects off the fog and blinds you.

Craved they both are supposed to light up. I fixed mine a while ago, I wrote a guide showing how to do it in the following thread on gtr.co.uk: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthre...ighlight=hazard

It's not a handbrake light, it's a brake warning light. If your pads are worn then your fluid level will drop. If it is too low then the brake warning light will come on. Although if it is the handrake then the switch is on the handbrake.

Her you go.

Sounds more like the brake fluid is too low, check that first and also check the pads aren't worn right down.

If you want to fit an adjustable fpr, then the Nismo adjustable fpr (Part No. is 22670-RR580) is a straight swap for the standard RB25DET fpr.

LOL , I'm sure that's helped Pauly_Bro heaps. ! As for the differences between a series 1 and 2 here are all I can remember: Air bags, series 1 had driver and passenger as optional extra, series 2 had drivers as standard and passenger as option. Interior, series 1 has rubber paint on dash which scratches easily, series 2 has hard plastic dash. Nicer seats as well. Slight change in the dashboard warning lights as well, look better on the series 2 IMO. Body kit, series 1 standard bumber looks a bit tame, there was an option of the body kit which looks good on the series 1. Series 2 has much more aggressive looking bumber with round fog lights and indicators. Headlights are also different on series 2. Spoiler is bigger on the series 2. Engine, basicly the same, but slight change in the ignition system, with the series 2 having ignition power transistors built into the coils. Turbo on series 1 is alloy compressor with ceramic turbine. Series 2 turbo is plastic compressor and ceramic turbine. I'm sure there's more differences than that, but those are the main ones. As for which is best, try out both yourself, it will be your car so only you can really choose.

For a R34 GT-V the vin number can't be ECR34. Using ER34-020879 fast comes up with this, hope it's some help.

There isn't a 'Tacometer[sic] sensor' as such, the ECU gets the angle of rotation of the camshaft from the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor), from this it can calculate the speed of rotation of the crankshaft, and using this generates a negative pulse for every rotation of the crank. This pulse is the signal on pin 7 of the ecu, and that is what the rev counter uses. Sounds to me like a problem with the rev counter instrument itself or the wiring between the ecu and instrument cluster, as there is very little that could go wrong with the ECU.

Agreed. My R33 GTS25T sometimes makes the tappet noise on cold start up, not all the time and when it does it only last a couple of seconds until the oil pressure builds up, and the oil reaches the head. As for white smoke on start up, it does just sound like condensation in your exhaust evaporating. Nothing to worry about, as long as you don't see white smoke under full throttle acceleration when the engine is warmed up.

You sound very sure. Have you tried it, the stock BOV cannot be used as a VTA BOV because it leaks at idle, it has nothing to do with the ECU.