PlasticStan

If the ECU is getting error 34, then the knock sensors are either unplugged or faulty. This means the ecu will be using the safe fuel and ignition maps, this means retarded ignition and rich fuel mixtures so that will be why your car feels so slow. I would check the connections for the knock sensors first, could just be unplugged or need a bit of a clean. If not then you will need new knock sensors.

The Apexi PowerFC doesn't retard the timing at all when it senses knock, your supposed to do that yourself with your right foot .

He would have the R33 ECU as well, so the solenoid will work. But if you want max boost all the time then just bypass the solenoid.

It should be plumbed like this: Hose with t-piece goes from I/C pipe to actuator. hose from t-piece to solenoid. Other hose on soleniod feeds back into intake before turbo. This results in air being bled from the I/C to Actuator hose when the soleniod is open, thereby reducing pressure on wastegate actuator and increasing boost. Hope this helps.

On my RB25DET I get between 7.5 Bar (108 Psi) to 8.0 Bar (116 Psi) on a cold start, drops to 2 bar at idle when it's up to working temperature. So 110 Psi (7.6 Bar) is good oil pressure for a cold start I'm using 10W40 Motul 300V Synthetic oil.

If we're talking about ecu fuel cut when afm reaches max voltage and injector duty cycle is above a certain limit, this feels VERY violent. When it happens the force is usually enough to push you foward quite a bit. (You wouldn't want it to happen if you're not wearing a seatbelt )It only happened to me once on my series 1 GTS-T, and that was when the boost controller decided to stop working, and it reached 1.1 bar before the ecu fuel cut stopped it. Nearly c*****d myself thinking something was busted, but it ran fine after that. The other safety feature of rich and retard used to happen on mine as soon as boost went over 10psi, it would run very rich, causing the plugs to foul and I was getting the usual misfire above 4500rpm caused by the fouled plugs. Changed to PowerFC now and with the fueling sorted it feels like a completly different car, even though I still have stock turbo and injectors. Should be amazing once I fit the 555cc injectors and get the turbo highflowed

Check the BOV hasn't seized open.

My HKS FMIC kit came with the nipple included. Just needed to screw it into the already threaded hole. One thing though, clean the threads with a tap (or with a bolt of the same size), with the pipe off the car to clear the threads of all the paint. If you fit the nipple with the pipe on the car, all the paint will strip from the threads, and get sucked into your engine

Because that's what car I've got, along with everyone else with an R33 GTS-T, they are all Type M :D Side skirts, larger front bumper etc, were optional extras available on any R33 GTS-T Type M.

I'm sure the map sensor will not be in the intake pipe next to the filter, it has to measure the pressure in the intake manifold to give the correct load signal to the ecu. Pressure in the filter will always be atmospheric pressure?

All R33 GTS-T are 'Type M', there is no such thing as a non 'Type M' GTS-T. The confusion comes from the R32 GTS-T which came as a standard model or 'Type M' which came with some extras as standard.

No, it's millimeters of MERCURY, 700mm of helium wouldn't be much pressure It comes from when pressure was measured by seeing how much mercury it moved in a measured glass tube. It is also called a 'torr' 1 torr = 1 mm Hg.

It's a temperature sensor, all it does is switch on the cat overheat light on the dash if the cat gets too hot. The sensor isn't connected to the ecu so it will not affect the performance of the car in any way if you leave it off.

I had the same problem on mine, I used a blow torch to heat it up and it came out no problem. I had to use a pair of vice grips because someone had rounded the hex off in a previous attempt at removal.

What are you talking about? Altering the timing in the ECU affects the point when the spark plug ignites, it has nothing to do with the cam timing, valve opening or duration!!!!!

It has nothing to do with compliance, the 180kph speed cut is a standard function of the ecu from the factory. It can be bypassed easily by cutting wire 53 (speed input signal) on the ecu. Also if you fit a speed convertor so the display is in mph, this will raise the limit to 180mph. As for boost on a standard turbo, I wouldn't go past 10psi, if you go much higher a standard ecu will increase the fueling and retard the ignition meaning you will be getting less power not more. Also at higher boost you will be running the turbo out of it's efficiency range meaning inlet temps will go through the roof, and the tiny side mount intercooler will not be able to cope. The high intake temp will mean you will very likely get detonation and bye-bye piston ring lands. Simon.

Series 2 and Series 1 ECU ignition is the same, the ignitor is built into the coils on a series 2 not the ECU. Cheers, Simon.

Have you got a Z32 AFM fitted? When I fitted one, my PowerFC stopped going into closed loop fueling at contant throttle, it would just run rich all the time and it wasn't using the 02 sensor to trim the fuel. Problem was the ECU runs richer with a Z32 so you have to lean it out a bit to get it to go into closed loop mode. Simon.

Check these links out: GT-R August 1989 GT-R August 1993 GT-R V-Spec August 1993 Simon.

Part No. is 23781-17U00, I'm assuming this is for a RB25DET. Simon.

If you're talking about the standard factory fitted solenoid then it shouldn't matter which way around you connect up to it. It's just a valve that opens at 4800 RPM. Simon.

I've got the same controller and it holds the boost steady all the way to the redline. Have you got any pictures of how you installed it, maybe something isn't right there. Simon.

If it's inside the cabin, then it will be the hose for an aftermarket mechanical boost guage or boost controller. Maybe even the turbo timer if it has a boost guage function. Shouldn't be too hard to find once you know what's not working since the alarm was installed. Simon.

Still have two stage fuel pump voltage on mine with a powerFC, can hear the pump speed up when you open the throttle.

No Skyline i've seen has a convex mirror, they have all been flat. You'll just have to get used to looking behind you into the blind spot