DRFT 14

Cheers for the graph mate. Your car looks like it would be alot more fun to drive! The turbo is rated at 500hp and is plain bearing. I always knew my car would not be a response monster. But anything over 4000rpm and shes a blast to drive, so im happy. In regards to the "your car barely has 210rwkw" opinions, I raced a 220kw at the wheels turbo civic yesterday and absolutely left him for dead. I really dont think im making 210kw. But i will take it to a different dyno when the opportunity presents itself and see how I get on. I will be sure to update this thread.

I just found one of my time slips from a few ago weeks ago. On a wet day where the track was slowly drying up and I had unwarrantable tires in the rear, my best trap speed was 114mph. My ET for that particular run was 14.1. I was constantly wheel spinning through second and third the whole day. I ran a 14.1 with the old standard RB20DET I had in my car previously, so I reckon she has some good ET numbers in her under optimum conditions (good track, good tires).

Generally, what sort of trap speed represents 250rwkw down the 1/4 mile? Keeping in mind this is in a Silvia chassis (so pretty much the same as an R32 Skyline)?

Highly unlikely that its running that high. Ive got a boost gauge, plus the tuner would have noticed. The tuner did say that it creeps up to 10psi at the top of 4th gear, but ive had a friend monitor the boost gauge while i was driving and it didnt budge past 8psi. It doesnt really bother me. Im really happy with the results, just really curious as to why others require 16 or so psi to run the same numbers. As for the dyno, a friend with an RB20DET and RB25 turbo upgrade (and all other related mods) only achieved 150 or so rwkw on the very same dyno, which he was disappointed with.So the dyno shouldn't be that happy I would think.

New Zealand

Hey Guys I recently got my car dyno tuned. It made 252rwkw with an 8psi spring in the wastegate and no boost controller. Mods are: - NEO RB25DET Masterpower T3/T4 Custom Top Mount Manifold w/ 38mm Wastegate (8psi spring) LinkPlus Computer 3inch turbo back exhaust 600x300x100 IC and 2 1/2inch piping Walbro Fuel Pump Sard FPR I was just reading the "RB25 Dyno Results" thread and noticed that alot of people with similar setups required close to twice the amount of boost that im running to make the 250rwkw range. Another interesting factor about my result is that it was achieved with standard injectors. I remember posting on these forums before the tune and everybody said I wont make more than 220rwkw. Well, my 252rwkw was achieved at around 85% duty cycle. Can anyone shed some light on the boost factor? What was it about my setup that managed to achieve 252rwkw at such low boost? I really found this baffling after reading the dyno thread. I should also add that im really happy with the way the Masterpower turbo ended up performing. On one of my old threads. almost everybody told me to get a "turbo that wasn't from the stone age" and recommended a ball bearing turbo. Cant argue with 252rwkw at 8psi for the price of this turbo!

Just thought i'd chip in.... I made 252rwkw on stock injectors. Walbro pump and SARD FPR. Tuner said the duty cycle is around 85%. Its a NEO 25t.

Interesting. Im using a LinkPlus Ecu. Its a standalone computer, made here in New Zealand. Perhaps there are compatibility issues with the Link and this particular ignition setup. Chances seem abit slim, but i have made a deal on some NEO RB25DE coilpacks and will receive them at the end of the week. I will get them running and fingers crossed the issue will go away. If not, il place my attention towards the fuel setup as others have suggested.

Really appreciate the input guys... For those that asked, here is a dyno run. I did this at an open dyno day, so diagnostics was not available. The blue line was a 10psi run. The car missed badly at high revs and the tuner got scared and let off (as you can see the early drop off in the graph). Anything higher than 10psi, and it would not have revved out at all. Can anyone pick anything up from the graph? I dont think it gives much of an indication but I thought id post it up anyway. As far as spark plugs go, im running NGK Platinum. Ive tried all kinds of gap combinations and that doesnt solve anything. I used the same Walbro fuel pump setup I used with my old RB20DET engine and that engine ran fine. Then again, it was a standard RB20 running standard boost, so the fuel pump wasnt worked very hard at all compared to the new engine. As far as fuel lines being on the wrong way etc as some have suggested, ive been using the car on 8psi for a long time and its been ok. Even took it drag racing. Surely it wouldnt have run properly at all if the fuel lines were not correctly installed? paulr33, in the video it was running a 1bar wastegate spring with no boost controller. I used a boost tap in the dyno run to dial up 10psi.

Cheers for the input guys. Im going to revert back to coilpacks. If that doesnt fix it, then il look at fueling issues. Any other opinions?

No im not 100% sure its a missfire at all. I use that term for the lack of a better word...not sure what it is.

http://www.zippyvideos.com/2429972605285026/new_misfire/ Car Details: S14 Silvia NEO RB25DET Custom top mount manifold / 38mm WG T3/T4 Masterpower Turbo .63ar Walbro Fuel Pump Wasted Spark Ignition, using VL Commodore coil pack LinkPlus ECU The car has been running as per the video ever since the first time the engine came to life in my S14. In the video, the car was running on 1bar. It runs ok and revs to redline without a hitch about 80% of the time with my other 8psi WG spring. I hoped the problem was a tuning issue, but the car was turned away at the dyno because of the problem. The tuner said it was not a tuning issue. I have gapped the sparkplugs to .8mm and that didn’t help anything. I have been trying to fix this problem for over 6 months now. I was very proactive in trying to sort it out at the beginning of my conversion. I gave up on it ages ago and am running my car on 8psi all day everyday. As you can imagine, getting the car dyno tuned is a waste of time on 8psi, so I have been forced to drive it at an un-tuned 8psi for over half a year. My $10,000 investment has gone to waste to say the least. This is my last ditch attempt to try and get some answers before the car is put up for sale at a ridiculously low price. Id love to keep the car if ran to its full potential, but right now it’s just a POS sitting in my garage. So, from the video, can you guys come to any conclusions? Does it look like a fuel problem? Ignition problem? Perhaps it’s the wasted spark ignition setup? I’m changing the ignition setup back to coil packs this month to see if it fixes the problem. Any ideas would be great.

Cheers for that bigsully84. And yeah, Splitfire would be the go, but ive had enough of pouring all my money into the car. Not spending close to 1k on bloody coilpacks, rather put my money somewhere else. Can anyone else confirm the interchangability? Its just that im getting it couriered to me and the chance of a refund will be very slim. Cheers guys.

G'day guys. The NEO RB25DET motor I bought for my conversion did not come with coilpacks, so I went with a wasted spark setup instead. After all the f'n around trying to get it to work properly, ive decided to the just go with coilpacks and make my life easier. Ive come accross some very well priced NEO RB25DE Coilpacks+loom. Was wondering if the R34 DE and DET coilpacks were interchangable? A friend of mine reckons the are, but they DE coilpacks provide weaker spark. Sounds like BS to me, but any truth in that?

G'day guys. The NEO RB25DET motor I bought for my conversion did not come with coilpacks, so I went with a wasted spark setup instead. After all the f'n around trying to get it to work properly, ive decided to the just go with coilpacks and make my life easier. Ive come accross some very well priced NEO RB25DE Coilpacks+loom. Was wondering if the R34 DE and DET coilpacks were interchangable? A friend of mine reckons the are, but they DE coilpacks provide weaker spark. Sounds like BS to me, but any truth in that?

NEO RB25DET Masterpower T3/TS04 Turbo Custom tuned length top mount manifold Walbro Fuel Pump 3inch turbo back exhaust 600x300x100 IC LinkPlus ECU (Base Map) Wasted Spark Ignition 170rwkw (rubbish)

Injectors are standard. Ive got a Sard FPR sitting in my room which im going to install. Yes I know it wont help much, but they'l have to do for now as I dont have the spare cash to spend on $1000 NEO a/m injectors. Ive had some custom ignition leads made up to relocate the coilpack away from the motor and onto the firewall. Il get them inslalled asap. The are Eagle 8mm leads. Oh and the exhaust housing is .63. Not overly large for an RB25 i presume..

Cheers for your contributions guys. I find it pretty unlikely that the LinkPlus is my problem. As they say, a computer is only as good as the tuner, and there are cars here in NZ that run massive hp numbers on all kinds of applications with Link. It should do the job fine. As far as the turbo goes, im pretty short of cash at the moment, so buying a GT series turbo for a couple of grand is out of the question for me. Id really like to stick with the turbo and see it producing some decent numbers. As far as whether or not my motor is a genuine DET motor, im pretty certain that it is. Done approx. 80000kms and looked to be in mint condition. Im really stumped here guys. I agree with some of your comments about having less power than a standard engine. A 100% standard NEO 25t would easily produce more power than what im making at the moment. My best time at the 1/4 mile was 14.9 with this setup. A huge dissapointment considering I ran a 14.1 with the standard RB20DET I had in my S14 before this setup. Also, I dont have any Ignition map printouts unfortunately 180bfj20det. So what's the answer here guys. Do you really think that turbo is so bad that its causing the sub-standard performance that im getting now? I find this a little unlikely, because as 'RR 84 WA' mentioned, alot of people have made good power with Master Power turbos. I might just have to take it back to the tuner and get it tuned as it is, even though his quoted power output of approx 190rwkw will still be a huge dissapointment to me. I might aswell have stuck with my RB20DET

Also, the tuner said he could improve that figure to around 190rwkw with a dyno session. I thought that number was pretty low? Ive taken my car to another dyno tuner (this is where my boost probelm was identified and the tune had to be cancelled), he said he could tune it to approx. 250rwkw with a FPR. Whats the deal here? Looking at my setup and the current dyno sheet, is 190rwkw really the most that my setup can muster?

I finally got the chance to have my car on the dyno yesterday when a local tuner held an 'open dyno day'. $60 for a A/R check and power test run. Car is an S14 Silvia with a NEO RB25DET (and R33 Gearbox). Masterpower T3/TS04 sitting on a custom tuned leangth manifold LinkPlus Computer 3inch turbo back exhaust 600x300x100 IC and 2 1/2inch piping Walbro Fuel Pump etc, etc The LinkPlus has an R33 base map, as I never managed to get it tuned properly because of a 'missfire' issue at high boost (Long story, had my electrician go over his wiring several times, did spark plug gaps, looked at fuel etc. Its never been solved). First run (blue), was on run on 10psi. Second run (red), was run on 8psi. As you can see, the dyno run was very dissapointing. Its pretty lazy to come on boost, and not very linear at all. Power drops from 148kw to 130kw at its worst point before rising back up to a dissapointing peak power of 170kw (doesnt mean much considering my midrange is rubbish). Im pretty new to this, and my abiity to fully analyse dyno sheets is limited, so can you guys tell me your opinions on it? A stock standard MR2 (only mod being exhaust) ran after me and made a peak power reading of 169rwkw. He bought his car for $9000. Makes me wonder why the hell I spent $12000 on my engine setup alone, only to run 170rwkw.

Looks like its sorted, it was the bloody fuel pump! Ive got a Walbro pump which I fitted along with my old RB20. I just removed it and noticed that the filter was fully black. Gave it a good clean and put it back in. It now happily redlines through all gears On a side note, I recommend that anyone fitting a Walbro pump keep their factory filter and fit it to the Walbro. The Walbro filter is 1/4 the size of the factory filter. Pretty slack really. Cheers for the input guys.

OK, I changed the gap to .75. This didnt fix the problem, and I doubt that the electrodes are damaged because it idles and runs perfect on lower revs. 3lit3 32, I have a Walbro fuel pump which is the same one I used for the old RB20DET that was in my car before the 25. The RB20 ran perfectly fine with that pump and it has not been touched since then. I uploaded newer video which now clearly shows the problem. Does it look like its starved of fuel? Spark? Why is it that 1st gear revs out fine but 2nd just stalls between 4-5k rpm? New Video-

Interesting how such a small gap difference can solve/cause missfiring issues. Il have a go at reducing the gap by .05. Il let you know how it goes

Cant be coilpacks, its running wasted spark. R33S2, thats seems like a worst case scenario. I really hope its nothing like that! Il keep it in mind though if we dont find a solution..

Thanks for clearing that up GTST. A mate of mine told me it was 0.08. Even though I was pretty sure it was 0.80, I took his word for it. Anyway, now gapped it to 0.8 and it idles fine. Misfireing issue is still not sorted though. Il ask again if anyone has any ideas after the viewing the video. If not, il take it to another tuner and have another go (even though I run the risk of getting hit with 75% of the tuning bill and come home with an un-tuned car like the 1st time). I took it back to my electirician, he went over it thrice and is certain there is no issue with the wiring or anything related to that. I tend to agree with him, if the car idles fine and runs great below high boost, surely it cant be an electrical fault? Im about to tear my hair out with this one!