DRFT 14

Anyone get a chance to the view the video? Any thoughts on the gap issue?

Im not running a boost controller at this stage. The wastegate spring limits boost to 15psi. Im going to take it for a tune a different tuner after exams are over.

Speeking of unburnt fuel, I noticed black drops of liquid sputtering from the muffler while it was idling yesterday. I tried smelling it but couldnt identify what it was. This especially happened after a changed the gap to how it was before the .08mm gap which didnt work. Could this be unburnt fuel? I find it pretty unlikely that fuel in its liquid form managed to travel all the way from the injectors and out my exhaust pipe though?! Does that hint at anything? (The motor wasnt missfiring while idling)

I should have said that im running wasted spark, so its not a coilpack issue. I tried new leads and brand new NGK Platinum spark plugs but that wasnt the problem. The LinkPlus is a complete engine management system, not a piggy back so I wouldnt suspect a fuel/speed cut. The boost issue is an interesting one, as it only seems to be cutting out after 10psi. The ECU is setup with a basemap for an R33, could this be the issue? Maybe the increased air flow from the large turbo at 15psi throws the tune way off? But in saying that, I doubt that would result with the engine being unable to rev like it does? Are you guys able to view that video? Any thoughts on it?

I have a NEO RB25DET S14 Silvia conversion. Mods are - LinkPlus ECU, large turbo and all related boltons except injectors. I took the car to get tuned recently, but got a disappointing call from the tuner saying the motor wouldn’t rev past 4500rpm and he cant diagnose the problem. He loaded an R33 base map on the LinkPlus and I drove it home. The car starts and idles beautifully. Under 4500rpm it drives as smooth as a stock motor. Anywhere past 10psi however results in the aforementioned misfire/revlimit. On the way home from the dyno, the car surprisingly revved to redline with no problems, which made me wonder what the tuner was going on about. The next day, I got in the car for another test drive, and sure enough it wouldn’t rev out past 4500rpm - just like the tuner said. It now occasionally revs to redline on 1st gear but never on any higher gears. The tuner suggested to try gapping the sparkplugs down to. 08mm. I tried this today but the car now doesn’t even idle with the gapped plugs. I removed the plugs, spaced the gaps back to normal and it fixed the problem. I find this very surprising, as ive never heard of gapped plugs disrupting idle? I took the car for a drive and grabbed my camera. Below is a video that shows the misfire. Hopefully someone might recognise the problem? Notice how 1st gear rev limits and backfires at around 6000rpm. 2nd gear the motor simply doesn’t rev and sounds very weird, almost as if the wastegate is venting on and off? 3rd gear the same thing happens so I quickly change gear. The last clip I added to show how 1st gear occasionally decides to rev out nicely. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/DRFT1...nt=MissFire.flv Id love some help on this. The project has really stalled at this stage.

I have repositioned the throttle body on my NEO RB25 plenum to the front and need to know what to do with a certain hose that goes from the rear of the plenum to the factory J Pipe. The pic below shows the hose (circled). Now, ive tried completely blocking the hose but that results in a very low idle/constant stalling. It is now too late to incorporate the hose into the IC piping as its already made up. Ive taken the car for a couple of drives with the hose just sitting there and sucking from the atmosphere and the motor idles and runs fine. Im however not too keen on leaving it like this incase it sucks in a stone or any such object into the plenum. I was going to go out and buy some mesh and hose clamp it straight onto the out let on the plenum, but just thought id ask here if there are any issues with doing this? Im using a LinkPlus ECU so the difference in airflow will not interfere with the (non-existent) AFM. What is the purpose of having this hose connecting the plenum and J Pipe in the first place?

You will need a 6cyl engine crossmember (I used A31) - Engine mounts do not need to be changed (RB20). Gearbox crossmember is a perfect fit (unlike 25t Gbox). As mentioned above use RB20DET Radiator and to electric fans I used an R32 driveshaft and got it modified into a one piece as per leangth from GB yoke to Diff Its a pretty streight forward conversion indeed. I did however face an over heating problem at the drag strip. It would overheat by the end of the strip each time, but didnt do this during street driving (even though i got the radiator cleaned before installation). Perhaps dont go with a 100mm thinck IC like I did and avoid the crossover IC piping configuration? Apart from that go for gold

I just spent the better part of this morning calling around for an RB25DET Slave Cylinder I need for my 25t S14 Silvia conversion. I rang all the major automotive chains here in NZ and no one has a listing for RB25DET slave cylinders, only Rb20. The S14 slave fit perfectly on my old RB20 conversion but the 25t gearbox seems to have the bolt holes in a different place. My question is, are there any other Nissan gearboxes that share the same slave as the RB25DET? I used a Z32 driveshaft yoke for my 25t gearbox so im hoping I can do a similar thing with the slave cylinder? Damn RB25DET gear is always hard to find

Ok, i went out and bought some brand new spark plugs today and fitted them. I checked the spark on all cylinder's and all were firing. Injector pulse is fine. IC piping is fine. Still no go . Im trying to avoid towing the car to a workshop and saying "take it off my hands and get it running and tuned properly" as im not keen on getting stuck with a couple of grands worth of bills. But it seems like this is the right option, id hate to put another frustration-caused dent on my bonnet!...

LinkPlus utilizes a map sensor. Theres no way i can use a stock ecu. The loom was made up from scratch for the linkplus, so the plug is different etc. And we modified the plenum to face forward and totally removed the traction control in the process so that cant be the problem. I managed to get it to start today, albeit only with my foot constantly on the throttle. It sounded like crap, missfiring badly, similar sound you would hear if you had got a couple of faulty coilpacks which again leads me to think the leads might need replacing- i did re-check them however. I kept revving it out but it died as soon as i let off the throttle. Any ideas guys?

I disappointingly had to tow my car back from my auto sparky while under the impression that I was finally going to drive it home. The setup- S14 Silvia, NEO RB25DET, big turbo with all related bolt on’s and Link Plus ecu. Ive also gone with a wasted spark setup as the motor didn’t come with coilpacks and R34 ones proved very hard to source. My sparky seems to think that the reason it turns over but doesn’t start or hold idle is related to the shabby ignition leads (loose fitting). I rechecked the leads last night and had another go but it still wouldn’t quiet start. Its defiantly firing and sounds like its going to start but doesn’t quiet make it. I managed to start it once but only kept it alive by constantly holding the throttle. As soon as I took my foot off the accelerator it died instantly. Does that hint at anything? Also, would a shabby tune on the second hand LinkPlus stop the car from idling? It was originally on an R33 spec RB25DET so surely the tune can’t be the reason why it won’t even start?

I havnt retained the air con. I didnt bother with it with the RB20 or the RB25. The only real problems ive had was the gearbox crossmember not bolting up using all 4 bolts because it sits further back. My mechanic/fabricater is working on this at the moment. Second, as ive mentioned before is the whole vvt issue. Apart from that, its pretty much just as easy as the RB20 conversion. I cant wait to get this running. Should be a far cry from the old RB20-IC, exhaust job. More Pics-

Thats a little more reassuring. At least 60% of the RB powered drift cars here in NZ run this plenum mod and they all make 250+rwkw so it seems to be a safe option. I will post my experience with it once my car is wired and tuned.

Looking at the plenum with the top half off, its pretty apparent that cyl 3 and 4 will get most of the airflow in the stock plenum design. So I really dont think relocating the exit point will cause as much chaos as you say. But hey, im not an engineer and im only going by assumptions. This thread goes into the subject in detail for anyone thats interested- http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43335 And cheers caminperth. Wiring wont be an issue as such, sorting out the vvti with the LinkPlus is a different matter though. Ive had suggestions ranging from switching it right off to getting a Vtech controller. Il look into that side of things when I get the car wired up, right now i just want to get thing started

tuna_144, ive just updated my thread about the buildup, check it out here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&gopid=1990427&

Time for an update. Progress is a little slow but definately being made. I just came back from my mechanic's house where I took a few pics. We decided to relocate the throttle body to the front of the plenum and in the process totally ditched the traction control. The FPR had to be relocated but the throttle cable was a perfect leangth so no mods were needed in that respect. Im pretty happy with the plenum, it looks exactly like a 6cyl version of the SR20DET plenum IMO. Yes there are open questions in regards to air flow etc, but this will suit me fine as far as my budget is concerned. The manifold is pretty close to being tuned leangth (give or take an inch). Hopefully this setup will produce the results. My ultimate aim is 280rwkw. The turbo might not flow that and neither will the injectors, I have however spoken to many RB25 owners who have netted 250rwkw+ on the standard injectors so il be happy with 250rwkw. I know the engine is filthy but im going to give it a good tidy up and paint the rocker covers once everything else is sorted.

Thanks for that mate. Il keep an eye out for an RB25 one then.

Gday guys. Ive got an R33 RB25DET gearbox mounted on an R34 RB25DET. Im missing the starter motor and was wondering what options I have for a starter motor? Can I go with an auto RB20DE starter motor or do you have to use manual starter motors on manual gearboxes? Is it even possible to use a RB20 starter motor or do I have to use an RB25 one? So basically: - Are auto and manual RB starter motor's interchangable? Are RB20 and RB25 starter motors interchangeable? I did a search but didnt come up with anything. Thanks alot!

Some one tell this man how to upload some videos! . Keep up the good work mate. Very impressive numbers.

Hiflowed injectors? Interesting, i did a search and didnt come up with anything, but I thought the only way to get more out your standard injectors was running a Fuel Pressure Regulator? So how much does this cost? And given the standard injectors flow 370cc, what will a 'hiflow' net? This may be a good solution for my fussy 'specific design' NEO injectors..

Point taken . Thanks for the info/advice guys. I will go ahead and get an intake pipe made up and fit my filter.

So what your saying is, even though I live in a generally dust/sand free place like Auckland City (or any such place), running a meshed turbo will cause damage to the compressor? Im not sure to be honest. It seems to me that unless im using the car as an offroader (which im not ), then the turbo should be pretty safe?

What about routing a pipe from the front bumper and into the engine bay and sitting it close to the turbo? Wouldnt that be a better option? Its seems aparent that a 'naked' compressor would suck air in a lot more freely as opposed to sucking through a filter. Wouldnt this alone make the compressor wheel spin alot faster and earlier and therefore reducing turbo lag and increasing power? Sydneykid, im in NZ

I did a search but couldnt find info directly relating to this (probably because most people here run a PFC and therefore need to run an intake pipe and pod to accomodate the AFM). Im going to be running a LinkPlus and a large T4 sized compressor on a top mount manifold. Im debating whether or not to spend the extra cash and get a custom intake pipe made up and fit my HKS filter or simply leave the turbo without an air feed and mesh the air intake to protect the compressor wheel. Most Japanese drag and Drift cars ive seen dont run pod/panel filters and simply leave their turbo's naked. I want to do this aswell for the sake of cost reduction expect 'hose-clamp' some mesh to protect the comp wheel. Is this a good option or shall I get my HKS mushroom filter on there?

I changed my previously RB20 fitted Silvia to RB25DET running gear and swapped the RB20DET driveshaft tolk to a Nissan Terrano yolk. A respected Nissan specialist wrecker sold me this yolk saying it was identical to the RB25DET yolk. I even asked around on the forums and most people backed this up. I went ahead and took my driveshaft to a specialist and got the new yolk welded up. I have come across a problem however. The snout does actually slide into the 25t gearbox, but doesnt slide in all the way because the the yolk comes in contact with the gearbox dust shield. Some pics to help explain.. Now, because of this my initial measurment is now wrong and the driveshaft will not even clear the sway bar to bolt onto te diff. Its 6cm too long. I would simply take it back, pay an extra $100 and get it shortened, but the snout only slides 2/3 of the way in....like so- The black vivid indicates where the yolk gets in contact with the dust shield and stops. Not exactly promising when im pushing for 400hp. Ive already spent a few hundred on this driveshaft so i dont want to get a new one piece made up from an original RB25DET driveshaft. Ive decided im going to take it to a michinist and cut around the yolk so that it slides in all the way through the dust shield and into the input shaft. I just want to make sure that there are no negative effects in doing this. Also, can anyone with an R33 tell me if their yolk slides in all the way into the dust shield or does it sit like mine? Thanks guys, I hope this isnt a little confusing