DRFT 14

Cheers for the information, much appreciated. But in my defence, I did a search and even asked on someone else's thread in regards to fitment of GTR injectors on the NEO and didnt get a reply. I was under the impression from the information I got from my searches that the fuss with "NEO only" injectors was related to the fact that the NEO is the only top feed 2.5 litre RB, not because they had a unique design. But thanks Sydneykid for the information, you'r always helpful. I bought the injectors for $250 but they regularly get sold for $350-$400 here in NZ so i havnt really lost anything. I do now realize that im going to have to fork out if I want to ugrade injectors properly. Im just going to get a FPR and go for 240rwkw. 370 cc = 370 bhp. Increasing pressure to 410cc will give 410hp or 246rwkw. Am I correct in my calculations? And will increasing the injectors to this capacity still be safe?

Excellent Im glad I got that out of the way before getting the car to the dyno, saves having to upgrade later and spend more money tuning the setup twice. Can anyone add anything in regards to fitment on a NEO RB25DET? Is it streight forward?

The Nismo ones are abit out of the question since ive already bought the GTR injectors. Anyhow, i picked up the RB26 injectors for $250. Id have to fork out almost $1000 for a name brand product for an extra 40cc's in the Nismo case. This mkaes the GTR injectors an extra alternative in my opinion. But thanks for the heads up on the Nismo's And N I B, thanks for the conformation. Can you tell me if a FPR is required to achieve that number or are 440cc injectors all you need for 250rwkw?

What is the max power (rwkw) capacity of the GTR injectors? They are 440cc. My aim is 250rwkw. Can they flow this? If not, will a fuel pressure regulator help achieve this number? Do I need a FPR if im running a LinkPlus computer, or can aftermarket computers not alter the fuel pressure of injectors? The next part of my question is regarding fitment to a NEO RB25DET. They are top feed so im guessing there is no problem getting these working? Will my LinkPlus handle the impededence issues? Many Thanks

I havent thought of that, i will look into this option aswell. But I will need to find a rare neo ecu, plug and part of the wiring loom. Very hard to come by here in NZ. It seems like getting rid of the vvt is the easiest option, but thanks for the suggestion

Hmm, looks like theres not alot of info out there about this. I guess im probably the 1st person in history who is backward enough to to change a technological advancement in a motor back to its older conifguration, but my current situation forces me to do this. Can anyone put me out of my misery and tell me if its possible to switch off the Continious VVt? My turbo, exhaust and IC piping fitment are being completed next week and ive got a LinkPlus sitting next to me which im not sure whether or not will be put to use. If not, im back to drawing board.

In regards to wiring, read caminperth's post in this thread- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=96901&st=20

Ive asked plenty of questions regarding a solution to my NEO ECU problem. Ive come to the conclusion that I simply cant afford to run the VVT at the moment as ECU's that support it are rare and hard to come by. (I priced up an R34 PFC but at $1400nz + sorting out my cut wiring loom + Tuning fee's- i simply cant afford it). So, I came across a LinkPlus that was already running on and tuned on an RB25DET for $750. At that price a had to grab it. I emailed Link before I purchased and they said, "It may be possible to just switch the cam timing (all on or all off, like vtec), you will have to investigate whether that would be ok, or just make it worse". So what are my options now guys? How to I go about changing the Continious Variable Valve Timing to Switchable (like the R33)? Is this even possible? Also, how will the car run if i simply wire it up and start it as is? Oh, and the reason i didnt just get an R33 RB25 for my Silvia is that this NEO with 80kms popped up at $1600. I was getting quoted $2500 for R33 25t's so I naturally grabbed that NEO.

No need to apologise for anything mate It wasnt exactly an outraegous post or anything. I was actually eager to read the thread as i also have a 250rwkw project at the moment. I guess we'l just have to wait and see! I want low 12s though

What do those custom engine mounts usually cost? Wonder if it would end up cheaper than modifying the gearbox crossmember?

Didnt really think i needed them because the RB20 was a perfect fit. Il stick to this at this stage and modify the gearbox crossmember. And yeah, im thinking of painting the rocker covers. Im also getting the plenum modified into a front facing plenum. Havent seen any NEO engines with this done to them so il update this with pics once everything is bolted up.

We decided to drop the motor and gearbox in together. This wasnt the easiest of jobs for two people. The RB25 gear is very large and not usually at home in a Silvia. So it took a few tries and re-adjustments of the chain on the engine hoist to get the right angle. I had to stand on the gearbox in order to have it low enough to slide under the firewall and into the GB tunnel This is when we had to stop, as an engine mount problem that i never thought was an issue stopped us from going any further. The NEO engine mounts will not bolt into the S14. We had to call it a day with the motor just sitting in the car and the gearbox lying on the floor under the car . I sourced some RB20 engine mounts and they were replaced. The motor bolted in perfectly. However, the gearbox crossmember does not bolt up like the RB20 box does. The RB25 box is longer, so only 2 bolts line up. We bolted up the two, ans I will have to sort this issue out later.

The string of bad luck with the old motor led me to start looking for a much newer driveline. In the meantime, i started buying parts for the new engine. I already had a front mount intercooler, Walbro fuel pump, exhaust, HKS filter etc fitted on the car from the RB20 setup. I added to this a Masterpower T3/T4 (500hp spec), 38mm WG and SSQL Blow Off valve- After alot of searching, i found an R34 RB25DET motor which was very reasonably priced. I went to pick up the motor and found that the seller also had an R33 RB25DET gearbox. So I made a deal on the lot and took my new babies home . I 'dummy fitted' the turbo on the stock manifold but found two problems. 1. The compresser housing was not clearing the manifold. 2. It was obviously going to be difficult to mount the Wastegate on the stick manifold. So I scratched the idea and decided to get a custom top-mount manifold fabricated to suit my setup. With the water lines blocked and oil feed and return lines for the new turbo sorted, a proceeded to get the new motor dropped into the Silvia. I used the same 5puk Exedy clutch I used for the RB20 (it was only one month old).

Ive asked plenty of various questions on this forum in regards to issues ive had with this project and everyone has been of great help. So I thought id give a little back and hopefully entertain you guys with some pics of my project and a small run-down of the engine drop in. First off, this is a pic of the virgin S14 Qs (Non turbo-SR20DE) as i saw it on the auction sheet in Japan. I could see in the pic that it had a front lip, skirts and some 17s. I got a nice surprice when the car arrived though, it was equipped with a set of Tein Type Ha coilover suspension and 5Zigen full 2 1/2inch exhaust. I bought this when I was 18, it was fun at the time but the eventual need for more power led to an RB20DET re-power. I sourced a good deal on an RB20DET motor and gearbox package. But as luck would have it, the gearbox turned out to be in need of a rebuild. It was drivable, but 2nd gear was hard to engage. The clutch also blew after the first 3rd gear burnout. It was replaced with an Exedy 5puk. The string of bad luck eventuated to a run big end bearing on the engine. Here are some pics of the RB20DET and some other external modifactions that i did-

The PFC is $1500 plus i need an AFM. The LINK is $970. Im getting confused at how poeple are saying the PFC is just as easy to 'wire in' as a LINK. I was under the impression that PFC is a plug in ecu. How would you go about wiring in a plug in PFC? I got a cut loom, no ecu and no AFM with the NEO motor that i bought. A LINK will sort out the no loom issue because it comes with its own wiring harness, it uses a MAP so no AFM is required. Can a PFC do this for me for $970? Prove me wrong guys, im open to suggestions here. My manifold is getting fabricated and turbo/wastegate/intercooler piping/exhaust is being installed next weekend. I will then have to move on to the wiring and ecu department. Right now im leaning towards the LINK.

Im abit of a stuborn bastard, so im going with the LINK. Cant beat a wire-in unit for $970 . My auto electrician does his work really cheap so wiring it up will only be a couple of hundred. And if caminperth ran his NEO with an R33 ECU then I dont see why the LINK wont run it. Cheers guys

Ive been quoted between $600-$800+ for an R34 Loom. Add that to the re-wiring costs into the S14 and the price of the PFC itself and ive got a very expensive ECU set-up on my hands. However, I still have the original custom RB20DET loom sitting in my Silvia (old motor was an RB20 which ran a bearing). Is it impossible to use the RB20 loom on the NEO motor? All the sensors and plugs-wiring is there, the loom is cut at the firewall. Then theres the issue of the actual RB20 ECU plug which will not fit an R33-R34 PFC.. You also mentioned that is no harder to wire in a PFC in than any other computer. Can you explain this further? How would you go about 'wiring-in' a plug in computer? Does the PFC come in a wire-in option?

So what your saying is that since my original ecu of choice, the LINK, works with R33's it should also work on the R34? This makes sense, since you were able to run the NEO motor with your R33 computer then the LINK should also run my NEO. Can anybody else confirm? Id really like to get the LINK LEM, as it is perfectly suited to my budget and is probably the most recognised computer by tuners in NZ. This is the link to it- http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-45601429.htm

After finding out that the LINK LEM which was suitable for my budget ($970) cannot work on the NEO RB25DET due to it's Continous Variable Valve Timing, I am now looking at other brands. I have come accross this unit on Trademe.co.nz (NZ's equivilet of EBAY-Im located in NZ). http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-45485466.htm It is a Microtech LT12s. Ive done a bit of research and it seems like these ECU's are pretty well priced ($1500AUS brand new). I tried emailing Microtech and asking if this unit can handle the the NEO's Continous Variable Valve Timing but they still havnt replyed. Can anyone shed some light on this matter? Also, this particular unit is wired and tuned to run a BMW motor. Will it be possible to rewire this into the 25t without having to buy a new loom from Microtech? And since this is tuned for a BMW, will this add alot to the cost of the tuning or will it not make a difference? So basically - 1. Can the LT12s run an R34 motor? 2. Should i buy this particular unit and save around $600-$700 or will these savings be offset by the tuning and wiring modifications needed? (BMW-->R34). 3. Failing that, what other ecu's do you recoment for the NEO RB25DET? P.S I cant go with a Power FC as this motor is in my S14 Silvia and has a cut wiring looom and no ECU. So a wire-in unit is what im after. Cheers

Oops double post..

Can anyone else confirm? Looks my ECU budget will now need to be doubled. All for the sake of a newer motor. Shit happens i guess.

I was always under the impression that the PFC is a plug in replacement ECU, not a wire-in? I definately need a wire-in ecu as my loom is cut.

I am looking at buying a LINK Engine Management System to run the R34 motor im putting in my S14 Silvia. I chose this ECU because my wiring loom is cut and this ECU is a wire-in unit. Im located in NZ so the LINK is very well priced and every tunder in NZ is familiar with it. Now, i emailed LINK and asked them if this ECU is capable of running the NEO's VVL. This is the reply I got, (the main part anyway)- "LEM is suitable for a Switched Variable Valve Timing application not a Continuously Variable Valve Timing application (I dont know off the top of my head which one your engine has)". So, can anyone shed some light on whether or not the R34 motor uses switched vvl or continuous? I suspect the R33 motor is switched but the R34 is continuous. I hope it isnt, because if it then the car will be off the road for another couple of months while i save up for a LinkPlus which costs double the price of the LEM .

Hmm, its good to hear the flywheels are the same, and also confoimation on the clutch, as im using the same 5puk clutch that was used in the old RB20 setup. I did howover saw off the dowel. If the non-turbo's didnt have them, im sure mine will be ok. Cheers for the help guys

I have asked lot of people and have been told numerous times that the 20t and 25t flywheels are the same. I even rang alot of dismantlers and they all said they where the same? Drilling a hole on the flywheel itself seems a bit more complicated than chopping off the nipple, so im gonna head off to the garage now and get the saw out. If anyone has anymore comments, let me know