DRFT 14

I have an RB20det flywheel that im using to bolt my R33 gearbox to an R34 25t. There is however a 'nipple' next to the 6 main bolts on the motor which the flywheel doesnt have a hole for. Check the pic below to understand what i mean- This is the motor, you can see the nipple in between the two holes on the left. My flywheel below as you can see doesnt accomodate this nipple, im guessing this is because im using an older flywheel on a new motor? Is this something that Nissan added in the R34 motor? So, my mechanic is coming tomorow morning to put everything together and drop it into my S14 and i just descovered this issue. I need it sorted streight away. Can i simply saw this nipple off? I was going to do that but thought id make sure this is alright and the right thing to do before i take a saw and hack into my new motor .

Personally, i think by the time you get the RB20 running properly you would have spent nearly enough for another 25. You already have everything on the 25, just get another RB25 block (and head if its not in good condition) and swap it. Thats the most cost effective alternative. Dont downgrade man, never take a step back i say.

You mentioned the GT2835R was highmounted. Are you planning on high mounting an RB25 turbo intsead? Wouldnt that require a new intercooler piping setup, oil and water lines? Your setup is already tuned to accomidate the GT2835R. I say stick to it and just recon it. Seems to be the easiest way to go. And perhaps you should hope for the best, "TURBINE OIL LEAK" may simply mean a leak through the oil lines? (happened to a mate of mine recently on his GT28R). Fingers crossed the turbo is still in good nik, your setup sounds awesome

Thanks alot for that. I got quoted $200 just for the yolk from a 25t driveshaft, so hopefully the 300zx driveshaft will be ceaper. Off i go to search for a 300zx shaft.. By the way, does the auto box share the same yolk or will i definately need a manual one? Im assuming manual driveshaft only but worth a try?

I have a custom one peice driveshaft made up from an RB20DET driveshaft left over from my previously RB20 powered S14. I now have an R34 25t engine and Series 1 R33 25t gearbox sitting in the garage awaiting fitment to the S14. The driveshaft was not cheap to customise and id like to keep it. However, the Rb20 yolk does not fit on an RB25 gearbox does it? If not, i will have to source a 25t driveshaft and weld the yolk onto my existing custom rb20 driveshaft. I have been trying to find one but 25t driveshafts are hard to come by. Do I have any other alternatives? 300zx etc?

What about GTR injectors? Im going through the same process as you and looking at options for injector upgrades on my NEO. Would the GTR injectors be good option for the 250rwkw range? They can be bought for around $350 here in NZ, MUCH cheaper than the big name brands. They flow 440cc, anyone know what the max rwkw of this size injector is?

Sorry guys, but going back to the injector discussion on page 2, would GTR injectors be a good option for the 250-270rwkw range? They are top feed so they should fit sreight into the NEO correct? I have similar power goals in mind (270rwkw max) and was wondering if GTR injectors are a viable option for my power goal, as they flow 440cc. They can be bought for around $350 here in NZ, MUCH cheaper than the big name brands.

Thank you very much, made my day. And sorry, i didnt see your reply on the thread. $970 will now sort three things out at once- AFM-gone, ecu and wiring sorted. Il call LINK tomorow morning, if what your saying is correct (im sure it is), then looks like the NEO is staying

I have looked into the aftermarket wire-in ecu idea but was not sure if the these products fully replaced the standard wiring loom or simply spliced into the existing nissan wiring loom. I actually started a thread asking this question but didnt get any useful responses. Maybe you guys may know the answer? My Neo motor actually has all the sensors and wiring on the head intact. Its simply cut from around the alternator wiring side (I got a replacement for that part) and chopped where the thick coil begins to route into the firewall and plug into the ecu. Does this help in relation to wiring up an aftermarket ecu? I know you guys dont like LINK, but im in NZ and can pick one up (with wiring loom) for $970.

I’m in a bit of a predicament with my NEO RB25DET. I bought an 80000kms neo engine with the plan to drop it into my S14 Silvia (previously fitted with an RB20DET which ran a bearing). The motor is missing its ECU, AFM and wiring loom is cut. I’ve spent the last couple of weeks trying to hunt down those parts to no avail. The only person I found that had an ecu wanted $400 for it. A wiring loom would have been easily over $600. I can’t afford this kind of cash and it’s making me regret going for the later model NEO engine. I’ve been getting laughed at walking into wreckers and asking for NEO parts, they are too rare at this point. This brings me to my question and the reason I started this thread. Should I make my life easier and re-sell the NEO 25t and just buy a 100% complete 25t from an R33? This will save me a lot of headache and money, but I’m afraid I’ll regret this decision later on if do go along with option B. But is it worth the hassle with the neo motor, in regards to the improvements in the NEO head? Does it really make that much of a difference? I’ve heard that the reason the R34 has 30hp extra over the R33 only because of a boost increase. Does that mean that the neo head does nothing to increase power? I’ve got a 500hp T3/T04e awaiting fitment on the motor (along with many other mods-FMIC, Walbro, manifold etc). Will the neo motor spool the turbo up quicker or will there not be an advantage once the turbo is fitted and the motor is tuned (between the r33 and r34 RB25DET)? Your thoughts as usual very much appreciated. My heart says keep the Neo motor, my wallet says sell up and get an R33 25t, what do you guys reckon?!

By wire it from scratch you mean it totally replaces the factory wiring loom?

I just spent a full day driving around different wreckers here in Auckland and went through the "automotive dismantlers" section of the yelow pages from page to page. I still cannot find a single person that has a Wiring harness and ECU for an RB25DET R34 NEO Engine (its going into my S14 silvia). Everytime i ask a wrecker if they have any NEO 25t parts i pretty much get laughed at. I might aswell be looking for bloody Dodge Viper parts. The NEO motor i bought came with a cut wiring harness (lazy bastards), no ecu and afm. The lack of parts has caused me to look at the aftermarket. Im confused about aftermarket ECU's and their wiring harness. LINK is obviously popular here in NZ and i was wondering about their "wire in units". Now, the website claims that it comes with its own wiring harness. Does this mean i can use the LINK's (or any other aftermarket wire in ECU) harness completely instead of finding a nissan wiring loom or does the "LINK wiring harness" simply splice into the factory harness? The harness on my motor is all their except its cut where the loom routes into the firewall and plug into the computer.. Ive been told that a NEO wiring loom will need to be specially ordered and cost around $400-500. ECU is just as rare and will also cost easily over $200. AFM will not be cheap either. The LINK will do away with the afm, and if i have the right idea about the wiring harness, then the LINK will solve my problems in one hit. So basically, my question is, does the LINK harness act as a complete engine harness (or can it be easily spliced into my current cut harness)? As usuall, any help is greatly appreciated!

And thanks for the link on the oil feed fitting. So I can effectively use the existing metal oil line, bend it into place and screw the banjo bolt into the GCG adaptor? Awesome, now ive just gotta find a place that sells this in NZ.

Ive got a 38mm WG sitting next to me. Gonna weld it on the standard manifold. I know what i need to do now, thanks to you guys, but one more question still lingers. Ive got the waterline sorted. But there are two metal oil lines on the side of the block. Do they BOTH need to meet together and run into the turbo, or shall i block one and use the other? EDIT- I just re-read your post BHDave. So your saying there are two waterlines and one oil line? Im a little baffled, as they both emerge from the same area on the block, where there should obviously only be oil, not water? Mind circling my pic and pointing which is the oil line?

Is this mandatory? I thought the water line was sorted . Any input on the oil inlet lines?

Im a little confused here. So the return feed is sorted. Your saying the metal pipe that comes from behind the block is the water line which is not used with the new turbo. I will remove it and block it off, so sorted. Now im left with TWO metal pipe oil feeds on the block (as you can see on the photo on the top) and an inlet feed on the turbo with a flange that doesnt resemble the two metal pipes on the block. What your saying that I somehow need to make up a custom flange that bolts into the inlet feed flange on the turbo and connect it to the metal oil line pipes from the block? If so, which one? Block one off and use one or somehow merge both oil feed lines into the turbo oil inlet flange? Am I on the right track here or totally muddled up?!

Thats better! Now that the turbo fitment is sorted, I need to figure out the oil feed issue. I was mistaken by saying there is nothing on the block that resembles the inlets on the MasterPower turbo. If you look at the picture below you can see the hose has an inlet identical to 1 on the turbo. Now, this inlet goes back INTO the block, which i assume then makes it the 'return line' as you said R31Nismoid (am I correct?). There however is no inlet from the block to go into the top side of the turbo... This one- So what do I do here? And what about the metal lines that you can see (all bent up) in the 1st pic? Shall i just remove them and fit the holes with a screw? Your time and help is very appreciated guys

Thanks mate, I will do that. Help with oil lines for the turbo would also be appreciated. Ive never done this before. Can the standard oil lines be used with the new turbo, or will i need custom ones? If so, where do I get them from? Looking at the turbo, there doesnt seem to be an inlet for the oil lines that are on the engine block? These are the only inlets on the turbo - Are these oil or water inlets? There is nothing on the block that resemble these? Sorry for sounding so clueless, but its the first time a fiddle around with a turbo install.

Excellent. Thanks alot mate.

Ive got an Exedy 5puk heavy duty clutch which i kept when i sold my RB20 running gear. Will this fit my new RB25DET gearbox? The GB is missing the flywheel also. Shall i get a 20 or 25 flywheel? Does it even matter?

Ive removed the old RB20 out of my S14 and bought a NEO 25t instead. I also have a MasterPower T3/T4. I was originally going to use an XSPOWER top mount manifold, but because of my problems which ive outlined in this thread (http://d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9146), im begining to look at the standard manifold as an option. It will: - A- cost alot less as i dont have to modify my intercooler piping B- allow me to keep the standard planum as is. I fitted the turbo on the standard manifold but it sits very, very low. Here are some pics - As you can see, the comp out let sits right next the engine mount. This is how things are in the S14 engine bay. This turbo will not fit will it? Anyone else have a big turbo mounted on the standard manifold? Will my setup work out?

Thanks guys. Im actually located in NZ, so buying parts of you neo32 would be tricky. Nothing seems to be 100% on the whole R33->R34 part interchangability issue. I think im going to play it safe and go with NEO ecu, AFM and wiring.

I did my own research and yes, R34 injectors are indeed top feed. Clarification on the ecu, afm and non-turbo wiring loom fitment would be very appreciated

R34 injectors are top feed? Interesting. Anyone know what they flow? Same as 33? In that case it looks like i can go with the cheaper option and get GTR injectors rather than an expensive aftermarket brand. Can anyone confirm on this too?

Hmm, im kind of getting confused here guys. So the R33 loom fits a NEO motor? And caminperth, you also said a the R33 25t AFM and ECU both fit ? Others have said it doesnt, has anyone tried this themselves and can confirm for sure? If caminperth is right then my life will be much easier, NEO stuff is very rare compared to R33 25t parts (and much more expensive!).