theDETlife

Whats the deal with the 25DET motor? are they prone to the legend of sending excess amounts of oil to the head starving the bottom end like the gtr's? (from what i gather from reading online) Is the head oil drain mod worth it for a street driven car that gets thrashed regularly? Just like any Rb owner i love to be on the limiter (or close to it) for as long as i can before running a bearing or blowing something else up. In my application I have a 25det neo completely factory in my laurel which I drive some-what weekly and also dish out considerable amounts of rape on the engine a least once a month a drift events. Is the mod worth it? do you think it will help prolong the life of the bottom end?

If anyone has a c33 and wouldn't mind posting a pic of the wires going into the male wiper motor plug. Have trouble getting getting all 3 fazes to work correctly! If its possibly to get all the wire colours in the pip that would be a massive help.. or if anyone was a diagram or a pin out of the wiper harness that would be great. Cheers.

R34 gtt neo engine replanted into r32 gts body. recently the car has been running fine until it gets up to temp, then when driving normally its fine won't miss a beat. as zoo as you give it a tickle on boost after coming off boost it starts to give in. No power, rough idle, you can smell its running rich. Any position on the accelerator will not have an effect on the rev's when in neutral or in gear, a slight change in rpm but it will still continue to run terrible. will not rev past 3k, but sometimes will not rev at all it vary's a lot. There are no vacuum leaks that I'm aware of, gauge reads a constant 20 vacuum at idle. can anyone suggest how i go about ruling out this problem step by step. which areas do i cover first to see what is at the heart of the problem. Cheers have a fine one.

bought another turbo from a R33 gtst, slapped it on and no more smoke! After taking it for another drive down to the petrol station and back to get some gas i took the dump off and everything was coated with burnt oil! waste gate was black, 02 sensor was black and so was the dump! Must of been the seals.

Smoke now come out in a small could on start up. (still cold) Then continues to smoke a small amount constantly.

It only blows smoke when slowing down eg, down sifting with no throttle a puff comes out then when stopped it comes out in a big plume. Turbo has about 1mm of in/out shaft play so i assume thats f**ked and about .3mm of up/down play. If it were blowing oil past the seals there would be signs of burnt oil in the down and exhaust housing of the turbo? idk what im looking at so heres a few pics of them, if someone can tell me if these are normal looking or not. There is some signs of oil in the outlet pipes of the turbo, only small amounts coating the outside of the pipes. I was thrashing it the whole day before running 12psi with a possible boost leak so this is why i'm assuming its the turbo but i'm not sure.

Cheers Mark, i believe your right about the seals, but I am fairly certain the car isn't using any water, the coolant is still very green. No I have not done a compression test but I will get onto that. The car doesn't feel down on power at all but the smoke is very unnerving as you could imagine.

Gidday A few days ago I got my rb25det neo all legal and road worthy. That night drove it very spiritedly with what i assume was quite a large boost leak. The turbo sound was loud enough you could hear it while on boost but not off boost. It sounded like a high pitched jet engine and was noticeable from inside the car with the window up and down. I haven't done a boost leak test but I will get onto that. The next day driving the car across town i noticed when the car gets upto temp, every time you drive without stoping for a while, then start to slow down and go thought the gears, each gear shift a large puff of white/grey smoke would billow out of the exhaust, and when coming to a stop/stopped completely a very large could of smoke would come billowing out of the exhaust! My thoughts were in this order. Loud turbo noise = boost leak -> excessive turbine speed to achieve 12 psi = turbo wheel reaching unsafe rpm's = wrecked turbo. After some googling i'm leaning toward the fact that the turbo seals are leaking oil causing oil to burn in the exhaust. I have checked there is no sign of oil in my water or water in my oil. Is there anyway of knowing what has actually happened or what is happening to my engine/turbo? Is it time for a new turbo? or has my head gasket blown? The car runs very smooth on idle and drive perfectly fine, it can still boost but i assume this passed more oil through the turbo burning more oil (if that is actually whats happening). Any help is appreciated thanks!

I think the rb20de and 20det boxes are both under the same code "FS5W71C" As far as I know the 20de box's also came peer'd rb30e vl commodores, R32 gxi with a 1.8l carburettor engine and i think some laurels with the rd28 diesel engine. Some one must know their r32 box's inside out. Cheers guys!

Calling all gear box guru's. What are some key defining features that are unique to the Rb20det gear box in r32 skylines? (Also is the same gear box is found in the 25de models?). I've heard the that 20e/30e/20de gearboxes are a lot weaker than the rb20det/25de box's and where I'm from people try to play off the weaker gearboxes as 20det boxes for a little extra coin. So if anyone knows of any features that are visible from the outside of the box that will allow you to distinguish which gear box is which with out opening them up, please feel free to spread the love. for example - do they have different bell housings, breathers, shapes or even a number stamped on the side of it? Thanks! And have a fine day.

Hi guys, I'm just wondering how much would a standard r32 two piece drive shaft (3 uni joints, 1 hanger bearing) move or shift from its normal position when not rotating compare to when under load from the engine? I have replanted the original 20de motor to a rb25det neo, obviously an increase in power... so would this cause the drive shaft to twist or move more than usual under hard acceleration? The reason I'm asking this question is because I'm in new zealand and to meet the legal requirements for the engine replant i have to install 2 drive shaft hoops. And it looks like the shaft is connecting the bolts inside the hoop causing a clucking sound under heavy acceleration. the shaft clears the head of the bolts by about 7mm-10mm. could the d shaft move that much? cheers, will post photo Asap.

Sweet, thanks guys.

Gidday, I have done a 25det engine replant in my r32 and have kept my old front strut brace in place but have noticed that strut brace only just clears the engine by about .5mm! I have raise the strut brace as high as it will go, and slid the engine mounts as far down as they go and have only got .5mm of clearance between TPS and the brace. So, this leaves me worried as engines under load torque or twist the same way the crank spins, especially the rubber r32 engine mounts, so do i take the brace off and let the engine do its stuff or keep it on and when giving it heaps and let the brace flight against the twisting of the engine? If left on could this be bad for the struts and rip the brace off the threads? or would it be oky? im not sure what to think of this.

He's a legend, I would never have spotted it! Flipped them over and had a great result , pedal feel was eliminated of all sponginess.

You legend! the nipples are at the bottom right now, i will flip them, bleed them again and let you know. Giving that you said it is a simple mistake to make that sounds very much like a thing that i would do and have done.