theDETlife

Whats the deal with the 25DET motor? are they prone to the legend of sending excess amounts of oil to the head starving the bottom end like the gtr's? (from what i gather from reading online) Is the head oil drain mod worth it for a street driven car that gets thrashed regularly? Just like any Rb owner i love to be on the limiter (or close to it) for as long as i can before running a bearing or blowing something else up. In my application I have a 25det neo completely factory in my laurel which I drive some-what weekly and also dish out considerable amounts of rape on the engine a least once a month a drift events. Is the mod worth it? do you think it will help prolong the life of the bottom end?

If anyone has a c33 and wouldn't mind posting a pic of the wires going into the male wiper motor plug. Have trouble getting getting all 3 fazes to work correctly! If its possibly to get all the wire colours in the pip that would be a massive help.. or if anyone was a diagram or a pin out of the wiper harness that would be great. Cheers.

R34 gtt neo engine replanted into r32 gts body. recently the car has been running fine until it gets up to temp, then when driving normally its fine won't miss a beat. as zoo as you give it a tickle on boost after coming off boost it starts to give in. No power, rough idle, you can smell its running rich. Any position on the accelerator will not have an effect on the rev's when in neutral or in gear, a slight change in rpm but it will still continue to run terrible. will not rev past 3k, but sometimes will not rev at all it vary's a lot. There are no vacuum leaks that I'm aware of, gauge reads a constant 20 vacuum at idle. can anyone suggest how i go about ruling out this problem step by step. which areas do i cover first to see what is at the heart of the problem. Cheers have a fine one.

bought another turbo from a R33 gtst, slapped it on and no more smoke! After taking it for another drive down to the petrol station and back to get some gas i took the dump off and everything was coated with burnt oil! waste gate was black, 02 sensor was black and so was the dump! Must of been the seals.

Smoke now come out in a small could on start up. (still cold) Then continues to smoke a small amount constantly.

It only blows smoke when slowing down eg, down sifting with no throttle a puff comes out then when stopped it comes out in a big plume. Turbo has about 1mm of in/out shaft play so i assume thats f**ked and about .3mm of up/down play. If it were blowing oil past the seals there would be signs of burnt oil in the down and exhaust housing of the turbo? idk what im looking at so heres a few pics of them, if someone can tell me if these are normal looking or not. There is some signs of oil in the outlet pipes of the turbo, only small amounts coating the outside of the pipes. I was thrashing it the whole day before running 12psi with a possible boost leak so this is why i'm assuming its the turbo but i'm not sure.

Cheers Mark, i believe your right about the seals, but I am fairly certain the car isn't using any water, the coolant is still very green. No I have not done a compression test but I will get onto that. The car doesn't feel down on power at all but the smoke is very unnerving as you could imagine.

Gidday A few days ago I got my rb25det neo all legal and road worthy. That night drove it very spiritedly with what i assume was quite a large boost leak. The turbo sound was loud enough you could hear it while on boost but not off boost. It sounded like a high pitched jet engine and was noticeable from inside the car with the window up and down. I haven't done a boost leak test but I will get onto that. The next day driving the car across town i noticed when the car gets upto temp, every time you drive without stoping for a while, then start to slow down and go thought the gears, each gear shift a large puff of white/grey smoke would billow out of the exhaust, and when coming to a stop/stopped completely a very large could of smoke would come billowing out of the exhaust! My thoughts were in this order. Loud turbo noise = boost leak -> excessive turbine speed to achieve 12 psi = turbo wheel reaching unsafe rpm's = wrecked turbo. After some googling i'm leaning toward the fact that the turbo seals are leaking oil causing oil to burn in the exhaust. I have checked there is no sign of oil in my water or water in my oil. Is there anyway of knowing what has actually happened or what is happening to my engine/turbo? Is it time for a new turbo? or has my head gasket blown? The car runs very smooth on idle and drive perfectly fine, it can still boost but i assume this passed more oil through the turbo burning more oil (if that is actually whats happening). Any help is appreciated thanks!

I think the rb20de and 20det boxes are both under the same code "FS5W71C" As far as I know the 20de box's also came peer'd rb30e vl commodores, R32 gxi with a 1.8l carburettor engine and i think some laurels with the rd28 diesel engine. Some one must know their r32 box's inside out. Cheers guys!

Calling all gear box guru's. What are some key defining features that are unique to the Rb20det gear box in r32 skylines? (Also is the same gear box is found in the 25de models?). I've heard the that 20e/30e/20de gearboxes are a lot weaker than the rb20det/25de box's and where I'm from people try to play off the weaker gearboxes as 20det boxes for a little extra coin. So if anyone knows of any features that are visible from the outside of the box that will allow you to distinguish which gear box is which with out opening them up, please feel free to spread the love. for example - do they have different bell housings, breathers, shapes or even a number stamped on the side of it? Thanks! And have a fine day.

Hi guys, I'm just wondering how much would a standard r32 two piece drive shaft (3 uni joints, 1 hanger bearing) move or shift from its normal position when not rotating compare to when under load from the engine? I have replanted the original 20de motor to a rb25det neo, obviously an increase in power... so would this cause the drive shaft to twist or move more than usual under hard acceleration? The reason I'm asking this question is because I'm in new zealand and to meet the legal requirements for the engine replant i have to install 2 drive shaft hoops. And it looks like the shaft is connecting the bolts inside the hoop causing a clucking sound under heavy acceleration. the shaft clears the head of the bolts by about 7mm-10mm. could the d shaft move that much? cheers, will post photo Asap.

Sweet, thanks guys.

Gidday, I have done a 25det engine replant in my r32 and have kept my old front strut brace in place but have noticed that strut brace only just clears the engine by about .5mm! I have raise the strut brace as high as it will go, and slid the engine mounts as far down as they go and have only got .5mm of clearance between TPS and the brace. So, this leaves me worried as engines under load torque or twist the same way the crank spins, especially the rubber r32 engine mounts, so do i take the brace off and let the engine do its stuff or keep it on and when giving it heaps and let the brace flight against the twisting of the engine? If left on could this be bad for the struts and rip the brace off the threads? or would it be oky? im not sure what to think of this.

He's a legend, I would never have spotted it! Flipped them over and had a great result , pedal feel was eliminated of all sponginess.

You legend! the nipples are at the bottom right now, i will flip them, bleed them again and let you know. Giving that you said it is a simple mistake to make that sounds very much like a thing that i would do and have done.

By power bleeding do you mean using a vacuum bleeder from the calliper or a pressure bleeder that pushes fluid into the MC?

Hi, i have recently installed a 5 stud conversion on my r32. I am at the stage where i cannot seem to get the rear brakes to clamp the rotor! all the gear off a r32 gtst including -brake booster -bm44 MC- -4 pot 5 stir up front -2 pot 5 stud down rear I have alson installed some g tech brake lines. After bench bleeding the MC for all extraction of air, all outlets flowed nicely. Installing the MC onto the booster and connecting the brake hard lines i then start form the rear passenger brake. Using the 2 man bleeding method (open bleeder, brake pedal down. Close bleeder brake pedal up) and repeating this method until a clear, air free stream. Going around all 4 callipers at least 5 times. After this the pedal feel was completely soft 2 thirds (2/3) of the way down then you would hear a clonck and symoltaniously the pedal will become hard. This also happens when the rear calliper bleeder is open, opposed to when bleed ing the front calliper when the bleeder is open the pedal goes str8 to the floor. After taking it up the street I found out only the front brakes were working. (when the car is on the same pedal feel present 2/3's down nothing then the front brakes engage). After being thoroughly confused i took the calliper off the knuckle and getting some one to depress the pedal i saw the brake pads close after the 2nd or third press of the pedal, Which i would presume after the 1st pump making pressure then the brake pads would move, so I'm thinking this eliminates the calliper being seized. So it must mean there is air somewhere in the system. So here are my questions. WTF is going on??? Could there be air trapped somewhere in the callipers? or the hard lines? Is the MC f**ked? How man bleeds or amount of brake does it take to completely get all the air out and get a nice pedal feel? HELP please,

Hello people, IM in the process of doing a 5 stud conversion from gts brakes to gtst's and I'm trying to figure out how i get the brake cable out of the drum brake mechanism? I can see where the spring attaches to the end of the cable in side the brake set up but I'm not sure how to get to it. Can any one send a few pic's of how they did it or give me a explanation on how to do it? Also is the installing of the cable into the drum brake just the opposite of taking them out? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks! Few pics of where I'm at atm.

Had a good laugh to these replies guys thanks for your idea's. i'll get a few mates round we might be able to gang bang it off with our hammers.

cheers fellas, i'll give it a few more whack's and see what happens and if that fails fork out for another tool i guess.

Thanks bro all sorted now managed to pic one up off a guy parting out his r34!.

Hi, Im doing a 5 stud conversion including 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear. I can't get the outer tie rod end off the knuckle (se pic). I've tried bashing it with a muttlet and using a gear puller to get it off, heating it up and it won't budge. Any idea's how to get it off with out using a tie rod removal tool. Keep in mind this is the rear outer tie rod end out of the hicas lock bar on a r32 gts. And i understand that the tie rod setup is a little different than the classic tie rod end thread thru the knuckle with the castle nut holding the two together. pic of the 5 stud hub with out rod and old 4 stud hub with rod end still attached. Cheers!

What nut? do you mean locking collar? the keeper spring collar, sorry I'm a shit head when it comes to this stuff

Hello, if you can reframe from pointing out my ignorance that would be great, but some help as to how i adjust the height on my adjusties would be very much appreciated! I under stand they are not *body adjustable* which seems to be the only type of adjustable suspension that has tutorials on the inter weds showing how to adjust them, so I'm a little bit stuck. thanks.

Oky sweet, so does this mean its just a matter of using the right gauge of wire and then going nuts?