grigor

Not a BOV, it's the air compressor unloading. When the air sysyem pumps up to working pressure, about 120psi, the compressor unloads and freewheels. The noise is the air released from the pipework between the compressor and the unloader valve. Air brake noise is the air released from the brake system when the brakes are released. Engine brake noise ( Jacob's engine brake) is much much louder and not usually heard in cities for obvious reasons. Proper diesels don't need BOV's as they have no throttle butterfly. Only toy stuff like the old Toyota diesels had a butterfly as a cheap way to get vacuum for the brakes.

Not another one. Have all you guys with busted pistons in supposed LOW mileage cars contacted each other? Might be a shonky importer out there.

Apart from the obvious materials costs, unless you're really switched on mechanically and have a suitable build up room, it's going to cost as no-one here has mentioned the big killer on re-builds, cleanliness. A crank re-grind is the easy bit. Getting that ground crank and its oil ways perfect requires a lot of hand work and the big ends and mains oil feeds need extra special attention. Removing all traces of head gasket material, sealant etc from the block also takes ages. Re-bores or hones leave a beautiful valve grinding paste type residue that must be removed completely. Oil galleries in the block are impossible to clean with air etc and need all plugs/caps removed then replaced with drilled and tapped plugs. You see these problems all the time when someone hopes for a quick fix, but it usually ends badly.

Not a problem. I get pissed when I see sensible info being offered without any obvious thanks to the author.

You didn't thank SK for his lengthy replies, or advise if you had purged the air from the cooling system when you flushed and re-filled. Purging the air is such a simple job but with big consequences if forgotten.

2835 Pro S doesn't need anti lag. What it does need is money spent on the wastegate/boost controller. You'll never need 740cc injectors with that set up either, 555's are heaps. Go for a drive in a 2835 equipped car before you spend the dollars. Traction and boost control are the 2-worries, certainly not lag.

If it's a V6, they use the oil switch as a signal to the ecu for the time out on the fuel pump etc. They have a double switch in that one section works the dash warning light and the other section does the ecu switching. The low oil pressure dash warning is total crap, cuts in at 4psi from memory, certainly low enough to root the bearings. I'd say it's the ecu section as they will still run but you'll get that error code in the ecu. New switch is about $20 from Holden, but go easy when screwing it in as the aluminium body has super thin wall thickness and you can crack the housing very easily. New GM housings have extra metal thickness around that thread for the oil switch.

Adjust your base timing to 15 BTDC on the CAS Either fit the neutral switch wiring or ground pin 44 with a stock ecu. It needs that signal.

Turn off all the warnings except knock. Then you'll know that's what the yellow light is. Download the hand commander manual and have a good read. It's all in there.

I'm still not quite there. I'd forgotten about pin 36 air temp on the Rb26 but OK, it's an empty socket in the Rb20 and 25. Only concern is my old Rb20 uses the AAC valve for idle speed, air con and power steer RPM control. But the R33 in the garage has the AAC valve for idle, but has a second valve for air con and power steer. I don't have any pin outs for this extra valve on my old diagrams. So the Rb25 PFc is looking good in an Rb20 (with those minor injector mods), but will it also need some wiring mods to control the aircon and power steer RPM?

After all that, have I got it right???? Rb20det injectors are top feed, 270cc, 13 ohms. Rb25det injectors are side feed, 370cc, 13 ohms. Rb26dett injectors are top feed, 444cc, 3-4 ohms. Rb20det ecu has pin 112 as inj 4, pin 114 as inj 6. Rb25det ecu has pin 112 as inj 6, pin 114 as inj 4. Rb26dett ecu has pin 112 as inj 6, pin 114 as inj 4. Pin 7 is tacho signal on all ecu's. The extra AFM on the Rb26 uses empty pins in the Rb20 and 25 plugs. The extra oxygen sensor on the Rb26 uses empty pins in the Rb20 and 25 plugs. Pin 25 is boost control valve on the Rb25 and Rb26, and empty in the Rb20. Pin 113 is VVT on the Rb25 and empty on the Rb20 and 26. So for an easy Rb20det fix, I'd buy an Rb25det PFc, swap wires to pins 112 and 114, alter the duty cycle on the injectors and start tuning??? For more power in the future, I'd buy the Rb26dett PFc, swap wires to pins 112 and 114, buy some 444cc GTR injectors and their resistor pack, and as for the AFM's and oxygen sensors, I'd have to PM SK......

It was "Dont ban high performance cars... ban low performance drivers" Thanks for the correction. I was so fumed at watching that crap show I muffed the only bit of smart advice.

Yes the recent wankfest to reduce the roll toll has come up with all the old chestnuts, big fines, double demerit points, and of course their favourite, hotted up cars. The only bloke with a sensible comment was Dick Johnson, "Don't blame fast cars, blame slow drivers". The car licencing system is a complete joke, doesn't even do a 100kph highway driving test. As for idiot Lucas, simple, vote him and the rest of Beattie's drongoes out.

If everyone agrees the Soarer is overweight, why not look at a Chaser with the 1JZ....

Having both auto Skyline and VS dunnydore, so I know what he's talking about. The VS auto, especially around town, doesn't lock up at moderate speeds, so when you roll downhill, you notice the tacho drop down to a fast idle. (Really great for getting booked by the coppers hiding at the bottom of the hills.) The Skyline locks up at a much lower speed, It's quite noticeable when you swap from one car to the other. Makes you think you're still in 3rd, but at least you don't have to roll downhill with the bloody brakes on.

Doesn't matter if it's a quasiturbine, rotary, 2-stroke, 4-stroke, they all have a valve or port of some sort and that's one of the first areas that gets modified when you're trying for more power. Incidentally there are a few patents pending and of course they don't use massive voltages, solenoids etc. Mostly electro/hydraulic and are capable of operating well within the range of conventional engine RPM's. As for developmental costs, have any of you seen how complicated a sleeve valve is? Check out a Bristol Centaurus.

Electrically operated valves. I’ve been waiting for these since I was a kid, and that’s along time ago. So what’s the hold up? Formula 1 engineers had a toy with the idea and Mercedes actually has an engine running. The enormous tuning options are only limited by our imagination. Just a few: No cam shafts, timing chains, lifters, rockers etc, etc. Engine starts decompressed, builds oil pressure then the ecu kicks in some cylinders. Valve lift, duration and timing all adjustable via the ecu. Vary the engine capacity by partially filling cylinders to offer a smaller capacity for light load, idle situations. Completely drop off any cylinder at any time, the mind boggles at some crazy firing orders. Real engine braking, make the Jake brakes on the Kenworths look twice. With the fanfare of GM’s “new” olloytec engine and Ford strapping a turbo on their twin cam head, all technology at least 10 years old, where are all the lateral thinkers?

I think you'd have to have time and money to burn for some of these combinations, but my favourite is a chopped Rb30 block with an Rb20 crank, Rb30 rods & pistons, and Rb25 head. Would be a bit under 2.5litre and with those long rods should have great combustion properties as well as revving like crazy. But stacked against all that work, the Rb30det looks the go.

No wonder there are so many rooted Rb engines on this forum. Turbo oil change is 5000K's or 6 months. This practice of changing oil at 5000K's and doing the filter every 2nd oil change (10000K's) is absolute madness. If you want to keep the engine at all healthy, do 2-filters to each oil change. Filters are cheap as chips and why would anyone in their right mind pump new oil through a dirty filter. I do my oil changes at 3000-5000 and filters at 2000max.

Hey guys don't be lazy, do a search. SK did an excellent comparison with graphs showing the pressure, volume and voltage. Really shows the 255 Walbro as only good for N/A applications.

I know exactly how they fix your problem. You'll be asked to send the spare set to some other poor bugger who's been waiting for months, and you'll get nothing from Japan until you send Brent a copy of that registered parcel paperwork (at your cost). Then be prepared for a bit of a wait. At least that's what I had to do with his PFC stuff up.

Start saving. You can make them quiet with a decent mid-mount. We just installed the biggest straight through turbo muffler we could fit, 3" mid mounted, about 500mm long x 300 wide. With the big cannon at the end it was perfect. Nice burble on the idle, no restriction and it still sounded great flat out. Lasted all of 1000K's before the heat cooked all the packing and now it's back like it was. Dreadful at about 25-2800, but smoothes right out around 3200. Next time it's a stainless packed hand made job coming up. Purpose built for big power rotaries.

Try farm irrigation suppliers. I bought 4"to3" spun alum pipe reducers ages ago from the local company here in QLD.

Each time I read someone's dyno run, there's always some guesswork as to why it did or didn't perform. As dyno time is expensive, perhaps some preparation is in order so I'll start with some suggestions. 1. In the days before the run, keep filling the tank with your preferred fuel so there's no dilution. 2. Change your fuel filter, oil filter and oil.(Engines work hard on a dyno) 3. Check air filter and all induction pipework, hose clamps etc. 4. Remove your coil pack cover. If you need to close the plug gaps, you're that far ahead and I hate working on hot engines. 5. Ensure the operator checks the static ignition timing. 6. Ensure he installs a fuel pressure gauge. No use wasting money on a tune if the rail pressure is falling away. That's a few for starters. If anyone else has more suggestions please add them here.

From memory it's Settings then Inj. You should see the 6-injector duty cycle and lag times. Go down each one and alter the duty cycle accordingly. For the Nismo 555's I used 70% The 67% maths presumes your old injectors were actually good for 370cc's. They may have been doing more or less, but it will drive to the dyno very nicely at 70%