grigor

Not all that hard, just finniky. You don't need to split or remove the plenum, just the throttle body and the AAC valve assembly. But be very careful you don't lose the insulating washers between the fuel rail and the manifold. They sit in a machined groove and are easy to dislodge. Before you start, clean the area and give it a good blow with compressed air and be extra careful nothing drops in the open manifold once the rail is out. Take the opportunity to replace that impossible to get at fuel hose at the rear of the rail. There is probably some tool to remove the injectors from the rail but having nothing like that, I installed longer injector retaining studs then popped each one out using compressed air. The plastic collets on the pintle valves are super fragile. New nitrile "O" rings and it all goes back OK. Dial in your new duty cycle in the PFC. In my case using Nismo 555's the ratio is 370/555=67%, I used 70% and the lag time is the same as Nissan so that's good. It will then run perfectly for your trip to the dyno. Thanks to SK for the injector info.

Sure did. Had a VP as a company car, did 275K's without a hitch. I bought it when I moved and just drove to Perth, all the West, South you name it. Just added fuel and did one oil change. Not a power giant but 8L per 100K's. My mistake was I thought the ecotec was the same engine but with a newer ecu etc. It's a completely different engine.

Bought a VS Ecotec the other day. Thought it would be cheaper on fuel, oil changes etc. than the Rb20 She developed a big end knock so I stripped it down and they're worn out at 180K's. Don't people change oil anymore? But the worst thing is it's such an absolutely crap engine. I've never worked on something so poorly designed that you just can't tell if it's going to work or piss oil and water out everywhere. Then on my adjacent engine stand is my old Rb30 block which has done at least 400K's. It's still got the hone marks in the bores and the crank is perfect. That's nitriding for you instead of the cheap crap rolled crank journals in the Holden. The Rb is destined for a big power build up. The Holden is destined for another place.

Saw this when I ventured over the border. Obviously not a happy customer. But how’s the Pacific Highway???……Averaged about 60 for the whole trip with the blue suited revenue collectors hiding behind a tree every couple of K’s. Got a laugh from the fixourbloodyroads.com sign

What heat range plugs were you using?

http://datnet.org/new/techinfo/

Look at the under car shot. New pipe from the cat to the dump. I doubt any other dump will fit as it's a HKS special turbine housing, Garrett don't even have gaskets for the dump. (See Sly's unique gasket)

Hi, Glen’s Dad here. Anyone contemplating building one of these kits should read on. I built my amps back in the 70’s but this is a whole different story. The components have got smaller, they’re placed closer together and my eyesight is rooted. You need a top quality solder station, not that old Scope on the bench, and the final product test procedures are straight from the space shuttle. Congratulations SK, that’s a bloody neat job. My next project will arrive assembled, hey. Regards.

I hope you sort out your electrical gremlins ASAP. The idea of the pump time out is in case of accident, you don't want fuel pumping everywhere even though the engine may have stopped. If you've had an engine fire fed on 50psi fuel, you'd have the fear believe me. Regards.

Physics hey? Boyles Law, Charles’s Law etc. P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2 I’ll borrow some numbers from FMIC tests for a RS500 and pick a boost of 15psi. Turbo air temp was 135deg C. (408 deg absolute) After the cooler the air temp is 35deg C. (308 deg absolute) So the turbo pumps 15psi x V1 at 408 deg absolute. After the cooler we have either 0.75V1 at 15psi or V1 at 11.3psi. Sure there is air flow resistance in the pipework and heat soak for a sustained load, but the numbers demonstrate you get more denser air. Most errors happen in wastegate pressure readings. An Rb20 takes the wastegate pressure straight from the compressor housing so it doesn’t know what is happening in the plenum. It will spool up fractionally faster but now there is a lot more volume to fill so it’s a bit laggy. Once the initial surge has levelled out, the plenum pressure will be lower than normal, but it will be filled with denser air so the net result is similar power, with a nice anti-detonation safety margin. The Rb25 takes its wastegate pressure after the cooler, so you’ll get more air in the plenum due to the increase in air density. Again it will spool up slightly faster and it will have some lag, the plenum pressure will read same as before but it will now have a more dense air charge. The turbo has eaten more air and the AFM is out of sync with the parameters set up by Nissan. Without altering the tune via a PFC etc, the AFM will sense the larger air flows and start to dump in fuel. Stop/start conditions are the worst as it’s continually fuelling for unrealistic air flows, the black-bumper syndrome. If you add some other factors like a cold evening and no air temp compensation, I’m sure that’s why so many slightly modded Rb25’s experience the R&R which ends in the Ignition/Fuel cut and the poor old coil-packs cop the blame. Regards.

Looking for the R33 receiver dryer. Nissan Part No is 9213117U01 and none are available in Aus. Can anyone assist with an equivalent part supplied by Danfoss or Denso etc?

I haven't seen this item but it sounds like they're trying to fit a tapered plug into a parallel thread. Not designed for it. Should have a copper washer sealing onto a machined area under the head on the bolt. Same concept as your engine temp sensor fittings. A tapered plug goes into a tapered thread with Locktite or hydraulic thread seal. Thread tape goes in the plumber's toolbox.

Guys,guys guys, what's with the thread tape? This is an engine not some bloody leaking garden tap. There are plenty of excellent products designed specifically for hydraulic applications, and they DON'T deposit strands of tape in your lubrication system. Think for a minute what happens when a bit of that tape finds its way via your oilpump to relief valve, lifters, main/bigend/smallend bearings, turbo bearings etc. Leave the plumber's tape for the plumber's jobs.

Check the tensioner bearings and also its alignment with the other pulleys. Regards.

I notice no-one ever mentions the hygroscopic properties of the E10 blend. I imagine the fuel as supplied to the lab for testing is spot on, but elsewhere it's humid and wet. How much of that 10% ethanol is water. Fuel filters close over very fast with even the smallest amount of water, and I'm not paying big fuel prices for that. Following the change to low sulphur diesel and the simply amazing effects it has on "O" rings, plastics etc, I don't trust the lab brains with this one!

For those who don't understand tapers: The tie rod end ball joint connects to the steering arm on a taper. If you use a forked ball joint removing tool, you will bugger the rubber dust seal and the ball joint. You could use a claw type of ball joint remover but they too usually bugger the thread. Most tools are designed to remove the old ball joint quickly and for you to replace it with a new one. To remove a taper you need a large hammer, about 7lbs to act as a dolly, and a smaller ball-peen hammer, about 2lbs. Remove the split pin and loosen the ball joint nut but leave it on by a few threads. Right at the ball joint hold the 7lb dolly hard on one side of the steering arm and slog the opposite side with the 2lb hammer. The idea is to squeeze the taper from the sides of the steering arm. One good solid slog will have the taper drop straight out, but the dolly must be hard against the arm to absorb the shock. Never hit a taper on the end or the nut, it only tightens the taper. Regards.

Would the author of this tutorial please add: Loosen the plugs, BUT before removing them, blow the area thoroughly clean with compressed air. Can't believe people still pull dirty plugs and wonder why they suddenly develop a miss after dislodging crap into the combustion chamber. Regards.

M18 x 1.5

Read your PM's

No.

For all power window gear, alarms, aerials etc: Electric Life Australia 295 Sydney Road Coburg Victoria Ph 03 938 33511 Fax 03 938 33955 Brand new and a little cheaper than Nissan. Regards.

Come on guys!!! There is a difference between ping and knock. How do you think your car was tuned in the first place? You advance up the spark until in pings then back it off a few degrees. I don't have access to top quality fuel here in the sticks so I sacrifice a bit of power by winding back the spark. What I said was don't panic. One tank of fuel won't kill it IF you use your right foot sensibly until it's been diluted with premium.

Don't panic. I use regular unleaded in the jigger always. Rb20det, might not be making full power but it's certainly not pinging, that's what your right foot and the CAS are for. I have found the regular starts much more easily than the PULP, just one touch and she's away. Same car on BP Ultimate has to crank away for quite a bit. My only garage is a Matilda and their premium ain't too flash. Closest BP is 30mins away on the highway.

It's the asreholes who ruin the reputation of the force. A student was telling me of their family driving along Rainbow Beach in the 4WD. Up ahead is the police ute bogged big time. Everyone else is driving straight past, waving, blowing the horn, stupid coppers etc. The student's Dad backs up, hooks on the snatch-em and pulls the hot and sandy coppers out of the sand. Gets out the retrieve his strap, 2nd officer proceeds to book him for driving without a seat belt while they were getting pulled out. So there's a kid who has lost any respect for the force and who will definately think twice before helping any policeman.

Do a search on Skylines Down Under. All their big power engines change to this cheap and reliable, but pretty ugly option.