grigor

Have a good read of these forums, especially the maintenance section. Owners who don't know the difference between a starter and an alternator, coil packs or coil overs, cam belts or fan belts....... Doesn't matter if you're a girl or a guy, if you're not mechanically minded it's going to cost to keep your Skyline running sweetly. The fact that they're VERY second hand with questionable milage doesn't help and it's where a buyer needs the mechanical knowlege/advice. Regards.

Not a stupid question, more of half a question. It's useless stating torque without its RPM. Since BHP is a product of torquexRPM, high BHP engines must be still making reasonable torque, even at very high RPM. (F1 engine for example) Or a 300BPH truck engine will have masses of torque but it will probably be at 1500rpm. The Rb25 doesn't make loads of torque at 2000rpm, but its pretty consistant right up to 6000 with a very high BHP end result. Regards.

Try this attachment. R32___R33__Series_1__Z32_AFM_Wiring_Guide.pdf

Anyone reading this thread please don't be FOOLISH enough to run your engine with a battery cable removed.

and that myth that japs dont/cant drive very much is crap, japs drive as much as we do! SPOT ON!!! I can't believe the dreamers with the amazingly low K's. But all this "winding back the clock" stuff went out with white-wall tyres. They just buy another speedo from the wreckers and use that one. Cheap as. Come selling time, they re-fit the original speedo and hey, look at the low K's on my car. Log book history is much harder to falsify.

Sounds like she's stuffed. Change your fuel filters and trade her in. Those modern small capacity turbo diesels in the Vauxhall? are brilliant. My niece has one in the UK, cruising speed is 100(MPH that is)

Yes. There will be some sort of spacers under the CAS, fitted by the previous owner to maintain correct distance out. These won't be required with the Nissan cover. DON'T drop any down into the bottom cover when you undo the 3-setscrews. Regards.

You don't say the prices. The 96 is obviously a stocker so how long before you start increasing boost, FMIC, bigger wheels etc, etc. Doesn't take long for 5 grand to go. There are lots of very good R33's for sale with all the fruit and they're bloody cheap. Regards.

I just replaced driver's side. Nothing in there repairable. The nylon gear drops a couple of teeth so you have to help the window up. Sounds like a tree shredder. About $350 from Electric Life Australia Pty Ltd. 295 Sydney Road Coburg Victoria Ph 03 93833511 Fax 03 93833955 You'll have to cut off the Nissan plug and fit 2-crimp terminals.

Remove your watch........ My friend had an expanding type watch band, rested it on one terminal as the spanner flicked across from the other onto the band. Instant glowing red hot heater element. Most painful trying to get it off his smoking wrist.

Fuelled up Glen’s R33 yesterday, 46 litres for 510k’s, mostly highway. Since the Magic Cat install, low RPM boost has gone crazy so I needed to alter the IGN map and wondered where other PFC drivers are in Map Tracer at about 100kph. With RPM axis 6 or 7, I had load axis between 4 and 6. When the foot down goes it’s 15+ Economical driving is in that 4 to 6 range and 600k’s per tank is a reality.

Make yourselves some Excel charts with all your settings. Takes about 30 mins. It gives you a full picture to examine when you're doing road tuning, not that little screen. Do a before and after set from your dyno tune and list your mods so you can e-mail to others. Regards.

Go to a workshop and watch over the mechanic's shoulder to gain some skills. Zip ties in the tank, unbelievable wiring, sock......

I don't believe it!!!!

200+rwkw and BP premium 9.5l per 100k's small amount in city and mainly highway. No mad acceleration but with occasional passing speeds quite high. (They get up there so quickly.)

You full insurance promoters are missing the point. Have any of you had a complete and hassle free claim? No use paying $1250 a year for $26000 cover and then getting a payout of $15000! I'll stick with unlimited 3rd party property, fire and theft. (plus my secret immobilisition).

Full comprehensive, what a joke! Do you actually think you'll get back what the car's worth? The sum insured is just the starting figure and you've got a big argument to receive anything like that amount. If you've failed to notify them of any modifications, forget it. I had a dunger stolen, book value $4000. That's what I expected back as I have zero excess. They offered $1200. So I stuck to my guns and kept refusing the offers, sent photos of it's condition and demanded an exact replacement. They sent out a PRIVATE INVESTIGATOR to check me out, thought I'd stashed the rocket in the bush or something. Months went by and the offers kept coming and I kept refusing. Then the car was found (stripped) and stolen again, from their lot. They gave up and paid out.

PM stu

If your import shop is worth a pinch, they will know that car's history, especially if it's from a yard. Ask them before you hand over the cash.

Dead right. TOTALLY USELESS. Sent an Power Fc to a Perth address via registered mail, insurance, the whole bit. Never heard back. Did my own tracking and found it had been delivered, hopefully to the correct address. So I got cranky and asked what guarantee did I get for the big bucks. --NOTHING-- Disgusted at their response offering me back, the cost of a stamp to notify that the item had been delivered. ALSO just sent an A4 envelope to GTSt25 in Italy- cost $38. Guaranteed anywhere in the world in 4 days max. Took 3 weeks. I'll use couriers from now on.

Go to a tune and test day at the drags. It's the only way to prove it. Just watched a Jeremony Clarkson DVD put a Pagani Zonda V12 with 555bhp against a 1992 XJ220 Jag with a 540bhp turbo V6 AND an extra 200kg. The Jag ate the Zonda.

Sure does. Like the man says, packer needed on the bracket. Watch your belt alignment as the HICAS balancer will have a 4-groove pulley and your non-HICAS pump will have a 3-groove pulley. Regards.

Skylines come from a country where they put salt on the winter roads and It's really hard to find one without rust. I've chopped some and every one had rust in the seams, especially across the floor pan. Most owners wouldn't know this but the half cut suppliers sure do.

How many owners expect their Skyline to be around in 10 years? 20 years? 30 years? My Dad had an import when I was a kid in the 60’s, a 1935 Chrysler Airflow. I hated that car, all my mates families had FJ Holdens and we had this 30 year old tank. What finally killed it was a lack of spares. There were only 3 straight 8 Airflows in Queensland and we knew where the wrecks were. No problem keeping engines and transmissions going but bodywork is the killer. Things like door handles, panels etc are impossible to re-manufacture. All the laminated glasswork had mica sandwiched between 2-layers of glass, but water penetrated the mica and it went all foggy. She beat all the Red-X trial cars and was good for 110mph, but ended her days at the speedway bombers. That car would be worth a small fortune today. So my hint when buying a car is to look hard at the bodywork, get a good one and look after it. Mechanicals come a poor second to bodywork, especially in 25 years time.