grigor

I'm guessing you didn't assemble the oil pump with Nulon or similar? Hoping you assembled all your big ends and mains, cams etc with Nulon. Oil after filtration goes into the engine via the centre of the filter housing. Drilling goes straight through the block to the turbo oil feed on the left side. You must remove the spark plugs and ensure you have oil pressure before you do serious cranking, 5 minutes is too long. As explained by other posters, you've got to remove the air lock in the pump, probably by hand reverse direction cranking while adding oil to the outer ring of the filter housing. You're going to make a mess but that's better than having a bearing pick up. Vaselene is a bit too thick for an initial start-up as it can get forced into the end of the oil gallery thus starving those bearings until it's eventually squeezed out. Thick engine oil is used a lot but as most Rb25/30 builds take a loooong time, it may have all drained back to the sump before start-up. Best to use a proprietary purpose made product.

No Pauly, he's not talking about the white marks on the belt lining up. If you look hard at the horrible out of focus exhaust cam photo, you can just see it's 2-teeth advanced while the inlet cam is on the mark. She'd be a belt loosen job to fix.

Not Supercheap Cairns? Might explain it, there's nobody serving so customers walk across the road to REPCO.

Check all your ABS wheel/diff speed sensors and associated wires/plugs are all connected and in good order. Same with the ABS unit.

You're thinking way too deeply. 1. You can't have a continuous on, white light facing rearwards in any conditions. 2. You can't have a continuous on, rear facing high wattage (50W) red, unless you're driving in fog conditions.

Be prepared for a heap of these $40 contributions from any car that doesn't show a warning light on the dash. Same goes for front facing fog lights on old S13's etc.

Certainly not brilliant, only around 10psi off re-build lower limit. So long as they're consistant, with no big differences between cylinders she'll go OK for years, just not a top performer anymore.

My thoughts, as sent to Smell, are that he’s now reached manufacturing tolerances and anything closer will require adjustable cam wheels. Obvious stuff like a decked block or shaved head have been eliminated as the cams would have retarded not advanced. A thicker than factory head gasket also seems unlikely. Can’t recognize the marks on the cambelt but I don’t like thicker than factory aftermarket cambelts as they advance cam timing due to the extra thickness over the idler. I dug out a few Nissan belts and the root of tooth to back of belt is constant at approx 2.3mm However the top of tooth to back of belt varies from 5.2 to 5.6mm. 15thou mightn’t sound like much but it doesn’t take much extra at the idler to advance the cams. Gates belts are another story.

The pedal is adjustable and thus your grab point. As you shorten the master cylinder push rod, the pedal will lower and thus the grab point will also be lower. But if you go too far, you won't have enough travel to actually disengage the clutch. (pedal on the floor) As the pedal is adjusted lower, you need to follow it down with the pedal "up" stop. Not sure what your car has but most just use a switch, same as your brake light switch. When finished adjusting, check you have correct pedal free travel so the master cylinder can't pump up.

Not really the right section but.... A piston stopper is nothing more than a means of stopping No 1 piston before TDC, usually a modified spark plug or similar. Take the usual precautions regarding cleanlines etc. Rotate the crank until the piston touches the stopper and mark the balancer (or your degree wheel) against a fixed point. Rotate the crank the opposite direction until the piston touches the stopper and mark the balancer against that same fixed point. TDC for No 1 will be halfway between those two marks. The larger diameter of your degree wheel improves your accuracy but even the balancer's diameter is better than the tiny crank gear.

No need for all that. I PM'd Smell a while back to find TDC via a piston stopper and remove all this balancer guesswork. Time to move on.

PFc uses stock AFM as first option.

Agreed. For idle situations the only stand out problem area is the G-Reddy style plenum and the twin fuel pumps. Try it with a conventional fuel supply to eliminate that from the equation.

Haven't got an Rb in bits to see but will an Unbrako socket head capscrew fit instead of that hex head HT bolt. Unbrako's are grade 12.9 That's 1080MPa compared to a grade 8.8 HT bolt of 640MPa.

Mate, have no idea what you did but at TDC if you rotate you cams 360degrees, valves will hit. NEVER do cam work with the crank at TDC.

Yes I think he's giving you an honest assessment. Your mods are minimal and time spent on the dyno chasing a very few Kw will cost you a lot more than your $150.

The council will have someone to talk to, probably Parks and Gardens. My story: One of my boys borrowed the old Falcon when he was moving to Griffith from QLD. She got stolen pretty quickly and he notified the police, got a "case number" the whole bit. No news for 2-months, my son used to bike to the copshop daily and ask how it was going and he was told it would turn up in a canal any old day. Next I get a bill from Griffith City Council for tow/storage of my vehicle. Turns out Parks and Gardens could trace my car via the VIN (as it was completely stripped) but not the NSW police. I handed the whole thing over to the insurer, but they disputed my replacement value, even had a private investigator come and chat for a couple of hours. Then they lost it, stolen from their impound lot. I received all my $$$$$. Case closed.

You need to check the towing capacity of the vehicle before you buy. Most states stipulate the laden mass of the trailer mustn't exceed the kerb mass of the tow vehicle. That makes a dunnydoor's max tow about 1.5 t and I know mine is deadly towing that much. You have to move up to a 4X to get any (legal) decent tow capacity.

Found a shredded Jap. newspaper mice nest in the spare wheel well of a 33. They'd got in via the flow-through vent valve mounted in the lower right rear inner mudguard. There was still some bits of newspaper stuck in the vent holding it open. Must have happened while the car sat on the docks back in Japan.

I was thinking of something slightly more scientific. Check continuity of circuits, impedence as is done with tail lights etc on modern vehicles. There must be a test apart from the obvious. BOOM! eg. I left a car stored at a friend's farm for a week. Picked it up and no right indicator. Eventually removed the plastic inner guard and found rats had built a home in there, eaten the wire's insulation and shorted out the indicator. They could just as easily have eaten airbag wires.

I'm thinking the same, just not quite enough to set them off. Makes you wonder though, lots of bags are getting very OLD. My wife's VS must be almost 15 years old and yet I've never seen any reference to any airbag checks on an RWC.

I was comparing this impact to one my Dad had in his BA where they all went off. He's scared to drop the bonnet now.

Saw this at the auctions and it got me wondering just how much does it take to deploy R34 airbags. It's had a pretty heavy hit, inside is a mess, floor pan is buckled and I thought the right-front damage should have fired the bags, but no. She's a repairable write-off.

280rwkw from 270cc injectors? Here's some choices: Rb20det 270cc, top feed, high impedence Ca18det 370cc, top feed, low impedence Rb26dett 444cc, top feed, low impedence. Once you've added the resistor pack into your pricing, you could buy tested Deatschwerks.

Yep, time to find another Nissan dealer. The one at Capalaba was very good. Pretty rare not to see an import in the carpark and the spare part guys are very helpful. You should hear the response from Toyota or Lexus when you ask Aristo questions. They have no clue and could care less.