grigor

As noted by lachlanw, bolt (1) locks the alternator to the bracket and bolt (2) is your belt tension adjuster. So you'd back off bolt (1) slightly, adjust the belt tension using bolt (2), then tighten bolt (1). Then tighten bolt (2) slightly to stop it from rattling loose. If none of this is working, I'd guess your adjuster thread is stripped. If so you can back off bolt (1), lever the alternator out until you get correct belt tension, then tighten bolt (1).

I also have Acad 14 and 2000. The old release 12 is so much faster than the "new" stuff it's not funny. A bit like Microsoft, the more options it offers, the slower it runs and one thing I can't stand is slow Acad. But after speaking to a computer expert, it looks like she's had it. He was amazed my floppy info had even lasted this long.

Come on. I'm not standing up for him. If you read my reply, you'll see I agreed that he didn't see you. BUT that's not much use to you if you're DEAD. Wake up. I'm not wasting any more time here, obvious you're on the organ donor list but you just haven't realised it.

Mate, there’s no use going on about it, he didn’t see you, simple as that. It happens. You’re a fast moving dot in light rain and even if when wearing high vis. leathers, you’re not as big a target as a car so he’s got to be extra vigilant. Didn’t happen this time. You’d know you have to drive as if everyone is out to get you, and that’s doubled in the wet. Back in the day I drove a 360 Yammy, for about 4-weeks. Didn’t take me long to realize it was only a matter of time until I got splattered. Then my mate got demolished on his pushy when riding to work so I saw the light. As for today’s truckies, I’ve got nothing but admiration for them. There’ll be mistakes as in your situation, but compared to back when I drove they’re gentlemen. I got my semi license (HC) in 1967 BTW. Some free advise> Ask a trucker if you can try lifting his spare, not one of those aluminium things either, a real steel wheel and 1100 tyre. Then imagine 20+ of them going over you. I’ve seen it …………. Give the bike away.

Is there a clever person out there who can help. My ancient Autocad has a personalization floppy disk with the CD software. It's worked forever on my old machine, but my new computer doesn't have a floppy drive. I thought I could transfer the info via a flash drive or such, but it's not happening. I then tried to copy the whole programme from my old C drive, but it seems to need extra .dll files so that doesn't work. NFI what that's about.

Something very wrong here. There's no load on the power steer pump until you turn the wheel. On the dyno, it will merely circulate the oil. Same for the aircon, unless your car gets dyno'd with the aircon on.

Sad story, It's even worse than that. The contact area is half the gear's thickness, about 4mm contact with the crank. (This is from a N/A Rb30) Always believed they ran the same pump as the turbo, but it's been ages, those photos are many years old.

Watch your Oxygen sensor wiring. The position for the sensor on the HKS dump is just awful for the wires. It will be difficult to actually see up there but I'd suggest you try to wrap the plug connector.

Are these slightly out of focus pics. any help?

VVT solenoid.

That's for sure. Poor bugger is going nuts looking for his air temp probe and wondering what the MAP sensor has to do with anything, apart from the boost gauge in the dash. He's cleaned the obvious AAC valve and finding the air reg is a bit of a mission. He's got fluctuating idle at intersections so I'd guess it's warmed up by then yet he still has the problem. Certainly check all your vacuum hoses but don't go pulling the plenum apart or throttle body and TPS off, find a competent workshop. It will save you $$$

What he said. It doesn't change with RPM. You're looking for the boost solenoid or a shorted relay.

I'm guessing not.......... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...ue-t262688.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...20#entry4500603

Yes I think for general applications, cruises etc, price outweighs that unit's minor disadvantages. (IC41s is a touch under $400) I had the old standard Uniden VHF on the yacht, mast mounted antenna. It simply didn't hear stuff that the Icom's had coming in clear as day with the same height antenna. Couldn't believe they supposedly have the same power.

Don't know about the heavy steering, sounds coincidental, but how many with their Hicas light coming on have an aftermarket steering wheel? That's the problem I've seen. The machining on the boss isn't accurate enough, so the car thinks you're turning a never ending corner. Hicas computer eventually throws a fault. Usually won't happen around town as you're continually turning corners, but a highway with long straight road is something else.

The spec. on the FDC-460A has it at 1 or 5 watts which is pretty impressive considering the $$$$$. I'd be interested to hear of comparisons to the Icom IC41s Always found Icom gear outstanding.

Guys, do some trouble shooting.................. Can't be diff hey, the noise is there while the car is stationary. Can't be gearbox hey, the noise is there while he's got the clutch in. Certainly sounds like box but he's got that clutch in. Can't be turbo as it spools up matching engine rpm, just like a supercharger and NOT like a turbo. So I'm thinking power steer pump waterpump Gates timing belt crook tensioner/idler Whatever, I wouldn't be thrashing it like that until I'd done some simple checks.

From a roll on, the Aristo is streets ahead, but from a standing start....... Stock Aristo has an open diff and will just leave a big single black line with the TCS warning light going nuts.

I doubt you'll do much good here. Conversions need that "hands on" perspective. Are you sure about the cam timing and IGN timing? Check it again. Is your VVT actually working? What actuator is on that turbo and what boost does it make? Are your knock sensors/harness etc plugged in and working properly? Did you give the ecu a speed signal? Neutral switch connection to ecu open? Use your stock AFM. The ecu has no capability to "learn" that you have fitted a Z32. I find it odd with that turbo, FMIC and stock ecu you haven't had the R/R jerks. Even with tall diff gearing, an Rb25 should get up and go in your lower gears once you make some boost.

You guys have to look outside the box a bit, give the car mags the flick. Engine driven turbochargers have been around on industrial engines forever. Most big locomotives use the 4000hp V12 2-stroke GM diesel which has 2-engine driven turbochargers. The turbos are shaft driven for low RPM scavenging and incorporate over-running clutches so that once exhaust gases reach sufficient velocity, the turbos are exhaust driven. The 18 cylinder Napier Delta series engines also had engine driven turbochargers, really old school.

Here you go. This is an 0.68 A/R and they're also available in 0.87. Very hard to find that stamped number, sometimes it's inside the exhaust flange.

Here's a 2835 ProS.

Yes a metal sleeve is pressed into the aluminium housing. No way will it just slip out and as suggested, you could try welding a turned aluminium hose barb onto the housing. Got to make you wonder about the condition of the rest of the engine, Welsch plugs, waterpump, etc etc.........