grigor

The pumps are typical Sureflow etc 12V water pressure units, usually set at 60psi. With anti syphon, non-return valves, filters and block nozzle detectors, there's a bit of gear to mount neatly. From feed back I've received, it makes no difference where the nozzle is mounted as there's a LOT of air blasting past it at WOT. I used the J-pipe as it's easy to drill and tap. Have experienced no missing or hiccups as the mixture is injected. You wouldn't even know it was running except for the warning light. Try the coolingmist website for more info. I have R33 fit up photos for anyone interrested.

And a Z32.

Anyone else using the Cooling Mist kit? Who's using boost input, AFM input, combination of both or perhaps you've modified the software? Either way, absolutely zero knock. Uses very little water/methanol on a highway trip and no more flashing yellow light. You could be tempted to add even more ign. Fantastic.

Forget the police, absolutely useless. Try your local council, parks and gardens. My old falcon got stolen in Griffith and I had a police incident report but no action. First I knew was when the council sent me a towing fee. They'd traced my car via the engine number, as the plates were gone, from NSW up to QLD where I live.

Hey I'm a cranky old fart. When ever I see guys using the starter to remove the balancer bolt I go Ape. There's a rough way and there's the correct way to do a job. Like removing the master pins from crawler tracks with a jelignite gun. It gets the job done but it's just plain stupid.

Randy, wake up. 4th is the correct gear. 1st loads up your countershaft etc and risks breaking the box, apart from being the wrong gear as you'll simply crank it through the brakes. Think about it.

Try SSS Automotive, they're selling it so should have all the info.

4th not 1st.

Hey guys engine driven turbo's have been around for ever on big stationary engines. The 4000hp GM powered locomotives have 2-engine driven turbos. Start up is different too in that the starter motors are timed to give a small rock, then a bigger one, and then start. This gets the turbos spinning and prevents the enormous torque from twisting off the turbo drive shafts, which have an over-running clutch for when the exhaust gasses take over. Not really designed for small engines though.

Take it back. Did you get tensioner and idler changed when the timing belt was done? It may be air-con tensioner bearings or others, but there should be no noises.

Heavy duty clutch and stock throw-out gear. Could be broken throw-out lever, crushed pivot ball, throw-out bearing, etc etc. Don't get too excited without further inspection.

Whatever the fault, make sure your pump is controlled by the ecu, not some switch etc. In the event of a crash, you don't need squirting fuel all over the place and the ecu will time out the pump when the engine stops.

Red 12V + Black 12V- White 12V+ switched instrument illumination Green signal from sensor.

Do what Rob32 said. It's the only way to ensure there wasn't crap in your oil drain bucket before you started. If the filter has metal shavings in the paper, there you go.

Quote. "I got the NSK bearings for $23 (Inner/outer bearing and the seal)" Post up your NSK part numbers. That price sounds very good.

Don't you just hate that. My son and I were doing his clutch and found a single 4mm dia ball bearing on the drop sheet. Had us absolute stuffed as there is NO-WHERE for it to go. Rang a clutch EXpert and he thought it went in the flywheel dowel pin hole to balance the crank. I thought bullshit as there is nothing to stop the ball from just falling out to get minced in the clutch plate. Finally discovered my big socket set was now missing the ball from its square drive. We'd used it and a heap of extensions to get at those bell housing top bolts.

Anyone who does loads of driving knows the only way to approach roos is with a steady foot, definately no BOV crap. Roos are so used to vehicle noise that they'll stand their ground UNLESS you back off. That's the minute they panic and go anywhere. It takes real nerve to see a heap of roos and still maintain your speed but if you do, they'll just watch you go by and keep eating. Try it some time, in someone else's car if you have doubts.

Fuel goes in the bottom engine fuel pipe and returns to tank on the top engine fuel pipe. Engine won't go the other way around.

Wish I had a $ for every time I've posted these part numbers. Tensioner NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806 Idler NSK 56TB 2801 B01 ENSL 309 Some of these numbers are probably batch codes, but they will get you the correct part at a realistic price from a bearing outlet.

Insured or not, that car was destined to go. They'd cased the place previously and knew the operation of the "security door". How many members have given their car to a performance tuning shop, panel shop, CD installer, alarm installer, insurance agent etc etc without any thought that one of their employees is on the take. Dead easy to get another key cut for early Lines and once inside, doesn't take long to kill an alarm or immobiliser. I think car alarms should forget the siren, just have the sound of screeching tyres and you'll have ACA or the other gang there long before the blue boys.

Did you see those pricks steal that blokes GTR as shown on ACA last night? Don't know if it was old footage but with video cameras over the place, they still got that car running in nothing flat, then just drove it away. Bloody thing had neons under it everywhere, someone must have seen it. No insurance, borrowed money for the car from his folks, pretty grim. I think all Skyline owners should make a mental note where they see another Line, you may have vital info to catch some of these bastards.

Most spanner twirlers know a waterpump can be installed without removing timing belt etc. I remove everything so I'm positive no rubbish has dropped down into the bottom cover, just waiting to get caught up in the crank pulley and snap the belt. When the pump comes off with that rush of water from the block...... Not good practice.

I think SK is suggesting anyone who just swaps 2-wires and some injector numbers is dreaming. There will be a lot of re-mapping involved which will eat into the $500 odd price saving.

Exhaust brake.