Mr Eps

YOUR A BRICK WALL!

be weary, you can get them off ebay cheap these days and while the power gains are significant you have to be REALLY careful because a lot of demand has picked up, because of their plug n play characteristics without the need of any dyno tune... they are particularly popular in the USA now... ...just be careful though off ebay, cos they look right, they work right, but they are probably a chinese copy, i've heard of all different problems such as opposing loom pinouts, they are often made mass produced in china, which is why the prices are so low, i personally if you're looking at installing a seagull i would get in touch with either sydney_kid or creativ motorsports, they will order you in or even custom fabricate a seagull for your car, this is the best route as you still have the reliability of an aus / jap built seagull but the significant power gains are still there the induction noise my seagull makes as it spools up around... 1.5revs? there abouts, oh... just music to my ears! i strongly suggest them presonally

man, you always ask us for advice, for things we cannot advise you on, how much is it worth to you? think about that, come up with a price that you want, and advertise it! remember, an item is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it. look around in the for sale section, guage your price on that, use the search function. i don't really see how this is relevant to the section.

that's the wonder front bar this is the wonder kit, wonder have re-updated their styling to the haruyama style of kit, originlab have made a kit using this style as a base, it's a little less dramatic, also there's the new company that makes that gross kit... ...to be realistic there's HEAPS of cefiro bodykits for sale... but the truth is they're all the same, some look better than others, everybody got the URAS kit thinking that was the shit, then they found out.... it is not.... haha but really there's heaps of threads in here about body styling dude, just use the search function!

i just realised i never put up pics of the mode parfume bold world design toyota crown OLOLOLOL i'm such a RAGING top bloke... i'll post pics here when i get home, you guys may want to spadge... if you're as nerdy as i am

everyone knows i still have the best looking NA, even though it's a turbo'ed NA now... it's still the most beautiful! looks a lil different now but, will have new rims soon

well, this is always the assumption, but has anyone really tried upping the boost on the DE+T??? i wouldn't personally cos i'm not really after too big power output myself... ...but i can honestly my RB20DE+T is the shit.... i'm very very very very impressed with it, and the fact it's been a DIY thing... the response is great, it's got a torquier growl to it than my friends R33 rb25det, and it's just sweet in general... BUT as far as upping the boost goes, i heard from my brother some guy he was talking to has an rb20de+T, is running stainless manofolds (same as me, but mine are better) and he has an ebay 25/30 setup, with boost up to 12 psi and he's running for 20xxx kms hard now and hasd no trouble! i really do think that being this is such unchartered waters and being so touch n go / process of elimination is that everyone's just scared to try new things, could you imagine how worried the people who did the first rb30det conversion were?? i'd be scared too though, all that work, down the drain, sure, you can pick up a new engine cheap... but there's no better feeling than knowing you've done it by yourself

unfortunately i have a job.... ...and i've been perfomring an rb20de+T conversion on my car, i'm very soon going to start a new project involving a 1964 chevrolet impala lowrider black with chrome accents and purple paisley design interior it will be the most murder looking car on the face of the universe... in 1/24 scale... ...i also have a Junction Produce honda oddyssey... can't wait to get my life back to normal!!!

wtf is this in the general forum for!? this should get locked, even by wasteland standards!

oh my god sorry i've just read the entire thread you guys are retards like unbelievable!!!! ok, the reason your lights look like ass on the inside is cos of corrosion from the elements, it happens, drilling a hole in your light will allow more water vapour into your lights thus making the matters worse as condensation builds, not to mention cause your headlight globes to blow due to condensation / oil residue on in your headlight unit... so please, silicon seal this back up and admit you stuffed up. cut your losses, and start again with a wiser idea... you must now take the headlight apart, all you need is 80degree heat and 8 minutes max, check it, you should be able to wedge the tip of a butterknife in to get you started... if it's still not budging, put it back and check, use the buter knife to get you started then gently GENTLY GENTLY pry the unit apart with your big manly hands. if your oven won't fit it then use a hairdryer / heatgun, once you've got it apart, polish it all up with a plastics polish, make sure you do this by hand otherwise you will melt the delicate nature of the plastic. once it's clean on both sides, reseal the unit all back together by DELICATELY using a silicone sealant or sikaflex... don't stuff this up, if you're worried you're going to stuff it up then don't do it... MAKE SURE THE UNIT IS 100% sealed before it goes back, and remember, as with all glue and sealant, LESS IS MORE DON'T OVER DO THIS.

i think the american government is behind all this, the signs point to the truth, if you're too blind to see the truth then you will never understand the US government caused 9/11, same as how they caused this seagull...

burnt at the stake... ONLY A WITCH WOULD KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS!!! I CALL SHENANIGANS!!!! EVERYBODY GRAB A BROOM!!!! IT'S SHENANGIANS AGAIN

maybe some pods from a coupe might fit up also? don't quote me on that...

craved i see your point but the issue i was trying to raise but sort of *didn't* is that this could prove to be more costly than simply handing it over, they may not HAVE to take it back to bare metal, they may just have to spray over roughed up paint because they see the paint will stick! this will mean less primer and undercoating and will save more money! i am just stating that point more, that it may cost more in the end to actually sand it back yourself, cos you're basically giving yourself i hard rogering by causing the paint shop more work be careful listening to car forum know-it-alls (that isn't directed at any of you guys btw) but be weary of taking a guy on a car forums word over a professional, that's not to do with ALL cases, but some cases common sense should tell you what is in your best interests...

can i just say this is a bad idea... a really really bad idea not a fun path to go down... most panel n paint shops don't go down to bare metal cos there's not that much point, as far as they can see... they may not want you to go down that far cos it will end up making their job a lot harder once you go down to bare metal any dings n dents will be visible and the paint shop can remove them easilly... on their own time. so theres some reasons NOT to do this in the quality of workmanship sense.. understand this... good panel n painters are a virtue... they know what they're doing, some things are best left to the professionals to get a better job, and stripping the paint and priming it yourself may be causing them more headaches than favours i'm assuming you want to strip the paint to save money so your panel shop doesn't have to do this... think of it like this, a quick analogy for you... when you go to mcdonals... and you get a cheeseburger, but you don't want pickles or onions, or mustard, you're getting a less quality burger with less ingredients... but do you pay less for the burger in the end? NO. you still pay the same price, when you go to KFC and you get a zinger burger and don't want lettuce, is the burger then cheaper cos of no lettuce? NO you STILL pay $2.20 for the cheeseburger, and you STILL pay $3.85 for the zinger... but what do you have? a crappy cheeseburger that only a sick gangly little child would like, and a zinger burger with no crisp shredded fresh iceberg lettuce. same as this, the quality of job you would be getting might not be as high, and you will still get charged the similiar amount of a regular respray, so i think ti would be a good idea to just bite the bullet and deal with the regular costing, don't take these kinda of matters into your own hands, panel n paint shops do this kind of thing everyday so they know what they're doing, and no offense... but you do not know what you're doing. it would be a shame for you to see what you consider a sub par job after removing the engine and the interior bits and stuff... anybody else agree with me? or does everyone wanna be "the man"?

there is actually a VT commodore getting around my area that has WORK EQUIP no foolies genuine work equip....

and for all you other blood sucking scumbags (just kidding) http://www.toyotaimportsforum.co.uk/articl...mp;pagenumber=1 i know i know it's soarer headlights but skylines would be the same more or less... as for the series 2 headlights fitting, what is with you guys? you should all know, the series 2 has a different bonnet, front bumber, and front quarter panels... not worth your time... enjoy!

check your pm this is urgent cos you will make a mistake.

dude go the 16 inch ROH adrenalins you can't go wrong they're SO good!! nobody in the world has ever made such a good well engineered rim as the ROH adrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaahahahahhahahaha sorry i can't keep a straight face... ..seriously though, if you like the ROH's, get 'em we're not here to provide advice as to what you want, but i will say this,if you get those rims, the next week afterwards you will understand the quality of a good wheel, and you will cometo realise that the ROH's aren't what you were looking for afterall, and you would like to sell them for some better engineered, better designed, better fitting japanese wheels... they don't cost that much more than the australian ones, which aren't actually australian, they are chinese... ....you're not a chinese person... ARE YOU!? haha, but seriously you will buy them and regret it, and then when it comes time to sell, you won't be able to sell them to ANYBODY ever and you will be stuck with the dreadded curse that is crappy rims sitting in your garage that nobody wants...

i personally like the spoiler, not necassarilly the stock one, but i FREAKING LOVE the east bear one... i think it's east bear... gimme a sec! ok so maybe it's not the east bear but it's basically a little notch style spoiler that goes straight up not out, made from fibreglass... very simple but hot diggidy does it look nice i have a little teeny weeny M3 style lip on my cefiro... i love it!

now that's what i call black on black crime!

hmm, i can't really help you as far as a brand of rear bar as per say... but have you considered simply painting the black surround you body colour? or matching the rear bar up with the sidesteps you have? i think just a simple spray of the black bit could be all you need! 1990's JGTC cars had that style, front, sides, but no rear... that looked cool!

there is thread posted about this posted in the sticky section, please use this!

RIP ceffy... ...see this is what i'm tlaking about when i bag drifters out... you drift on public roads cos you bought a fully sick cefiro, this is what happens... good luck trying to find another one... shame to see a cefiro smashed but that driver needs to stop sugar coating himself and take responsibility for his dickhead ass actions... who is he trying to kid "accidental" sorry i'm eing rude i don't even know the guy but still.... i mean... come one man... ...... ... ...come on...

i gotta say i never bothered to reply to this gay thread... ...but i love the rb20? i don't get why everyone bags it out? i see no problem with it, mine's an rb20de+T and it runs sweetly i wouldn't change it to an SR for the world somply cos i just think everyone nutrides the SR for no good reason!