Mr Eps

oh it's RB25... i didn't know that then i don't know in that case man, sorry! even still - enzed guy would probably know what to do

ps. go to bed. an amatuer mechanic needs his sleep also - your avatar is creepy as shit. i have re-occuring stress dreams about that sort of shit man. that's coming from a guy who's been in a chemical fire.

dude... the oil return lines and everything are already on the block! they're just "tapped off" also not that this matters if you're paranoid about it... but think about a drill... think of the "tread" pattern the filings go "out" not "in" just drill carefully but yes pay a pirtek / enzed monkey to do it. don't make your hair go grey with this crap. they supply n fit everything while you go inside n drink a pepsi max.

ps - this is perhaps te funniest thing i've read here all week. hahah

hey... okay here's what you do. first of all.. this method sounds strange and it will be MOST noticable with bad rims (i mean RIM rims... not "wheels") go to bunnings get a very fine steel wool. no. not that dishwashing crap that you use to get black stuff off pots. this is steel. wool. SIFA make it. looks like that. rip a chunk off. big chunk. the bigger the chunk, the more surface area you have to scrub with. the more surface area. the less pressure. less pressure, less chance of scratching. get it? use either water - or olive oil as a lubricant... i suggest olive oil as it won't ake the steel wool RUST. use a lot of it. gently rub the steel wool on the wheel. if the stains won't come out, apply a little bit more pressure etc the basic premise of this is... steel wool is soft as butter. but it is still a METAL. your aluminium / steel rims are a harder metal, and will not "give in" to the steel wool easilly the steel wool sacrifices itself to clean the metal. give it a go if you so wish - i imagine that there is a certain element of risk doing this method... but i've done it plenty of times on my wheels which - at one stage were VERY badly corroded. steel wool is about 8/9 bucks everyone else take note. oh and wash the olive oil off the rim using a soap / detergent / shampoo (dah)

lol wtf??? engine out??? nein. first of all how the hell did u get filings in there??? here's what i did. rip everything i needed that would be in the way - out of the way called a pirtek / enzed guy he fitted the lines up and everything for about 300 bucks dont stuff around ripping out engines n stuff mind you this was on a 2 litre not 2.5

YOU'RE getting popular! no seriously i've never seen ANY work schwert or varianza in WA... maybe they're more common in VIC??? but then again this car will (i hope) take a lot of people by suprise... ie: not "just another blody soarer" - heard on one of the forums yesterday some guy here in perth got in a high speed chase in one and smashed it up at high speeds.. because he decided to run from the cops.. (y) whadda guy. anyway i would LOVE it if some people thought "hey wait that soarer is a little different to that 1991 V8 EMV POS it certainly had that effect on me!

depends on how crafty u r shud u need to modify it a/d also how many stages the bag has... most cars that are of that age tend to be single stage... newer cars tend to be dual stage... and require a lot of modification to work.. that said... never know.. maybe v35 or m35 might match up??? but yeah... can always roll with no airbag.. its a dumb idea esp if u hav insurance but if u want to do it then nobody will find out wat u did unless u crash

ironchef. my friend has a VL commodore.. i've bought a 1992 Late build cefiro with an Rb25DET but someone tells me i can't import it or something to do with the thing you have to do to install the babyseat holders. can you makes things better me? ahaha on a lighter note... spoke to that guy again earlier today... luckilly for him... he's spoken to a reputable car dealer here in Perth... who i won't name... (because if i do disclose that name - then everything gets linked up as to who did what and when bla bla bla) but a very reputable dealer in perth has agreed to handle all brokerage, compliance... importation and other dealings regarding these cars.. so if that company is reading this - you might be able to work out who you are and who you've helped... and with any luck - know exactly how much bacon you've saved for the client in question... my hat goes off to you guys! that said - guy was telling me this really weird other parts to his events after i asked a few questions ....i asked him if he wouldn't mind telling me how much FOB the cars were he said - sure i'd love to tell you but i don't have a clue myself... the cars were imported thru a mate that lives in japan (hence why they thought they could do a personal import) the "mate" has bought the three cars... and has given them to the guy... and said "you sell these in australia, make the profit... after you've sold them... i'll tell you how much i paid... and invoice you for what i paid" so this can go one of two ways either this person is a pathological liar who cannot tell the truth to me... (which i personally read his body language as a fibber IMO) or someone that lives in Japan is possibly taking someone in australia for a bit of a ride... because that sounds to me like... a very non-beleivable story... =/

i made an EPIC post here but my fucking cunting work computer owned me and deleted my post. it had a lot of info here short hand info. the old wives tale of using cut compound to clean your lights is a very old addage and a BAD idea!!! cut compound is ROUGH and puts tiny scratches in your lenses. you scratch up your lenses,. you light goes EVERYwhere. furthermore. cut compound is for CUTTING BACK AND REMOVING OLD PAINT. it has no UV protectant in it and little to no wax properties which the fragile perspex requires to be protected from UV rays. particularly australia's sun. which has bionic UV rays which tend to float around about the one billion UV rating. the australian sun is what yellows and corrodes your headlights in the first place. so they need to be protected. SO DONT USE COMPOUND. there. now that's sorted. plastX has been around a few years. it has UV protectance in it which is a plus for "future" protecting. only do a small section at a time though. dont do all the headlight at once. or ninjas will kill your family and eat your KFC family box. the LATEST product to hit the market here in AUS... is blue magic... australia currently is out of stock... so you might want to order it online.. . the USA lexus guys SWEAR by it and say that it's yards better than plast-X. i would love to get some myself... there is also a new ADR approved headlight tint (barely noticeable depending on which colour you get - ie: light blue is "barely there") the head light tint protects against ALL UV light and doesn't come off too easilly... it's been ADR approved to combat the aging headlight problems this country now has with many euro / american / japaense cars with plastic headlights and lazy owners who don't know to "maintain" their headlights.. (check out ANY chrysler neon) google it to find an applicator near you... it's called crystallyte most applicators will PROPERLY restore your headlight professionally and apply the tint for about 300AUD (btw - crystallyte must be applied by an approved applicator for it to be ADR approved)

i hurt people with my ghey!?!?!?!?! okay SOMEONE here... won't say who... but SOMEONE here has an 11ty billion RWHP R33 and is selling it to buy a car that comes standard with 2x 20" subs and driver and passenger side kebab holders as standard equipment... i won't say who... but it's not me... that's for sure!

does anybody know where to attain the collectors edition yet? i will definitely be placing my order down for that... did anybody notice the tow ring that comes with it? sugoi-des.

hahaha - im a little old lady. get used to it

i'm so happy i could just crap my pants!

kristian's a busy man. i will field this question. no.

no YOU do! edit - they look nothing like them

hahahha iEps 2.0 providing you get a wrx 07++ hatch type i'm okay with it.. arthur T3 dont hat on swifts until you drive one !!! that's all i can say anyway must be current model wrx. you buy it and i wll like you. you get an older one. i will do a burnout on your lawn. it will upset you as you will have less lawn. and lay off the jazz guys. they look cool as shit!

oi be nice to black! *faps to pic of my soarer*

awww cheers buddy.. that turbzrb25 guy... he's alright .. got a bit peeved due to a chemical imbalance because birds and i called his bluff... but ... eh! as for importing versus buying local - buying local you have the car that's in the yard. and that car will be there tomorrow, next week, 2 months time or whenever someone buys it... auction in japan... you have thousands and thousands of cars... being interchanged each day.. if you don't like any of the cars there - check back tomorrow - you have the right to be picky! yes white would be cheaper but if you want black - get black... you won't regret it... personally on a supra my favourite colours are white n silver... look like angry shooting stars.. i doubt transmission is going to kill your insurance - shop around! you'll find something that you will like again thoguh, importing vs buying local - think of it like this, you walk into a dealer lot... they have a supra for sale for 14K. you factor out their staff wages, mortgages, insurance packages, warranties etc... strip the "deal" of the car right back... you factor out the delaers profit... that's what the car's worth without the dealer comfort so while i have no "issue" with buying a car from a dealer... i will say... 14K spent on a supra at a dealer, versus 14K spent on a car you import yourself... you have a lot more oney to play with when buying "at auction" think of it like... a chocolate cake... inside that chocolate cake is a lot of different ingredients if you take that cake and seperate the most important ingredient - chocolate - you should know that it's best to get the best chocolate... why would you cheapen out on the chocolate... then spend extra on the icing sugar garnish? sure - the cake will look better and more presentable... but when you bite into it and TASTE the cake... you will know that the better cake is the one with the good chocolate - cos once you eat it... you'll know the chocolate (car) is more important than the icing sugar topping (dealer warranty, ability to "see the car and touch it" etc) dealers buy the cheapest chocolate they can find... that way they can charge what they want for their icing sugar!

thanks but no thanks! fyi - soarer is 5x114.3 same as skyline... suitable offsets are +35 thru to +10, widths up to about 10.5 / 11 but unfortunately i'm not after those style of wheels... i don't wanna knock you but i'm simply after Work Schwert SC 2 as can be seen here on this 40 series soarer and this z33

and difficult to break la bomba = this may come as a shock to you but i am merely a keyboard warrior... i am not a broker, nor a vehicle compliancer, nor a vehicle examiner... i am just a guy that likes cars... in actual fact.. my mere post count and the fact i've been here since 2004 is literally the only reason i have evaded being banned by administration officers here on SAU. ask anybody. they'll be quick to agree that they wish they could ban me. luckily for me they haven't got the mean heart to do that but yes.. this is my OPINION... the supra - sure you could comply it, why not! but it'd be a pain in the arse with all those mods... most reputable places would have to remove all that aftermarket gear and replace it with standard gear... unless they wanted to comply it with the body kit on... which some would be willing to do but they're risking their livelihood by doing that sort of business.. again the GTR i imagine extensively modified, it's got boost guages, exh temp guages etc next to the steering wheel, apexi SAFCII... turbo timers greddy BBK upgrade... it has a lot of "bits" on it that i also recognise in the interior that i cant put my finger on as to what they are haha but yeah - that GTR is a steal at the price that it's being sold for - i'm just saying "R" grading isn't always a bad thing!!! if the inspection shows that repairs have been properly made and the rails and chassis check out... you pick up a bargain and who else is to know about it? =P

haha - just get a brass triple plate button clutch n go for a drive in metro sydney! you'll learn to love autos then and i would say that that car would be R-graded due to modifications... not because of accident repair.. another example is graded R but doesn't seem to have accident history!!!

it seems we all have different tastes in cars... while i prefer a black cruiser with subtle modifications.. blaqboi prefers a car that you can't tell which is the front and which is the back =P just kidding bro.. but seriously that car is overdone 2damaxtreme!!! as for the "push a accelerator down and having a computer to change your gearshifts" arguement... turn 22/23 and you'll watch that opinion change =) you'll realise that it is not fun crawling in city traffic lifting your clutch leg after changing into first and balancing the accelerator lightly so as not to slam into the car in front of you and focussing and concentrating and watching and EVERYTHING and moving one metre then having to stop completely again because you're stuck in traffic =P

the wrx is zippy?? nawww well aren't you just a cutie