Incurafy

A little late, but thanks for all the help. I've decided not to buy the turbo and will continue as is. Cheers.

I have the stock R32 ECU. I know what the turbo is because I was told that buy the guy I bought it off. I also checked the stamp on compressor housing when changing the dump pipe. That's interesting. I was under the impression that the RB25DET turbo was slightly larger than the RB20DET and added around 500rpm to the spool time, while the VG30DET turbo was even bigger again and took a lot longer to spool? At least, that's what I got from reading the threads around here. While I've got your attention, my turbo has 45V1 stamped on the compressor housing, and from what I've found on these forums, that is a VG30 turbo. Sound right to you? Regardless, I think I'll swap it over and see what difference it makes. It will be easier for me to wrap my head around a diagnosis of any problems if I can see the difference between the stock turbo and the VG30DET turbo (never driven a stock one). Cheers mate!

Hi, My R32 has a VG30-something turbo on it that came with the car when I bought it. It's had several problems with boost creep and the like, but I've managed to fix that. The problem I have now is that it just doesn't hit boost (only 10 psi) until 4500-5000rpm which makes it unresponsive and shitty lower in the rev range. Obviously this is because it's an RB20 and it's a mismatched turbo for a 2.0L engine, and that's fine. However, I've got the chance to buy a stock RB20 turbo with literally no shaft play for $50. I don't care about the high end power loss, I just want more early-mid responsive while I save for something better. My question is, should I be able to just remove the VG30-something turbo and replace it with the stock one, or would the conversion to the VG30 turbo have required modifying something which would stop me from doing a straight swap back to the stock turbo? Sorry for the nooby question, but I'm still learning as I go. Don't want to buy the stock turbo, pull everything apart, then find out that I can't put it on for some reason. Cheers, Tom

Actually she was pretty slim, must have been the owner before them. Awesome, I'll sell these and lookout for a pair of 33's. Thanks mate! Much easier to sell them as a pair, sorry mate.

Are they definitely wider? I thought the 32/33 seats were the same and the 34's were bigger.

I bought a pair of R32 GTR seats in excellent condition a few weeks ago, and after sitting in the passenger seat thought they were a great fit. It wasn't until I got home and installed them that I realised that the drivers seat is somehow narrower than the passenger to the point that sitting in them for more than 5 minutes results in pain in my sides and thighs as the bolstering digs into me. I can tell that they're great seats, and despite the fact that I'm sitting on them instead of in them, they still hold me better than my stock GTS-T seats. There's also no problems with ADR approval and the police won't look twice. This is pretty important to me. I was going to sell them, but after a buyer screwed me around I'm considering modifying them to suit me. Has anyone done this? Is it an easy thing to do, or should I just sell them and try and find something that will fit me comfortably? Will I be compromising the integrity of the seats if I attempt to widen the bolstering by pulling/bending metal railing? Cheers for any help. EDIT: Worth noting that the passenger seats are 100% fine. They're a little snug, but I could very easily sit in them for a few hours without any issues. What's up with that? Surely that's not normal, lol. EDIT2: Not sure if this is the right section, didn't think it belonged in fabrication though. Apologies if it's wrong.

They come up all the time on Facebook pages, just like a bunch of JDM parts and RB parts pages for your area and you'll get one pretty quickly if you pay attention.

Aye, 20+ year old lights though, it's not surprising that they don't work. I'm going to attempt to take it off, clean it, wire it with red lights that act like the brake lights and seal it up when I put it back on to stop the moisture getting back in. Shouldn't be too hard, I think.

I didn't even realise that it was supposed to light up! I just learned that yesterday from a guy at a meet, so now I'm even more inclined to get it working again. From what I've been told, it's a factory optional and it should light up in blue, red, or green, depending on what the original owner got it with. Glad I'm not the only one with the moisture problem though. That sounds like the way to go, cheers mate.

So atm the lettering on the back of my R32 looks like this: Is the panel removable to clean/restore inside the lettering? If so, how does it come off? I've tried pulling at it gently to remove it and it's stuck pretty good, but it looks like it's removable. If I can get it off, what's likely to be causing the moisture buildup? It's been there since I bought the car in January and I've only just now gotten the time to do something about it. Cheers.

Thanks for the help guys, I figured out that I can use the ECU diagnostic mode to see if there are any problems and sure enough I'm getting error code 12 which is the MAF sensor. I cleaned it, checked all of the vacuum/pressure hoses (all tight, no leaking), went for a short drive, then tried the diagnostic again but still have the same error code (and the car still ran rough and went into limp mode at one point). I'm going to buy a "new" one from eBay (reconditioned/etc), and I've sent the seller a question to confirm that it's the right part, but until then, does anyone know anything else I should try before I spend $150? Also, I'm positive that I don't have a HICAS lockout bar installed, and the HICAS unit is still in the boot. For some reason I can't get the car to enter the HICAS diagnostic, regardless of how many times I try. Any ideas? Cheers.

Anyone? It's happening with more frequency now, but it's still inconsistent.

G'day, this is my first thread and I wasn't sure where to post it, sorry if it's in the wrong section. I bought an R32 GTS-T back in January, and aside from a split radiator hose, haven't had any problems until now. The first problem started about a week ago when my car lost power for a second or two on a gear change. It was irregular, but I thought nothing of it. Later, it lost power entirely, and I had to clutch start it (while still doing 60-70km/h) to keep driving. The problem has persisted over the last week. In some cases, I'll clutch start it, but the engine won't go above 2-2500 RPM (as though it's hitting a limiter, or losing power whenever it gets that high). Turning the engine off for a few seconds and then turning it back on will "fix it" for a little while, sometimes, while other times it will repeat several times through turning it on/off. Last night the car lost power on the way home, clutch start failed because it wouldn't go above 2-2.5k RPM, so I had to pull over. Then for the first time the car started when I turned the key, went straight to 1,500 RPM, then turned off completely. This happened several times in a row. I waited two minutes, tried again, and the car drove the rest of the way home without issue. Short version: Car will lose power for a couple of seconds while driving, then continue like normal Car will lose power while driving, require clutch start to continue driving Car will lose power while driving, require clutch start, but engine won't go above 2-2.5k RPM, have to pull over and turn car off and on again Car will idle at 1,000 RPM, but will not go above 2-2.5k RPM Car will start, go straight up to 1.5k RPM, then turn off completely It's likely worth nothing that the car is equipped with a Mongoose alarm system which includes an immobiliser and turbo timer. I turned the alarm off at the unit under the bonnet with a key a few days before this problem started (the alarm was more annoying than anything, but the immobiliser still worked, so I thought it was safe). I've since turned it back on, thinking that was the cause of the problem, with no changes. I've rung an autosparky who's gonna take a look at it next week, but in the mean time I'd love to be able to have something to tell him. Has anyone ever heard of this problem before, or know what the likely culprit is? It seems like an ignition problem, but I know SFA about cars and am still (slowly) learning. The second problem is minor, and doesn't seem to affect the running of the car in any way. The HICAS light has started staying on for 2-5 minutes after starting the car, then turning off. I've never had it come on during cornering, no matter how hard I go, so I have no idea if it even works. Does anyone have any ideas? I've tried doing the HICAS diagnostic to see if it works, btw, but I've never been able to get it to do anything. Cheers. PS: I bought my R32 from a bloke named Kyle who I'm 99.99% sure is/was a member of this forum. If you read this, what's up!

Excuse my ignorance, but what is "fast"? Cheers.

Yeah, I can't see why either, but the last thing I want to do is get the parts and find out that they don't fit. I sent them an e-mail yesterday morning and haven't had a response yet. If I don't get one by tonight I'll give them a call tomorrow. Thanks mate.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I figured it'd be better to bump one than to post another to ask the same question. Will the parts you got from RHD fit on a HCR32? The parts say that they're compatible with a BNR32, and I have no idea if they're interchangeable. Cheers.