mark morris

Yep, I still got them. make an offer.

No mate sorry you missed out, I sold them for $120

Yep thats both of them, Genuine in boxes.

Well, I got riped off. I paid over $500 And like I said these are practically new. How much would they cost after getting them here. In light of this finding, if some one wants to make an offer post it up and I will cosider it.

Prices: *std turbos,(seals, wheels all ok) with dumps and front pipe- $550 ono * std cams, no dents or hard facing missing- $300 ono (aparently good upgrade for rb20?) * Apexi pod kit, suits std AFM's-$350 *SOLD* * new O2 sensors, (to suit r32 dumps) 150 ono *SOLD* * std radiator- $carton of beer *SOLD* * Full set of brembo discs, machined ready to be fitted. $200 ono Oh, and I am in Welshpool. Regards Mark.

Got some stuff here I want to get rid of: * APEXI pod filter kit to suit RB26 come with piping bracketry and filters-like new in box. *set of stock RB26 cams. *Set of stock turbos, done 75,000kms. *Stock dump pipes and front "Y" pce. *stock brake rotors to suit Brembo's ground and ready to fit. *brand new R32 RB26 O2 sensors-still in boxes. *stock GTR radiator. If there is something you are interested in, PM me and make an offer.

Interesting... I have a fairly modded 33vspec and have done numerous heavy launces with alot of wheel spin and even done doughnuts in fwd, and never had ATTESA or ALSD lights on, other than at start up. So I would say these lights only come on when there is fault, like the rest of the fault lights on the dash.

I did one of these in my 33gtr and had the same problem. I readjusted the belt three times in total as the first time I think it was a little tight, and it did quieten down as I loosened it off, though I went too loose one of the times just to see if the noise went away, it did'nt. I have had it in for about 5000kms and it is pretty much gone now, though you can still hear it if you are looking for it. Only after the engine is at running temp of course. hope that this is helpful. Oh, forgot to mention I did cams a adjustable gears at the same time, so the belt fit pretty snug in the gear teeth, and the drive gear was not worn. If your gears are worn it is pretty easy to tell by the lip as the belt dose not cover the complete gear and only weres on about 95% of the face of the tooth.

best way to check the compression would be with a cylinder leakage tester, if you have access to one. Other wise the only other way will be to hook up the starter. I would at least have some one to brace the starter in place before trying to turn it over, as if the starter flexes the bell housing plate enough to dis-engauge the ring gear you could damage it, and the starter. regards, mark

Hi All, I havent been on this site for a while, but just got an email as I was still subscribed to this thread. I still have this problem I have not had another tune yet but I will shortly as I just fitted a larger front mount ect. so I will let you know how it goes. its of the road right now as I have some panel work getting done so this is all probably still a month or so away. As for the custom intake I made; All I made is a replacement ally pipe from the AFM to the rear turbo, wich now tees off into the same pipe on the fromt turbo, the rest of the intake consists of a HKS intercooler and hard piping kit and 80mm apexi super suction kit, where the pods just bolt straight onto the AFM's I have heard of this problem when people have moved the pods and AFM's closer to the turbos, they say that the AFM's should be as far away as possible so most of the back surges dont make it to the AFM's and get read twice as intake air. though my AFM's are in the same spot as when it was stock, which is about as far away as you can go anyway, with out making some very large modifications. Stock blow off's are now not an option for me as I have no room for the recirculation pipe be hind my new larger intercooler. none of these are really questions nor answers to any of your questions. just letting you guys know what I have done so far. "Jim x" I would definitly try to sort out that vacume leak first before getting to worried about the shuffeling, as it maybe contributing. I am guessing you have already tried to set the idle AAC valve ect.... is it pulling a decent amount of vacume during idle on you boost guage?? make sure the vacume sides of your brake booster and clutch vacume assist are not leakig internally by just disconecting them and pluging the holes in the intake. vacume leaks can be sneaky little barstards! good luck! Regards, Mark.

Yep! get em. I have a set of pond cams and I gained 80rwhp 900 rpm earlier! after diling them in on dyno. but lost 5 hp at top after doing inlet, and actually got 10 more hp at the top after doing exaust, so I ended up gaining top end as well. Os Giken $300 a set. = bargin.

Ok, its just it wasnt doing it at all when the engine was stock, ecm, injectors, ams turbos, etc.... just will have to get stock bov's and give it a go. thanks again.

Ok, so do the stock BOV's recirculated all the time? just want to make sure this is going to solve my problem, as I dont have any stock BOV's. they gone when i bought the car, and will have to buy some to test it out. Also has any one heard of a GTR shuffleing during idle? thought base timing may have been out, but it is correct. Thanks for replys.

Hi every one, I have a 33 gtr with the usual mods for about 300-350 rwkw. * n1s * z32s * pond cams, gears * pfc * larger intake piping with twin pods * full exhaust * injectors (700cc), pump, rail, reg, etc. "keep in mind I done all of this in one go from an stock engine" My issue is a surge noise coming, (shuffling from pod top pod) from air filters). Now when I made the new intake piping, I did not put the link tube in between the two turbos, didn't think it was necessary but boy was I wrong! the thing wouldn't even idle, let a lone drive properly. any way I made a piece to link the two, behind the afms obviously. and the surging was removed and the car became drivable, did tune got over 300kw, driving quite well, other than that shuffle between the turbos (compressor surge at cruise). just wanting to try and get rid of it apparently a lot of gtrs have this problem when the things are opened up i.e., 80mm afms etc. Now I have heard a few things such as the original bovs actually recirculate slightly when a after market vent to atmosphere would normally be closed , if this is the case, I guess it would help as what I think is happening is the air is being forced against the closed, or almost closed throttle body at idle or cruise, and backing up through one turbo and then the other, so if the air at this point was vented to the intake side of the turbo instead of backing up to the outlet side I guess it would work. but then if the original bovs do recirculate all the time then how would it make boost?? I ask this as the car has those poxy supper sequential hks bovs on it, (not my doing they were on the car when I bought it.) Also I have heard that linking the two signal wires from the afms to the ecm so they read the same voltage also can have some effect, this sounds a little dodgy but have hear that they do that when running two afms on a large single set up. I do think it may be something to do with the afms double reading air as I know it was when I had no link pipe in the intake as you could see the afm voltages on the pfc. but now they are pretty close to the same. any feed back, opinions, experiences etc. on this would be appreciated as it pissing me off, especially at idle. Regards, Mark.

nope, I have switched the boost controler off.