mark morris

Yep, I still got them. make an offer.

No mate sorry you missed out, I sold them for $120

Yep thats both of them, Genuine in boxes.

Well, I got riped off. I paid over $500 And like I said these are practically new. How much would they cost after getting them here. In light of this finding, if some one wants to make an offer post it up and I will cosider it.

Prices: *std turbos,(seals, wheels all ok) with dumps and front pipe- $550 ono * std cams, no dents or hard facing missing- $300 ono (aparently good upgrade for rb20?) * Apexi pod kit, suits std AFM's-$350 *SOLD* * new O2 sensors, (to suit r32 dumps) 150 ono *SOLD* * std radiator- $carton of beer *SOLD* * Full set of brembo discs, machined ready to be fitted. $200 ono Oh, and I am in Welshpool. Regards Mark.

Got some stuff here I want to get rid of: * APEXI pod filter kit to suit RB26 come with piping bracketry and filters-like new in box. *set of stock RB26 cams. *Set of stock turbos, done 75,000kms. *Stock dump pipes and front "Y" pce. *stock brake rotors to suit Brembo's ground and ready to fit. *brand new R32 RB26 O2 sensors-still in boxes. *stock GTR radiator. If there is something you are interested in, PM me and make an offer.

Interesting... I have a fairly modded 33vspec and have done numerous heavy launces with alot of wheel spin and even done doughnuts in fwd, and never had ATTESA or ALSD lights on, other than at start up. So I would say these lights only come on when there is fault, like the rest of the fault lights on the dash.

I did one of these in my 33gtr and had the same problem. I readjusted the belt three times in total as the first time I think it was a little tight, and it did quieten down as I loosened it off, though I went too loose one of the times just to see if the noise went away, it did'nt. I have had it in for about 5000kms and it is pretty much gone now, though you can still hear it if you are looking for it. Only after the engine is at running temp of course. hope that this is helpful. Oh, forgot to mention I did cams a adjustable gears at the same time, so the belt fit pretty snug in the gear teeth, and the drive gear was not worn. If your gears are worn it is pretty easy to tell by the lip as the belt dose not cover the complete gear and only weres on about 95% of the face of the tooth.

best way to check the compression would be with a cylinder leakage tester, if you have access to one. Other wise the only other way will be to hook up the starter. I would at least have some one to brace the starter in place before trying to turn it over, as if the starter flexes the bell housing plate enough to dis-engauge the ring gear you could damage it, and the starter. regards, mark

Hi All, I havent been on this site for a while, but just got an email as I was still subscribed to this thread. I still have this problem I have not had another tune yet but I will shortly as I just fitted a larger front mount ect. so I will let you know how it goes. its of the road right now as I have some panel work getting done so this is all probably still a month or so away. As for the custom intake I made; All I made is a replacement ally pipe from the AFM to the rear turbo, wich now tees off into the same pipe on the fromt turbo, the rest of the intake consists of a HKS intercooler and hard piping kit and 80mm apexi super suction kit, where the pods just bolt straight onto the AFM's I have heard of this problem when people have moved the pods and AFM's closer to the turbos, they say that the AFM's should be as far away as possible so most of the back surges dont make it to the AFM's and get read twice as intake air. though my AFM's are in the same spot as when it was stock, which is about as far away as you can go anyway, with out making some very large modifications. Stock blow off's are now not an option for me as I have no room for the recirculation pipe be hind my new larger intercooler. none of these are really questions nor answers to any of your questions. just letting you guys know what I have done so far. "Jim x" I would definitly try to sort out that vacume leak first before getting to worried about the shuffeling, as it maybe contributing. I am guessing you have already tried to set the idle AAC valve ect.... is it pulling a decent amount of vacume during idle on you boost guage?? make sure the vacume sides of your brake booster and clutch vacume assist are not leakig internally by just disconecting them and pluging the holes in the intake. vacume leaks can be sneaky little barstards! good luck! Regards, Mark.

Yep! get em. I have a set of pond cams and I gained 80rwhp 900 rpm earlier! after diling them in on dyno. but lost 5 hp at top after doing inlet, and actually got 10 more hp at the top after doing exaust, so I ended up gaining top end as well. Os Giken $300 a set. = bargin.

Ok, its just it wasnt doing it at all when the engine was stock, ecm, injectors, ams turbos, etc.... just will have to get stock bov's and give it a go. thanks again.

Ok, so do the stock BOV's recirculated all the time? just want to make sure this is going to solve my problem, as I dont have any stock BOV's. they gone when i bought the car, and will have to buy some to test it out. Also has any one heard of a GTR shuffleing during idle? thought base timing may have been out, but it is correct. Thanks for replys.

Hi every one, I have a 33 gtr with the usual mods for about 300-350 rwkw. * n1s * z32s * pond cams, gears * pfc * larger intake piping with twin pods * full exhaust * injectors (700cc), pump, rail, reg, etc. "keep in mind I done all of this in one go from an stock engine" My issue is a surge noise coming, (shuffling from pod top pod) from air filters). Now when I made the new intake piping, I did not put the link tube in between the two turbos, didn't think it was necessary but boy was I wrong! the thing wouldn't even idle, let a lone drive properly. any way I made a piece to link the two, behind the afms obviously. and the surging was removed and the car became drivable, did tune got over 300kw, driving quite well, other than that shuffle between the turbos (compressor surge at cruise). just wanting to try and get rid of it apparently a lot of gtrs have this problem when the things are opened up i.e., 80mm afms etc. Now I have heard a few things such as the original bovs actually recirculate slightly when a after market vent to atmosphere would normally be closed , if this is the case, I guess it would help as what I think is happening is the air is being forced against the closed, or almost closed throttle body at idle or cruise, and backing up through one turbo and then the other, so if the air at this point was vented to the intake side of the turbo instead of backing up to the outlet side I guess it would work. but then if the original bovs do recirculate all the time then how would it make boost?? I ask this as the car has those poxy supper sequential hks bovs on it, (not my doing they were on the car when I bought it.) Also I have heard that linking the two signal wires from the afms to the ecm so they read the same voltage also can have some effect, this sounds a little dodgy but have hear that they do that when running two afms on a large single set up. I do think it may be something to do with the afms double reading air as I know it was when I had no link pipe in the intake as you could see the afm voltages on the pfc. but now they are pretty close to the same. any feed back, opinions, experiences etc. on this would be appreciated as it pissing me off, especially at idle. Regards, Mark.

nope, I have switched the boost controler off.

Thanks tommyk I checked all the power and earth circuits to the ecm and they are all fine, all fuses werefine also, I have just run the negative side of the fuel pump to ground to get the car going and now the thing wont run properly it runs like it has a bad vacume leak but there isn't one. need try this ecm on another car to eliminate the ecm out of the equasion. fuel preasure is a stable 45psi , no leaks , compression good, cam timing good, ignition timing good, even tryed the afm wiring in different ways to see if that made any difference. cant work out why itsdoing it, starting to shit me bad.

I think im gonna just delete the FPCM circuit and have the pump running at full voltage all the time when switched by pin 18, I will run 4mm wire in stead of the 3mm already there, going from batery to the pump and then to ground. using the original relay and switching circuit. Dose any one see any problems with this except for the bit of extra fuel circulation at idle.

yes only 18 dose any thing that i can see any way, that is groud the fuel pump solinoid.

Thanks I have tested the pins 104 and 106 yesterday and they have no voltage at any stage, as I think this side of the power fc dose not work. do they ever on the r33 version?

ok thanks SK, would it be ok to use the FPCM with a larger pump? as the voltage requirements would be different I guess?. Also the pfc i have says on the hand controler the porg.ver. is RB 26 DETT, power fc ver 8.04A fc commander3 ver 5.01a. this all appears correct. and on the box it says nissan gtr bnr32/bcnr33 and on the paper work it says gtr33l020-1226. Dosn't this sound correct for an r33gtr v-spec?.

Ok, I just installed a power fc into my R33 GTR and it would not run the fuel pump, but put the stock ecm back in and bang the fuel pump runs again??? upon a great deal of head scratching and finally getting a wiring diagram i found that the fuel pump relay is negativly switched by the ecm. Which both ecm's were doing fine. what I then found is that the negative side of the fuel pump is also switched. this done by the fuel pump control modual, this is controled by what apears to be the ecm. the stock ecm puts the fuel pump to ground via the FPCM at the same time as the fuel pump solinoid is enigised. but the power fc dose not control the negative side of the pump at any stage. There for the circuit is not complete and the pump dose not work. To combat this I have directly grounded the negative side of the pump so when the soliniod is enigised the pump is on. This seems to work fine. Ok, the questions I have is: # what is the FPCM and why is it there? (dose it mesure current draw accross the pump as a safty mechanism for a failing pump, wouldn't a simple fuese do this?) #Is it Ok/safe to by pass it like I have? #why dose the stock ecm work with it and the power fc not? I will list mods I have just done from stock engine, just in case ive missed somthing (notice higher flowing fuel pump). *n1's *full exaust and dumps *pods *FMIC *z32 MAFS *pon cams *cam gears *700cc injectors *rail *regulator *sard 700hp intank direct replacment pump *Power FC And a pic of the wiring diagram for reference. Regards, Mark.

yeah, I just put a pair of bosch z32's on my r33 $370each with plugs at coventrys. easy to wire havn't done tune yet though.

OK, I got hold of the wiring diagram and realised that I did not undestand what the fuel pump controle modual is and did . I now know that it puts the negative side of the fuel pump to ground and when you bypass that and put it straight to ground the pump works correctly. What I dont understand is why it dose that (is it checking current draw as safty mechanism for a failing pump) and why the power fc dose not controle it correctly? and is it ok/safe to bypas it as I have. Im going to repost these questions in the main tech section as well. regards Mark.

Hi all, I have a problem with a brand new power fc, it wont energise the fuel pump solinoid and as a result the engine is starved of fuel. now i have put the stock ecm back in for now and have tested all the electrical circuits to do with the fuel pump, eccs relay and fuel pump controle modual and all apear fine. so I think the ecm is just not negativele switching the relay when it is suppose to. Now I have bought the pfc over east and before I start the whole shit fight of getting it replaced under warrenty, I want to make sure it is the ecm and not anything in the car. and want to try it in another car. The Problem is I dont know any one else with an r33gtr to try it in and most people with one wouldnt want some guy they dont know poking arroud swaping ecms over in it. So If there is anyone who could help me out with this. it would be greatly appreciated and you would be rewarded with a carton. , Mark.

Dont know the width of discs I will measure and post it up later, the reason I did turbos is that I did a lot of work on the engine, cams,injectors ect, so I wanted more flow and to run higher boost, so got manifolds and 2560rs, nothin wrong with old units, they are the originals from the r33 96, which make them 9 years with 75,000 ks. regards, Mark.